Jump to content

Menu

DH says I can paint the kitchen cabinets!


ktgrok
 Share

Recommended Posts

35 minutes ago, Tap said:

The base may be different, so they don't have a premade formula match

They can probably do a close match from a paint sample ie You buy a sample, and put the paint on something, then bring it back and the computer analyzes it, giving a very close approximation.  It may not be exactly what you want,  close enough, but not identical.

I'd think they could even scan the color swatch?

I know they can do Sherwin Williams colors in the BM paint, so not sure why not Magnolia ones. But we will see. 

the big sample I painted looks green in some lights, and more blue in others, which is I think my DH likes it. It's really pretty. Excuse cake baking mess 

AE0F9570-A610-4860-9A60-968E3F92E9D9.jpeg

Edited by ktgrok
  • Like 5
Link to comment
Share on other sites

9 minutes ago, ktgrok said:

I'd think they could even scan the color swatch?

I know they can do Sherwin Williams colors in the BM paint, so not sure why not Magnolia ones. But we will see. 

the big sample I painted looks green in some lights, and more blue in others, which is I think my DH likes it. It's really pretty. Excuse cake baking mess 

AE0F9570-A610-4860-9A60-968E3F92E9D9.jpeg

I like that color. I actually like it with that wood color, which isn’t really helpful. I expect it will look lighter when on all the cabinets. 
 

As far as matching, I had a Home Depot paint tinted with a Benjamin Moore color and was surprised when I found I no longer liked the color as much. When I compared it back to the original paint chip, the undertones were notably different. So if you decide to have a color match done that way, I would swatch again with the new base to make sure you still like it.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 minute ago, KSera said:

I like that color. I actually like it with that wood color, which isn’t really helpful. I expect it will look lighter when on all the cabinets. 
 

As far as matching, I had a Home Depot paint tinted with a Benjamin Moore color and was surprised when I found I no longer liked the color as much. When I compared it back to the original paint chip, the undertones were notably different. So if you decide to have a color match done that way, I would swatch again with the new base to make sure you still like it.

Yup - that's why I wanted to do the sample in Benjamin Moore sample pots, so I'd see how they "interpret it" with their colorings and such. But, I have a feeling if I go back and deal with the other person I normally get I'll be fine. Or will just use the dang Magnolia Homes acrylic one. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, prairiewindmomma said:

I love that color; it reminds me of Sherwin Williams Comfort Grey, which is one down the chip from Sea Salt.

I, personally, am looking at painting my cabinets Sherwin Williams Rosemary. We are having to push off our remodel a few years and the finish is so worn and damaged. 

It's probably closer to tne next darkest, oyster bay I think it is called. Both that and local greenhouse have LRV numbers of 44. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

9 hours ago, ktgrok said:

I'd think they could even scan the color swatch?

I know they can do Sherwin Williams colors in the BM paint, so not sure why not Magnolia ones. But we will see. 

the big sample I painted looks green in some lights, and more blue in others, which is I think my DH likes it. It's really pretty. Excuse cake baking mess 

AE0F9570-A610-4860-9A60-968E3F92E9D9.jpeg

What direction does the light come in your windows? 

Northern light has cooler colors/undertones, so the natural lighting will have more of a blue cast to it. This can change any paint color to have a slight blue tone to it. A green paint can still look green, but it would be like adding a tiny bit of blue paint to it. This can be magnified by a porch, which makes the light come in the window/slider at a more horizontal level. Which makes the color slightly darker or the equivalent of adding a tiny bit of grey to it.

Southern windows have light with a warmer feel and often has a yellow cast to it. It can make a blue shift slightly to the green side. A window with an overhang, will make it seem darker, and the equivalent of adding a tiny bit of grey-brown to it. 

If it is dark outside, the light bulbs have the greatest influence, but also the reflected light from floors/walls/ceilings matter. 

Mixed direction lighting (like a room that gets both North/South lights at different times of day) really complicates this effect, so I suggest going with the color that you like the best when you spend the most time in the room. 

