Keeping warm in the winter

[unsinkable]

I have an old house, drafty, old, snowy, NE winters plus lake effect...

And there is not a huge difference in our heating bills if we turn the furnace up a few degrees. And this was true even before we got a new furnace. 

Natural gas is pretty cheap so if people have that, 2 or 3 degrees can make a huge comfort difference for very little cost. I'd balance the cost of a monthly increase vs spending money on other heating sources (which aren't cheaper than gas).

JME 

[Moonhawk]

Thanks you guys, this is all super helpful!!

On 10/22/2019 at 11:12 PM, Tanaqui said:

3. Definitely run insulation around the doors. Use draft blockers at the foot of the exterior doors. We also hang heavy duty draft blocking curtains in front of the outside doors.

Just to make sure I'm imagining this correctly: do you have a curtain rod above your door, then hang a curtain in front of the door as if it was a window? 

On 10/23/2019 at 2:59 AM, Catwoman said:

Can you move?

No, moving is not possible at this point. I'm reminding myself that my nana lived in this house for ~40 years until she was 95, and it was her dream house (so, much better than what she had for most of her life). So, a brave face and whatever I can do to make it warmer seems to be my best bet 🙂 

 

I had someone else quoted but just deleted accidentally and can't find again, but some people have suggest merino wool and others have said smartwool. Are these the only two types of wool I should be considering? Or, is one good for blankets and the other better for socks?

[Pen]

1 hour ago, Moonhawk said:

Thanks you guys, this is all super helpful!!

Just to make sure I'm imagining this correctly: do you have a curtain rod above your door, then hang a curtain in front of the door as if it was a window? 

No, moving is not possible at this point. I'm reminding myself that my nana lived in this house for ~40 years until she was 95, and it was her dream house (so, much better than what she had for most of her life). So, a brave face and whatever I can do to make it warmer seems to be my best bet 🙂 

 

I had someone else quoted but just deleted accidentally and can't find again, but some people have suggest merino wool and others have said smartwool. Are these the only two types of wool I should be considering? Or, is one good for blankets and the other better for socks?

 

Smartwool is a brand name particularly for socks.

Merino is the type of sheep and generic name for the wool it produces which tends to have excellent warmth with less itch (it’s the only wool I am okay with against my skin), and also washes pretty well on cool. (But beware of berry bush thorns, cat claws, ... which are very destructive to it IME.)   Merino is Neither as expensive nor as soft as cashmere. More expensive and softer than other wools I know of. 

Other types of wool IMO are good for outer layers like sweaters.  If they don’t make you itch they could be against your skin too.  

Wool is good for insulation without getting damp or smelly from sweat the way polyester will.  I tend to use wool under layers and polyester fleece outer layers on top, as the polyester holds up to brambles and such better— and less expensively.   Wool under and jeans on top for pants.  I also have fleece pants which are warmer than jeans but I prefer jeans.  And a water proof parka for the very top

 

Do you know how Nana dressed and arranged things in winter? 

 

[bibiche]

Does your state have a weatherization assistance program? 

[Tanaqui]

Quote

Just to make sure I'm imagining this correctly: do you have a curtain rod above your door, then hang a curtain in front of the door as if it was a window? 

 

That would work. TBH, we just nailed it up, but this is because we forgot to get the curtain rod thingies and, frankly, we sometimes half-ass things around here.

[Pen]

Magnetic Doorway Curtain Fit Doors Up to 34"x82", IKSTAR EVA Insulted Door Cover for Exterior/Interior/Kitchen Doors with Draft Stopper, Kids/Pets Walk Through Free and Hands Free Closure https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MSJOHC9/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_SjvTDb6FMXWXG

[MEmama]

9 hours ago, Moonhawk said:

Just to make sure I'm imagining this correctly: do you have a curtain rod above your door, then hang a curtain in front of the door as if it was a window? 

I've used those retractable, spring loaded curtain rods in my doorways. They work fine if you aren’t hanging anything too heavy, and if you don’t need constant access to the door. On one door I just hung up small curtain rod holders and keep an insulated curtain hanging for the season. It’s easy to remove if necessary.

[MEmama]

On 10/23/2019 at 11:54 AM, unsinkable said:

I have an old house, drafty, old, snowy, NE winters plus lake effect...