 

Based on some choices you mentioned before.

A color that you might like is Sea Haze by Benjamin Moore It is a green that has a nice complement of undertones, so it can go a bit more to the green or blue side, but still stay green. The kitchen picture below says it is Sea Haze by SW, but I think the picture is mislabeled. It is either Sea Salt by SW or Sea Haze by BM. They are very similar. It also works really well with colors in the brown family. (see the flooring in the attached picture). From your pictures, I can't tell if you flooring/counters have a peachy tone to them, or more brown. 

cfe44e980d4fed8dec975787f53d38db.jpgd491a32b0f91aa76_0532-w500-h400-b0-p0--t

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

4 hours ago, Tap said:

What direction does the light come in your windows? 

Northern light has cooler colors/undertones, so the natural lighting will have more of a blue cast to it. This can change any paint color to have a slight blue tone to it. A green paint can still look green, but it would be like adding a tiny bit of blue paint to it. This can be magnified by a porch, which makes the light come in the window/slider at a more horizontal level. Which makes the color slightly darker or the equivalent of adding a tiny bit of grey to it.

Southern windows have light with a warmer feel and often has a yellow cast to it. It can make a blue shift slightly to the green side. A window with an overhang, will make it seem darker, and the equivalent of adding a tiny bit of grey-brown to it. 

If it is dark outside, the light bulbs have the greatest influence, but also the reflected light from floors/walls/ceilings matter. 

Mixed direction lighting (like a room that gets both North/South lights at different times of day) really complicates this effect, so I suggest going with the color that you like the best when you spend the most time in the room. 

 

Based on some choices you mentioned before.

A color that you might like is Sea Haze by Benjamin Moore It is a green that has a nice complement of undertones, so it can go a bit more to the green or blue side, but still stay green. The kitchen picture below says it is Sea Haze by SW, but I think the picture is mislabeled. It is either Sea Salt by SW or Sea Haze by BM. They are very similar. It also works really well with colors in the brown family. (see the flooring in the attached picture). From your pictures, I can't tell if you flooring/counters have a peachy tone to them, or more brown. 

cfe44e980d4fed8dec975787f53d38db.jpgd491a32b0f91aa76_0532-w500-h400-b0-p0--t

First, I am drooling over that color as a wall color!!! Man, I love it with the white cabinets - but DH is a NO on white cabinets still I think so settling for pretty color cabinets. I will check that color in swatches today if I can justify swinging by Ace again. (My new favorite store - LOVE the place)

As for light, there is a sliding glass door that faces East (well, probably East South East). The family room has more windows, some on that same wall of ESE and some on the North or NNE. There is not a ton of light from that side as that faces the side yard with a 6ft privacy fence and then the neighbor's two story house. The small archway in the kitchen goes to the dining/living room, which has windows on the opposite walls, with the closer big window just on the other side of the arch being south westish, and the living room windows which have a covered porch beyond them facing westish. 

So most direct light is morning, but gets decent light throughout the day, and has daylight bulbs. 

Things tend to look less green and more blue in my kitchen, from what i can tell from looking at swatches in the store, then in my house. That also means that some of the sage type greens I like end up looking just sort of brownish grey instead of green at various times of the day. 

 

Edited by ktgrok
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 4/9/2022 at 9:51 AM, ktgrok said:

It's been a whole 8 minutes since I posted the new color - what are y'all waiting for?!?! It's my birthday, good day to get DH to give in and let me choose green ...but I need Hive help. 

Happy belated birthday!  And I love the green.  I have been banned from making anything else green since we have "too much green" in the house.  

Edited by KungFuPanda
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...
22 minutes ago, mommyoffive said:

I woke up thinking about your cabinets.  Did you paint them yet?