And there is not a huge difference in our heating bills if we turn the furnace up a few degrees. And this was true even before we got a new furnace. 

Natural gas is pretty cheap so if people have that, 2 or 3 degrees can make a huge comfort difference for very little cost. I'd balance the cost of a monthly increase vs spending money on other heating sources (which aren't cheaper than gas).

JME 

Cheap natural gas is definitely regional. 

It doesn’t take much extra use for our bill to spike. We have a new system and a decently well insulated house, but gas is very, very expensive in our area (all heating options are). 

[BlsdMama]

I’d encourage DH to get moving on the repairs. At -5 with a house that lacks proper insulation, I would worry about pipes freezing and bursting!

Ever since this disease got rolling, I have a hard time staying warm at night. I get ridiculously cold and can’t do heavy blankets because then I can’t turn over in bed. (On the list of ridiculous things you never thought would be hard.) There have been nights when I literally can’t sleep until I feel warm enough. (It’s an internal thing, the house is usually set at 64 at night.)

My lifesaver? Girl, you need heated mattress pad covers. At Level H (right after Level 19) I can even emanate heat to HIS side of the bed. It is truly the best gift I’ve ever gotten. 

[Pen]

Weather Stripping for Door,Insulation Weatherproof Doors and Windows Soundproofing Seal Strip,Collision Avoidance Rubber Self-Adhesive Weatherstrip,2 Pack,Total 33Feet Long (White) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076Z9591D/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_tLATDbCDXSE2M

there are lots of things along these lines

[73349]

If you are looking at having to buy multiple sets of flannel sheets, wool blankets, wool socks, long johns, hats, etc., you might first price having an electrician get you to the point of being able to plug in an electric blanket per room as an alternative. It may be cost-competitive.

[Moonhawk]

17 hours ago, Pen said:

Do you know how Nana dressed and arranged things in winter? 

It is seeming like she baked/cooked during the day and froze at night. There were no curtain rods on the large windows, the curtains in bedrooms were thin, windows don't seal, etc. Maybe she slept sometimes in the room with the heater? But I think she just endured the cold more; there were a lot of crocheted blankets but nothing else you guys are describing for warmth.  

16 hours ago, bibiche said:

Does your state have a weatherization assistance program? 

I did not know this is a thing!! Thanks, it looks like we do. Will have to see how it works since we don't own the house, but this is awesome.

12 hours ago, Pen said:

Magnetic Doorway Curtain Fit Doors Up to 34"x82", IKSTAR EVA Insulted Door Cover for Exterior/Interior/Kitchen Doors with Draft Stopper, Kids/Pets Walk Through Free and Hands Free Closure https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MSJOHC9/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_SjvTDb6FMXWXG

Ahh, we have these as screen doors for during the summer to get a breeze through the door without the bugs. didn't know they had thick type as well, thanks. 

2 hours ago, whitehawk said:

If you are looking at having to buy multiple sets of flannel sheets, wool blankets, wool socks, long johns, hats, etc., you might first price having an electrician get you to the point of being able to plug in an electric blanket per room as an alternative. It may be cost-competitive.

Yeah, my Amazon cart is adding up 😳 But I found flannel sheets at Ross today and some wool socks, too, so hopefully I can just keep an eye out and gather things slowly before it gets too cold. But yeah, I should get an electrician anyway and see what's actually going on. But, some things should be done regardless, like the windows and flannel sheets, so I'll do the easy stuff now too. eta: Up to this point we've been fixing issues like plumbing, the mold, broken doors, sealing cracks, etc., and the electric got pushed to the side. And since we don't use the bedrooms during the day (and the summer it wasn't needed at night) it was easy to push aside. But now that we're at the point where the electric is an obstacle to daily living it should be moved up the list.

Edited October 27, 2019 by Moonhawk

[Anne]

I definitely think you should get an electrician in to see what’s actually going on!!

Anne

[Pen]

If it gets warm / sunny enough in day you might also get some passive solar to work for you— like black water barrels that sink solar heat in to them in day .(might be close to free if you have a solar gain window with space in front of it.   Our PNW climate is too grey, cold and wet for that to do much good, but it might work for you. 

Even sorts of things people use in greenhouses to reflect radiant heat in useful ways could help.

also consider a fleece vest to help warm main part of body up. 

Getting electric looked at for safety would probably be wise.  And maybe it’s better than you think and you could run one radiant space heater at a time to get a bedroom warm. 

A beeswax candle in a pottery vase — so that the pottery holds the heat for awhile after candle is out— can also help. We have done that in power outages .  Have to watch it for fire safety of course 

 

[SquirrellyMama]

On 10/22/2019 at 6:42 PM, Pen said:

Down sleeping bag and or down comforter and a bed dog co sleeper or two or three.  

Thermal blackout curtains 

We often have 2-3 cats and 2 dogs in our bed with us. They are very warm.

Kelly

[Pen]

7 minutes ago, SquirrellyMama said:

We often have 2-3 cats and 2 dogs in our bed with us. They are very warm.

Kelly

 

Definitely!  Probably part of the bond.  Cats are even warmer than dogs, but only one of my cats has ever been cooperative about sleep habits. 

[prairiewindmomma]

I grew up in an old drafty farmhouse...the kind with such old windows that snow blew in onto the window sills.

If there is a wood stove, you can heat bricks on the top and wrap them in flannel to warm your bed. Hot water bottles do the same. You want to dress in layers—wool socks + long underwear + sweats + hat. Flannel sheets and a down duvet. At that point, you could probably sleep with the heat turned off in the house (though at 20F your pipes may be at risk).

During the day, as others mentioned, blow drying your hair, layers again, drinking warm drinks, fingerless gloves. Columbia sells really nice insulated vests you can layer under fleece. My skinny kids live in their vests in the winter.

Our best weatherization tools have been spray foam, caulk, and adhesive foam strips.

[gardenmom5]

On 10/22/2019 at 5:33 PM, PrincessMommy said:

 

I've struggled more with cold in recent years and if I get chilled it is hard for me to warm up again without help - such as a hot bath or heating blanket.  Even comforters and thick pjs is not enough when this happens to me. 

wool socks at night.  There is such a huge difference between cotton and wool.

 

have you had your thyroid checked?  it can go lower/hypo with age.  that will make you feel colder, and have a harder time warming up.

On 10/22/2019 at 5:37 PM, J-rap said:

, wearing socks surprisingly helps me feel warm all over.  (Otherwise I have especially cold feet during the first part of the night, and that makes me feel cold all over.)

 

feet have a large surface area for their size - so you lose A LOT of heat from your feet (and then cold blood is in your returning circulation system - cooling you off)  your hands, and your head.  Just covering them with something warm, will go a long way to keeping the rest of you warm.

 

On 10/22/2019 at 6:20 PM, Margaret in CO said:

Don't be lazy and not change socks or you'll be cold all night. And do a lot of baking and run the oven... 

don't wear the cotton shirts/thermals to bed that you've been wearing all day either. - perspiration is still "wet".  cotton takes 4x as long to dry as synthetics.  so, if you're wearing cotton thermals - put on dry ones when you go to bed.  (when my girls were in upstate NY - I got the both quality synthetic LU.  not polypropylene.)

my friend's dd got hypothermia from going to bed in some damp cotton she'd been wearing during the day on a river trip - so, NOT "freezing". (they think she was already hypothermic when she climbed in her sleeping bag, and not thinking clearly.).  the dad was awoken abruptly during the night, with an urgent feeling that he needed to check on her.  she was unconscious.

my dsil's cousin, was at the point on an Everest climb where it was just a "hike" to the summit.  that "little voice" - told him he would make the summit, but he wouldn't make it back down - or he could just go down now without successfully summiting and return to his family .  the reason - his socks were wet.  

*he successfully summited on a successive expedition.