LOL, no. In the past month I've had the toenail ripp partway off and have to be removed surgically, had a bug removed from my ear, and had two bouts of severe "sinus infection" that I found out yesterday was actually an abcessed tooth! Ended up with an emergency dentist visit yesterday and walked out with a root canal and a new antibiotic script to take every 6 hours. Basically, tooth went supernova in my face - and that, not a sinus infection - is what caused the sinus pain and pressure - tooth root was right by the sinus cavity/lining. 

Really hoping this takes care of it and I can get to the cabinets soon. 

Still sort of want to convince DH to just let me do them white though...

  • Sad 8
Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 minute ago, ktgrok said:

LOL, no. In the past month I've had the toenail ripp partway off and have to be removed surgically, had a bug removed from my ear, and had two bouts of severe "sinus infection" that I found out yesterday was actually an abcessed tooth! Ended up with an emergency dentist visit yesterday and walked out with a root canal and a new antibiotic script to take every 6 hours. Basically, tooth went supernova in my face - and that, not a sinus infection - is what caused the sinus pain and pressure - tooth root was right by the sinus cavity/lining. 

Really hoping this takes care of it and I can get to the cabinets soon. 

Still sort of want to convince DH to just let me do them white though...

Oh my gosh, that is so much medical things in one month.  I hope you can just relax this weekend and recover from all of that.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

8 minutes ago, mommyoffive said:

Oh my gosh, that is so much medical things in one month.  I hope you can just relax this weekend and recover from all of that.

Well, we are petsitting my sister's toy poodle, and she an my cats can't figure out what each other are, but yeah, hopefully! Sort of laying around right now. Will try to catch up on a bit of housework, maybe paint an end table. 

Dr. said the infection would have one last hurrah after he did the root canal, since he angered it all, and then in about 48 hours antibiotics should kick in and get rid of the last of it. Hoping so. At least it explains why my normal sinus remedies were not working! And why I felt so crappy - I've had a raging infection in my head for weeks now!

  • Sad 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, mommyoffive said:

I woke up thinking about your cabinets.  Did you paint them yet?

I was wondering about them last night and was going to go looking for this thread. Thanks for bumping! I’m sorry about all the medical issues lately, Katie, and I hope your tooth pain resolves quickly now that it’s treated. 

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, KSera said:

I was wondering about them last night and was going to go looking for this thread. Thanks for bumping! I’m sorry about all the medical issues lately, Katie, and I hope your tooth pain resolves quickly now that it’s treated. 

The tooth never really hurt! Just my face, where the root and my sinuses are. So weird!!

2 hours ago, Ali in OR said:

I've had the opposite--had the pain I thought was something dental and the dentist's x-rays said no, not teeth--sinus infection. Hope you get some relief soon.

I have had that too- that was the worst tooth pain ever!!! Worse than an actual infected tooth!!! Happened on thanksgiving and I couldn’t eat anything because it hurt so bad to chew, lol

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

28 minutes ago, Katy said:

I had that too.  It was awful.  I hope you feel better soon.

Thank you, I'm still a bit fatigued, but that could be from my elderly border collie waking me u at 3am (at which point I took an antibiotic, as I'm supposed to take them every 6 hours, which means at least once during sleeping time!) and then again at 5:45, then continued to keep me up until after 7am, at which point I fell asleep on the couch for about an hour. 

I can breathe through my nose again though! At this point it I have some mild tenderness in that area on my face, but MUCH better, and instead of constant runny nose it is the final dregs of thick stuff - I'm guessing this is the stuff that got stuck up there from all the swelling/inflammation and is finally able to get out. But I'm now hacking like I have a hairball, lol. Going to take a mucinex to try to thin it out to make it easier. 

Also the clindamycin gives me a weird taste in my mouth - I guess that's typical. Sort of irritates my stomach, taking it with food helps. And I know this is one of the antibiotics that is known to cause C-Diff so taking florastor and eating yogurt 1-2 times a day. 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

So...does anyone think I should convince DH to do white, instead of the greenish color? I'd actually like a warm grey I think,as an alternative, but with the tile not sure that would work. DEFINITELY wouldn't work with the counters, but we talked about painting/recovering (people use contact paper!) or putting a new formica layer on them. 

I wish I could get a ecent hoto fo the tile, but it never comes out right in photos. 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

White is classic and doesn't go out of style.  I'd do that if you're so inclined.

Don't take the probiotics until the antibiotic course is over. I thought it was a myth that they compete but I read some study on science daily years ago that someone tested it and it makes antibiotics less effective.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Oh, I did try out another brand of paint - the Magnolia Homes cabinet paint. I used it on an end table. It was very runny, I don't think I'll use it. It does self level VERY nicely, but it also tacks up RIDICULOUSLY fast. Way worse than even chalk paint, which dries in minutes.  It's an acrylic, so not as strong as the urethane and alkyd paints anyway. 

Definitely not using BM Advance, the other one I tried. It takes WAY too long to dry/cure...it is REALLY easily marred for days/weeks and in my house ended up with dust getting into it as it was still soft even 12 hours later. Recoat time is a MINIMUM of 16 hours - in my house/temps/humidity it was still not sandable/fully dry at 24 hours! Now, that was a very dark color, so light would be a bit faster, but not a good choice. 

At this point looking at either SW Emerald Urethane Trim  paint, which is a top one recommended, or INSLX Cabinet Coat (which is owned by Ben Moore). But the Cabinet Coat I have to order 2 gallons at a time and wait for it to come in. The Emerald is a bit more expensive (I'd use a coupon though) but I have a sherwin williams store 2 miles away. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

8 minutes ago, Katy said:

White is classic and doesn't go out of style.  I'd do that if you're so inclined.

Don't take the probiotics until the antibiotic course is over. I thought it was a myth that they compete but I read some study on science daily years ago that someone tested it and it makes antibiotics less effective.

Supposedly the Florastor doesn't compete, because it is a yeast, not a bacteria. They don't effect each other I guess. 

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, Katy said:

White is classic and doesn't go out of style.  I'd do that if you're so inclined.

Don't take the probiotics until the antibiotic course is over. I thought it was a myth that they compete but I read some study on science daily years ago that someone tested it and it makes antibiotics less effective.

 

59 minutes ago, ktgrok said:

Supposedly the Florastor doesn't compete, because it is a yeast, not a bacteria. They don't effect each other I guess. 

Yep. And if c diff does start to overgrow, if you wait until you finish the antibiotics, you’re very well going to be too late and already be in a full blown c Diff infection before you are done with them. 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I’ve been using the Behr cabinet & trim paint and I like it. It’s much cheaper than the SW & BM ones I’ve bought in previous houses. It seems dry in a few hours and cured in maybe 12. I chose it because Home Depot is close. I have noticed I need to stir for a full two minutes or I’m wasting my time, but it’s way less frustrating than other cheap paints I tried in the past. And it doesn’t smell. I’d probably drive further for something higher quality if we were staying here, but I’m putting this house on the market soon. 

I will say my favorite BM White Opulence color looks more Ivory than the BM paint does, which manages to not stand out against pure white but still has a touch of warmth to it. This one is more like a mix of white & ivory. It’s still pretty just not my favorite white color exactly. DH cannot tell the difference. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

59 minutes ago, Katy said:

I’ve been using the Behr cabinet & trim paint and I like it. It’s much cheaper than the SW & BM ones I’ve bought in previous houses. It seems dry in a few hours and cured in maybe 12. I chose it because Home Depot is close. I have noticed I need to stir for a full two minutes or I’m wasting my time, but it’s way less frustrating than other cheap paints I tried in the past. And it doesn’t smell. I’d probably drive further for something higher quality if we were staying here, but I’m putting this house on the market soon. 

I will say my favorite BM White Opulence color looks more Ivory than the BM paint does, which manages to not stand out against pure white but still has a touch of warmth to it. This one is more like a mix of white & ivory. It’s still pretty just not my favorite white color exactly. DH cannot tell the difference. 