On 10/22/2019 at 8:40 PM, Margaret in CO said:

Because dh won't get it fixed! He went off to a week in VT to see dd when the cold snap hit. Two nights of -5, and several of zero. "Why don't you turn on the furnace?" "Because you KNOW something will go wrong. It always does." So, he gets home and announces that he's lit the furnace. Only, news flash! It doesn't work! He messes around until it's 5:00 and calls someone. That person doesn't call back. He finally calls said person at 4:00 the next day. Said person doesn't have part. Calls person back at 5:00 the next day, only now it's the weekend. Part is not ordered. Part finally ordered on Monday. Part comes in Wednesday. Dh doesn't look at part until 4:30. Wrong part--wrong thread. Nothing happens until 5:00 the next day. We can't get an actual furnace guy out until after Thanksgiving! Part in. Something else messes up. Nothing done until 6:00 this evening, when low and behold, the voltage regulator thingie isn't working. It's all my fault. "It's not that cold!" Yeah, right, you haven't been here. So, he gets out a plug-in heater. It trips the breaker. "You just plugged it in wrong." Right. All my fault. So, the upshot is, we still don't have heat. We're still getting down to 15 degrees at night. Did I mention we've had two blizzards through all this????

Have you thought about staying in a hotel until he get's your furnace fixed?  - let him deal with it now.

 

OP for supplementary cheap heat that requires zero electricity, terracotta pots, and a candle.   there are very specific ways to put them together.  the terracotta heats up just from the candle, and will hold heat.  be sure and take care kids/pets won't knock it over.  I'd also blow the candle out at night.

(I want to get some for backup with power outages. - we've had three times when we've lost power for a week.  in the winter.  twice during snow storms.  in the MIDDLE of a city! - we're on a little side street, so we're way down the list for repairs.)

[gardenmom5]

one thing about slippers - make sure the sole is thick enough.  floors are cold, and the cold will go through the bottom of thin soled slippers.

I have sheepskin scuffs - full slippers are too warm.  if it's that cold, I'll just put on a pair of my sheepskin boots.  all of the above from Costco, good quality, real sheepskin fleece - and warm.  and cheap.

[J-rap]

15 hours ago, whitehawk said:

If you are looking at having to buy multiple sets of flannel sheets, wool blankets, wool socks, long johns, hats, etc., you might first price having an electrician get you to the point of being able to plug in an electric blanket per room as an alternative. It may be cost-competitive.

I was just coming on here to say the same thing.  We had an old drafty house with fuel oil.  We turned the heat way down at night and bought electric mattress pads or electric blankets for everyone.  It kept us all toasty warm.

[J-rap]

I just thought of another thing I used to do in our drafty 100+ year-old home during a northern state winter::

I'd take a hot bath before I went to bed.  Going to sleep already feeling warm and toasty made a huge difference.  If I went to sleep already cold, it would sometimes take me half the night to warm up!  (Although our electric mattress pads helped a lot with that.)

[RootAnn]

On 10/22/2019 at 5:25 PM, Moonhawk said:

Electric blankets are a no go as well.  

Those of you suggesting electric blankets maybe missed this in the OP. So, a 'not yet' situation until the electrician can work on things.

[PrincessMommy]

@gardenmom5 - yes.  I was dx with Hashimotos many years ago.  They always say my bloodwork is in the "normal" range, but I'm always cold, and sleepy,  losing hair, and 10+lbs overweight, etc. etc.  

[gardenmom5]

8 minutes ago, PrincessMommy said:

@gardenmom5 - yes.  I was dx with Hashimotos many years ago.  They always say my bloodwork is in the "normal" range, but I'm always cold, and sleepy,  losing hair, and 10+lbs overweight, etc. etc.  

define "normal".   "normal" range numbers - includes people with hypothyroidism.  so it's higher than it should be.

you want to see *optimal* numbers.

https://hypothyroidmom.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/07/Dr.-Borenstein-optimal-TSH-Free-T4-Free-T3.jpg

 

incidentally - hashi's is an autoimmune disorder where the person's antibodies are attacking the thyroid.   so, you probably are lower, but allopathic medicine's treatment of thyroid leaves many hypothyroid.

my ND put me on a mineral complex as well as NDT, and I've actually had to lower my NDT since I started to not be hyper.

eta: and you want Free t3 and Free T4 #'s as well - NOT "just" the TSH.

Edited October 28, 2019 by gardenmom5

[Liz CA]

Can you get a small wood stove? I wanted to suggest a pellet stove but that takes electricity. 