So, to be confusing, the Behr Cabinet & Trim paint is an acrylic, but the one now advised to actually use on kitchen cabinets is NOT called a cabinet and trim paint, but just Behr Urethane Enamel. It's more resistant to cleaning chemicals, finger oils, staining, etc. Its all so confusing, lol. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

42 minutes ago, ktgrok said:

So, to be confusing, the Behr Cabinet & Trim paint is an acrylic, but the one now advised to actually use on kitchen cabinets is NOT called a cabinet and trim paint, but just Behr Urethane Enamel. It's more resistant to cleaning chemicals, finger oils, staining, etc. Its all so confusing, lol. 

Yes, that is confusing.  Apparently the urethane enamel version is oil based and definitely has fumes, so it isn't something I would use here in the upper midwest. The window for the right combination of temperature, humidity, and ventilation would be a couple of weeks in late summer only I suspect.  I don't think the HD here would even recommend it.  eta: they don't stock it here.

The one I'm using is Behr Premium Satin Cabinet & Trim Enamel. It says it's fast drying and self-leveling and that doors won't stick after two hours, and it's sandable.  I agree it dries quickly but it still feels slightly soft like you could mar it 2 hours later. I've never had the courage to paint a door in place so IDK about that.

I know I've used BM & SW cabinet & trim paints that were water based and still durable even with multiple kids, but they were pricey. More than $100/gallon before the pandemic pricey.  I don't know how Florida humidity would impact that though.  I don't think I ever painted anything but walls when I lived there.

Edited by Katy
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 minutes ago, Katy said:

Yes, that is confusing.  Apparently the urethane enamel version is oil based and definitely has fumes, so it isn't something I would use here in the upper midwest. The window for the right combination of temperature, humidity, and ventilation would be a couple of weeks in late summer only I suspect.  I don't think the HD here would even recommend it.  eta: they don't stock it here.

The one I'm using is Behr Premium Satin Cabinet & Trim Enamel. It says it's fast drying and self-leveling and that doors won't stick after two hours, and it's sandable.  I agree it dries quickly but it still feels slightly soft like you could mar it 2 hours later. I've never had the courage to paint a door in place so IDK about that.

I know I've used BM & SW cabinet & trim paints that were water based and still durable even with multiple kids, but they were pricey. More than $100/gallon before the pandemic pricey.  I don't know how Florida humidity would impact that though.  I don't think I ever painted anything but walls when I lived there.

The Urethane Enamel is actualy waterbased, it's one of the "newer" hybrid paints, similar to Emerald Urethane, or the Ben Moore Advance, etc. Water based, low VOC, cleans up with soap and water, but durability similar to an oil based. They do take longer to dry than an acrylic, but are harder and more chemical resistant supposedly. 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 minute ago, ktgrok said:

The Urethane Enamel is actualy waterbased, it's one of the "newer" hybrid paints, similar to Emerald Urethane, or the Ben Moore Advance, etc. Water based, low VOC, cleans up with soap and water, but durability similar to an oil based. They do take longer to dry than an acrylic, but are harder and more chemical resistant supposedly. 

Interesting.  The review I just read said it was oil based.  Sounds like a good thing to try then.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

9 minutes ago, Katy said:

Interesting.  The review I just read said it was oil based.  Sounds like a good thing to try then.