Otherwise:

Down comforters - IKEA's don't cost a fortune

leggings / long johns

tops that cover down to hips (I have to have my back covered for some reason) layer a thinner long sleeved shirt and put a bigger sweater on over it

Fuzzy socks

Hot water bottles (more than one 🙂 )

Flannel sheets

[unsinkable]

20 hours ago, whitehawk said:

If you are looking at having to buy multiple sets of flannel sheets, wool blankets, wool socks, long johns, hats, etc., you might first price having an electrician get you to the point of being able to plug in an electric blanket per room as an alternative. It may be cost-competitive.

Agree, plus it sounds like a safety issue IMO, if you can't plug in <<<fill in the blank>>>

I understand when money just isn't there, but if the electricity is so unstable I would be putting every dime towards making the electrical safe before I spent anything on weatherizing, blankets, clothes, alternative heating. For those things, I'd go to family, friends, resources for struggling families, etc and get donations.

HEre, the gas & electric companies also have grants to help with bills.

[Pen]

20 hours ago, Moonhawk said:

It is seeming like she baked/cooked during the day and froze at night. There were no curtain rods on the large windows, the curtains in bedrooms were thin, windows don't seal, etc. Maybe she slept sometimes in the room with the heater? But I think she just endured the cold more; there were a lot of crocheted blankets but nothing else you guys are describing for warmth.  

 

Maybe she was acclimated to it.  Like when people who live in the cold parts of Canada head into parts of USA and are comfortable in short sleeve T-shirts while the locals in the farther south place are wearingdown or thinsulate parkas!  Otherwise I would think she might have at least had heavier curtains.  

Or is it possible that the house doesn’t drop temperature as much as you expect it to and does have good solar gain?

then too cold is supposed to release natural endocannabinoids🙂 - do maybe the cold was more invigorating for her thN unpleasantness  (on a cellphone and having some troubles typing)

 

 

Quote

Ahh, we have these as screen doors for during the summer to get a breeze through the door without the bugs. didn't know they had thick type as well, thanks. 

 

I’ll be

trying those myself for the first time this year. Hope it’s going to help as my ds rushes out to bus leaving door open.  Or for myself too trying to get in groceries and such.

 

For us it’s expected to go into 20’s tonight.  Not first time below freezing for year, but first time where I need to deal with water systems. 

 Some things I am doing include removing hoses from yard faucets and covering the hydrants with bubble wrap, black plastic bags etc.. (whatever I’ve got— not something special... I keep Amazon bubble wrap mailers and utilize them, duct tape etc).

 alas the door to the pump house broke so I’ve got to do something about that.  Probably will use some greenhouse cloche type plastic... then maybe one of those plastic magnet doors instead of trying to repair the plywood door that I don’t like anyway.  

 

  

 

[Lucy the Valiant]

On 10/23/2019 at 11:42 AM, Arctic Mama said:

These work AMAZINGLY well.  I use an old sock that is missing its mate.

 

Yep, we do the same! We have made them from old socks, but now we all have "fancy" ones made from flannel / cotton fabric: just sew a small pillow, fill it 1/2 with cheap rice, and sew it shut. We occasionally add a drop or two of scented oil just for fun. An added bonus when the kids were small was that they would hold their feet on the hot rice socks at night, and keep really still, which made them fall asleep REALLY fast, haha! We have taken these in the car before, too. 

Once you GET warm, it's easier to KEEP warm. 

 

[Jyhwkmama]

Have you tried using fans to move around the heat from the heaters you do have?

[barnwife]

13 hours ago, RootAnn said:

Those of you suggesting electric blankets maybe missed this in the OP. So, a 'not yet' situation until the electrician can work on things.

 Look at the watt rating on an electric blanket, even the high setting will be a fraction of the wattage of an electric heater on low.  Speaking of electricity, it's not hard at all to inspect an electrical system to see what you have.  If it's unsafe, it should be off/removed.  If it's safe, then electric blankets are one of the least possible problems.  Look at the type of wire, (romex vs knob and tube) the gauge of the wire, and if the gauge matches the circuit breaker/fuse rating.  There's nothing unsafe about fuses or knob and tube if they were installed and maintained correctly.  Then determine which outlets are on the same circuit, don't ever plug two room heaters into the same circuit.  Three electric blankets on a circuit is fine on any halfway safe circuit.  Room heaters draw lots of power, so they're not good to be plugged in.  Even hardwired on their own circuit (baseboard etc.) they're still too high a fire hazard in my mind, but much better than plug in, candles, kerosene etc.  Carbon Monoxide is CO,  Al Gore is concerned about CO2. 

Kerosene is not a good fuel to be burning indoors unvented, this isn't the 50's (1850's).  Like was mentioned already, gas is your cheapest fuel if you already pay a gas bill (natural gas, that is, you didn't say propane, but that's possible, propane is still much cheaper than any kerosene pump I've seen). Use those heaters as much as possible, and any fans that are needed to move the hot air. Don't fall for any gimmick that claims higher efficiency for an electric heater, there are lots of them out there.  Unless, the heat is going closer to the body like a blanket, socks, coat etc. 

If it's zero outside and the house is as drafty as it seems, a dehumidifier will just be a loud heater, and you don't want electric heaters already.  Dryer air is COLDER, just like in the summer, dry heat feels cooler than humid heat, dry cold air feels colder than more humid cold air, and you WILL BE cooler because you're made of water with a permeable skin. 

Seal the ceiling first and best.  You feel the drafts at the floor and in the windows because that is cold air coming in.  The warm air is going out the ceiling, through holes you can't see, and will never feel.  The most effective action in 99% of drafty houses in heating climates is to go into the attic in a disposable tyvek suit, with expanding foam great stuff/fill and seal, and pull back the insulation and fill every crack, hole, joint, etc.  If the ceiling is plaster, cover it with plastic, foam the plastic seams and edges to the framing, then insulate on top.  Blown in cellulose is cheap, and easy, but MESSY.  If the walls are open, balloon framed, insulate them also, if they're closed, don't bother insulating, just seal the top plate. 

[Moonhawk]

On 10/28/2019 at 8:15 AM, unsinkable said:

Agree, plus it sounds like a safety issue IMO, if you can't plug in <<<fill in the blank>>>

Well, the good thing is half of the house was rewired in the 00's, so that it could support the washing machine. So it's only the bedrooms that need to be looked at. 

On 10/28/2019 at 10:42 AM, Pen said:

Or is it possible that the house doesn’t drop temperature as much as you expect it to and does have good solar gain?

For us it’s expected to go into 20’s tonight.  Not first time below freezing for year, but first time where I need to deal with water systems. 

 Some things I am doing include removing hoses from yard faucets and covering the hydrants with bubble wrap, black plastic bags etc.. (whatever I’ve got— not something special... I keep Amazon bubble wrap mailers and utilize them, duct tape etc).

The house is already going down pretty cold if it's cold outside. It doesn't seem to retain heat very well.

So you only have to do the water drip thing when it's in the 20s, not 32? And, why remove hoses from yard faucets? I've wrapped the yard faucets with old towels, plus they had some insulation already. Are hoses an issue? 

On 10/28/2019 at 4:11 PM, Jyhwkmama said:

Have you tried using fans to move around the heat from the heaters you do have?

No, we haven't turned on the heaters yet, but I'll try this out when we do. 

22 hours ago, barnwife said:

Seal the ceiling first and best.  You feel the drafts at the floor and in the windows because that is cold air coming in.  The warm air is going out the ceiling, through holes you can't see, and will never feel.  

So, I don't actually know how to get into the attic area of the house; I know there has to be space up there since the roof it slanted, but I don't see any openings into there from the house. Can I insulate the ceiling from the house side? Like, putting heavy fabric along the ceiling, or something? I couldn't do it for every room, but maybe down the hallway and in the school room if it would actually help.

 

Okay, and I was looking for the thermal underclothes people have mentioned, and I saw both"thermal underwear"  and "performance baselayers" .   I'm wondering if one would be better than the other for layering? Or, do these function basically the same?

[Pen]

8 minutes ago, Moonhawk said:

Well, the good thing is half of the house was rewired in the 00's, so that it could support the washing machine. So it's only the bedrooms that need to be looked at. 

The house is already going down pretty cold if it's cold outside. It doesn't seem to retain heat very well.

 

Try to determine why — the why will be relevant to what you decide to do.   