This is from the description of it at Home Depot

The BEHR Urethane Alkyd Semi-Gloss Enamel provides the performance and durability of a traditional oil-based paint with the ease of use and convenience of a water-based paint.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/BEHR-PREMIUM-1-gal-White-Urethane-Alkyd-Semi-Gloss-Enamel-Interior-Exterior-Paint-390001/300831629?source=shoppingads&locale=en-US&pla&mtc=Shopping-BF-F_D24-G-D24-024_015_INT_PAINT-Multi-NA-NA-LIA-NA-NA-FY21_Interior_LIA_Q3_Pro_Control&cm_mmc=Shopping-BF-F_D24-G-D24-024_015_INT_PAINT-Multi-NA-NA-LIA-NA-NA-FY21_Interior_LIA_Q3_Pro_Control-71700000075826928-58700006496910120-92700058691144926&gclid=CjwKCAjwgr6TBhAGEiwA3aVuIZtulRTJE200T4MIAxn2keD-xUgbKLYqcasjzHK1QAqPo6Rx4b0SZRoC_roQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 hours ago, ktgrok said:

The Urethane Enamel is actualy waterbased, it's one of the "newer" hybrid paints, similar to Emerald Urethane, or the Ben Moore Advance, etc. Water based, low VOC, cleans up with soap and water, but durability similar to an oil based. They do take longer to dry than an acrylic, but are harder and more chemical resistant supposedly. 

Some BTDT advice.....I used BM Advance in my kitchen. Even 2 years later, when I wash the cabinets with any kind of grease remover/cleaner, the color still comes off on the cloth. I usually use Lysol or Method. Krud Kutter for the worst of the worst.  Krud Kutter, ruined the paint and left a smear across the paint, so never use that. I had it on a cloth from cleaning something else, walked by and saw food on the cabinet. I just wiped it like normal, and the paint now has a matching smudge across it. Lysol seems to be the least harsh. I buy Method for dd15 (it motivates her to clean). I secretly cut it half and half with water, which isn't too harsh. When she grabbed a new bottle that wasn't diluted yet and sprayed the cabinet it, it left a mark. 

Now I just use Dawn and water.  It doesn't remove the paint or leave a mark. 

Edited by Tap
  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

7 hours ago, ktgrok said:

Oh, I did try out another brand of paint - the Magnolia Homes cabinet paint. I used it on an end table. It was very runny, I don't think I'll use it. It does self level VERY nicely, but it also tacks up RIDICULOUSLY fast. Way worse than even chalk paint, which dries in minutes.  It's an acrylic, so not as strong as the urethane and alkyd paints anyway. 

Definitely not using BM Advance, the other one I tried. It takes WAY too long to dry/cure...it is REALLY easily marred for days/weeks and in my house ended up with dust getting into it as it was still soft even 12 hours later. Recoat time is a MINIMUM of 16 hours - in my house/temps/humidity it was still not sandable/fully dry at 24 hours! Now, that was a very dark color, so light would be a bit faster, but not a good choice. 

At this point looking at either SW Emerald Urethane Trim  paint, which is a top one recommended, or INSLX Cabinet Coat (which is owned by Ben Moore). But the Cabinet Coat I have to order 2 gallons at a time and wait for it to come in. The Emerald is a bit more expensive (I'd use a coupon though) but I have a sherwin williams store 2 miles away. 

 

I do think Advance it is a good paint, but only good, not phenomenal. I used Advance, and now 2 years later, I still have a cabinet near the stove that sticks. I put rubber bumpers on all the doors, but even with that, it still takes effort to open this one door. It hasn't peeled off or left a mark on the paint. But it is annoying.  I let the paint cure a ridiculous long amount of time, so it wasn't user error. I think I am going to put a sticker on the paint, so the bumper hits that instead of the pain.  It should fix it, but I shouldn't have to do this. 

Edited by Tap
Link to comment
Share on other sites

So, for whites, if I can convince DH to do white, I like Snowbound from SW. I know you'd think I'd want warmer, but the light in the kitchen seems to make things look more yellow, so using one of the warmer whites makes it look way more yellow than normal - my son looked and said that the warm ones looked like white paint in a house someone had been smoking for years in. He wasn't wrong. 

Soji white pulls more pink than yellow, but it doesn't give much contrast from walls, etc. 

So, going to try to convince him. I think with the white pantry (will repaint in whatever white I did the cabinets in), white blinds on the sliding glass door, white fence outside that you see through the sliding glass doors, etc it would look good to have the cabinets white as well. Rather than introducing another color. 