Our house isn’t insulated, and I was advised to be cautious about doing so as it can cause other troubles like mold.  It tends to get cold from actual gaps that let cold air and wind in.  And glass windows areas.  The double layer of wall with wood inside and wood outside separated by air takes quite a long time to get cold.  Different materials will be different (brick, Adobe,  single wood and plaster...) 

Feel around early in the morning or late night for what’s cold .  Feel a window.  Feel for cracks letting in air.  

At least in our house that’s what’s really cold.  

The hanging plastic door cover with magnet close came and went up today.  I have mixed feelings.  It is certainly better than a gale coming in, but doesn’t self close with the magnets very well.   I saw one billed as having extra strong magnets - that might have been better? 

8 minutes ago, Moonhawk said:

So you only have to do the water drip thing when it's in the 20s, not 32?

 I don’t at 32 because the house doesn’t go down to 32 and most of the piping is underground with soil being an insulator.   I have a light bulb to shine at one spot by the pressure tank which is outside in an unheated outbuilding and I know tends to freeze right there.

 

8 minutes ago, Moonhawk said:

And, why remove hoses from yard faucets? I've wrapped the yard faucets with old towels, plus they had some insulation already. Are hoses an issue? 

 

I have one yard hydrant of a style that stops the water below ground and doesn’t tend to freeze. It has a pretty durBle metal hose that I leave on. 

Tje ones that have water up a metal pipe to a hand turn know do tend to freeze.  I take hoses off both to help protect the hoses over winter, but also because I cannot wrap and insulate the yard pipe well enough with hose on.   

Mine is wearing bubble wrap, some insulated bags that were past good use for shopping. A black plastic garbage bag (to help absorb day heat) and some styrofoam...

We have a lot of moisture up here, so towels wouldn’t work well, but if they’d stay dry that might help.  

8 minutes ago, Moonhawk said:

No, we haven't turned on the heaters yet, but I'll try this out when we do. 

So, I don't actually know how to get into the attic area of the house; I know there has to be space up there since the roof it slanted, but I don't see any openings into there from the house. Can I insulate the ceiling from the house side? Like, putting heavy fabric along the ceiling, or something? I couldn't do it for every room, but maybe down the hallway and in the school room if it would actually help.

 

Yes.  Same concept as tapestries on walls in old European buildings.

I would probably use Reflectix or similar radiant reflective plus insulating layer. And lightweight so easier to get up. 

8 minutes ago, Moonhawk said:

Okay, and I was looking for the thermal underclothes people have mentioned, and I saw both"thermal underwear"  and "performance baselayers" .   I'm wondering if one would be better than the other for layering? Or, do these function basically the same?

I’ll return with opinion after clicking your links😉

[barnwife]

Remove hoses from the faucet so the faucet can drain, they won't burst on their own because they're flexible.  There are freezeproof faucets that drain on their own, just compare what you have to some pics online.  if they're not self draining, they should have a valve and drain inside the house so you don't have to cover them outside.  Leaving water drip is mostly for houses with problems, like plumbing in outside walls, unheated drafty basements, vented crawlspaces, pipes not buried deep enough, exceptional cold spells, etc.  The former residents or owners should know what you'd need to let drip and when. 

I was talking about SEALING against air leakage.  Insulating (as in stopping conduction) is a distant second priority.  The attic and ceiling are most important because that's typically where it's easiest to accomplish.  You FEEL the cold coming in the windows, but if you put in perfect new windows, that air will come up through the floor and out the ceiling just as easily.  The floor is difficult to seal, and if you did, cold air would still come down from the ceiling at the same time warm air goes out different spots in the ceiling.  So sealing the ceiling is the first priority.  Insulating anything is much less effective.  Except your toes of course!

 

 

[Pen]

For child use indoors (dry conditions) I tended to use organic cotton long John’s (without flame retardant) for general health safety day in day out. 

such as : https://www.hannaandersson.com/pajamas-kids/51571-015.html (on sale $28) though ours were from a different company.  Several sets that got washed and worn as long John’s , lounging /homeschooling clothes and pajamas all through the cold seasons. 

We also had one yearly set of non cotton (synthetic) long John’s for kids for conditions where cotton could be a danger (doesn’t retain heat when wet) . 

 

This type of thing, bottoms and tops: https://www.llbean.com/llb/shop/43218?page=

If I caught a good sale I’d get some ahead to grow into too. 

I don’t find Merino wool too itchy but children often do. 

[Pen]

Can your bedrooms handle incandescent 75watt bulbs in lamps?  If so, maybe non light emitting 75 watt radiant reptile or terrarium ceramic heat bulbs could be used. 

[Pen]

Another useful tool is an indoor thermometer, (especially one that will record the overnight low..). but even just seeing the actual temperature when things feel cold.

This morning where I am it was about 25F deg outside. 62F degrees inside main floor before turning on stove and heater. It felt chilly, especially compared to warmth of bed, but was far from actually freezing cold indoors.  

This is old, uninsulated, single pane windows type house.  

Since turning on the heat, the bathroom, which is very small and heats easily has come up to about 68-70 which makes getting ready for school etc easier.  People and pets sometimes just go into the bathroom to get warm.  

But each house is different.  Even tract houses with many identical plans can be different due to microclimates, orientation to sun, and how they are used .  

I’ll be continuing to prep for winter weather  today . 

Another help can be weather tape not actually closing things but extending over openings.  That way door or window can be opened still, but wind is cut down a lot.   Here’s our very old not posh farmhouse style, but genuine old farm cottage door. With weather tape over old skeleton keyhole and along the edge of the door extending over the crack. 

 

 

Edited November 1, 2019 by Pen

[Pen]

This is the company whose organic cotton long John’s etc we actually used. They used to have all the way up to adult sizes.  But I think now only go up to little kid sizes.  They were excellent l, held up to rough kid use, and didn’t itch or scratch:

https://underthenile.com/products/lap-shoulder-shirt-and-knee-patch-pant-set-twilight-planes

[Arctic Bunny]

As I crawled into bed at 4 this morning, I thought of the best way to deal with a cold bed. Let DH get a couple hours head start, then nudge him back to his side and revel in the lovely pocket of heat he leaves behind!

[Pen]

Any other options?  Woodstove?  Electric hot water?

[Pen]

22 minutes ago, Margaret in CO said:

That would require actually cleaning the chimney so as to not have a chimney fire... 

 

Do you have chimney sweeps in your area?   

Here that’s way less involved than digging up driveways etc.  

[Pen]

@Margaret in CO have you got any form of heat at all currently besides bedding down with the cattle?

[ElizabethB]

On 10/22/2019 at 5:40 PM, Æthelthryth the Texan said:

Confession of a Southern Girl who has never lived anywhere but south/southeast TX-- Until this thread I thought the historical type books where people wore caps to bed was some sort of fashion convention like powdered wigs, or something to do with protecting hair styles. It had never occurred to me that they were for warmth until this thread. 😂😂 I'm reading this and like "oh that makes so much more sense!!" 😂😂

My son was born in Alabama and we most recently lived in Texas before moving to a semi-cold place here, he is on your wavelength.

We're reading about the Middle Ages, there was a line about castles being dark and damp, I told my son that that was the reason for the bed post beds, that they hung fabric all around to keep heat in the bed area and also warmed bricks to keep their feet warm.  He said, "Oh, I thought they were to just look fancy." 😂😂

Edited November 1, 2019 by ElizabethB

[ElizabethB]

On 10/22/2019 at 10:51 PM, Pen said:

I find bathing in middle part of day (so as not to have damp hair at bedtime) and oiling my skin after (like with sesame, olive, or coconut oil) helps with keeping warmer. 

 

And a type of long john from llbean both as under clothes and pajamas that combined merino wool with some cotton and nylon were great but I discovered they were discontinued.  I’m looking for a substitute.  

I am allergic to a lot of stuff and can't tolerate wool, silk is something I can tolerate, silk long johns are surprisingly warm,  very comfy. 

https://appleseeds.blair.com/p/75792.uts?productVariantId=1848659&src_code=WWWFEED3&cid=pl_ap_google_pla_gen&scid=scplp8636212&sc_intid=8636212&gclsrc=aw.ds&&gclid=Cj0KCQjwjOrtBRCcARIsAEq4rW6MSjFvbUUkng8orA9ZdvYGwuqX2MDm4g5vD6sPjr43_qDz1U8E6MIaAkzjEALw_wcB