That said, I also like rare grey from SW, seems like a green grey. But again, not sure adding a color into the room is the best idea. I'd think it was a bit odd with the pantry white, but not sure the pantry wold look good with the grey, etc etc. 

He's just worried about them looking dirty. I'm thinking I can remind him that we are replacing in a year or two anyway, so good time to see how white holds up, since we don't need it to last forever. 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

DH says I can do white!

Or rather, I said that given that I'm about to have my reproductive choices stripped from me by the government,  I'm at least going to insist on the choice of cabinet color. 

He couldn't really argue with that. 

(he's out of town and knowing me, and knowing that I tend to do projects while he is gone, and that when I feel out of control over the world at large I assert control over home improvement projects, he was kind of figuring they'd already be half painted white by now, lol)

He also did say that he's realized that white cabinets can look different than he was picturing - we have friends with an uber modern white kitchen, and he hates that look and in his head had tied in modern and white. So knowing I'm not going super modern, and that we are replacing them anyway in a few years, he wasn't really going to make a fuss anyway. But with the supreme court stuff happening he figured just let me win this one, lol. 

  • Like 3
  • Haha 4
Link to comment
Share on other sites

16 minutes ago, KungFuPanda said:

Where do you live?  I’m coming to help you. I’m not remotely qualified,  but I need closure. I also need photos. 

Ha!

I promise to get started as soon as I'm done painting/staining the Ikea chair I'm working on. And I need to choose hardware so we can drill the holes.

Color will be SW Snowbound.

Paint will likely be Emerald Urethane by Sherwin Williams. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, Lawyer&Mom said:

This is a great article about picking the right white for your kitchen.

https://www.kylieminteriors.ca/how-to-choose-the-best-white-for-your-kitchen-cabinets/

Here is another about working with beige tiles. 
 

https://www.kylieminteriors.ca/paint-colour-ideas-to-update-your-beige-tiles-or-carpet/

I had seen the first link but not the second- it explains why the whites with yellow undertones looked so bad! I will reread again in the morning. 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 hours ago, KungFuPanda said:

Where do you live?  I’m coming to help you. I’m not remotely qualified,  but I need closure. I also need photos. 

I’m coming, too!! I really wanted to see what the blue or green ended up looking like, but I could tell you were never really settled with them so I think the white is a good choice.

  • Like 2
  • Haha 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I did a TON of research before I did mine. 
BIN primer (horrid stuff) two coats, PPGv50 (voc 250- don’t reverse the numbers) - 3 coats with Whizz rollers. 
 

The FB page is called Cabinet Painting and Refinishing. There are a lot of pros on there. Most go with Milesi but I’m not spraying and I don’t think there’sa dealer who will do small quantity. I did White Dove uppers - it’sa great color but you might not want it because it’s warm but I paired it with Urbane Bronze. 
 

White Dove

Link to comment
Share on other sites

6 hours ago, BlsdMama said:

I did a TON of research before I did mine. 
BIN primer (horrid stuff) two coats, PPGv50 (voc 250- don’t reverse the numbers) - 3 coats with Whizz rollers. 
 

The FB page is called Cabinet Painting and Refinishing. There are a lot of pros on there. Most go with Milesi but I’m not spraying and I don’t think there’sa dealer who will do small quantity. I did White Dove uppers - it’sa great color but you might not want it because it’s warm but I paired it with Urbane Bronze. 
 

White Dove

I’m in that group!  The moderators sell milesi now, and one lives across town from me so I could buy from him, but not sure it is worth it for cabinets I’d be replacing in a year or two. Plus he sort of rubs me the wrong way. I can get the emerald urethane just down the street, and can get an extender to use with it cheaply. I know people didn’t like the rough finish but the recently reformilated and now experts say the finish is nice, with the proper smooth feel and sheen. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share

Ă—
Ă—
  • Create New...