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How did you leash train your dog?


Alicia64
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You may well already do this, but the biggest thing for us was consistent twice daily walks, at least 20 minutes at time (we have a much smaller dog). You have to give him lots of opportunity to practice, as well as make it routine and not so exciting. When she pulled, I stopped completely and waited for her to stop pulling or come to me. When she stopped, walking resumed.

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Will you tell me more about this? I've heard to try a Gentle Leader. It would be awesome if it would work. . .I'm just so down in the dumps on how hard it's been to train my guy.

 

He's really smart and clearly doesn't respect me a whole lot. I feed him and he comes to me for comfort, but my DH gets way more respect.

 

Plus he's about 75 lbs. and very strong so if I'm not careful I could get pulled over.

 

We would never, ever "get rid of a dog," but I'm having very bummed moments that I didn't just go to Yorkie rescue.

 

I'd love to hear more about Gentle Leader.

 

Alley

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I like to walk my dog on a loose leash. My goal is that I get to walk briskly and she gets to explore as she wants to as long as the leash is loose. (ie she isn't pulling.) I used the method on the Kiko videos . In addition,  (I don't think this was on Kiko) something I learned from a dog trainer years ago,  was if the dog pulls, stop. The dog doesn't get the reinforcement of moving forward until s/he comes back to you. Both the Kiko techniques and the stop if she pulls like a train require patience at the beginning. The only purpose of the first several walks is teaching the dog leash manners (not getting your exercise in which is what I want to do!)  I also had to walk her really close to home so there was nothing novel for a while. Now I can walk around the neighborhood.  I'm kind of dreading the adjustment to hiking with her come spring because it will all be new. I will take one of my grown sons with me for several trips until she learns to walk on a loose leash on a trail as well.

 

Hang in there! Your dog will get it!

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I trained my dog to heel by starting him in the sit command. While holding the leash to my right and only 2-3 feet from the collar, I started to walk and simultaneously said "heel" once.

 

If pup"s nose went ahead of me, I tugged the leash back quickly yet gently and said "no." If he took a few steps behind me or at my side, I said "good boy."

 

It worked.

 

:) He's an easy going Coon Hound mix, though. 

 

ETA: If he's not under the heel command, he'll pull like a horse, but he does obey the heel.

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we have a new GS rescue and we use the Gentle Leader too.  It does help quite a bit with pulling.  I accidentally didn't use it once and just hooked onto her reg. collar... such a big difference.

 

She pulls, but not badly - more lie keeping the line tight.  Also, we practice redirection.  When she starts to pull, I call her happilly and start walking in the opposite direction.  positive reinforcement when she does well.

 

I'm NO expert, and we're still in obedience classes (I recommend this) but these things seem to be helping.

 

OOPS - realized now that we actually have the Easy Walk... not the Gentle Leader.

 

 

 

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What level of obedience are you working towards? The linked videos are OK if ones aspirations are very low, but a dog sniffing around when it is supposed to be "heeling" will get one disqualified in an Obedience trial.

 

There are PR (positive reinforcement) methods that are similar, but more exacting than the linked videos. Best IMO to find an excellient PR training class if you're looking for formal heeling. Otherwise, it just takes consistency and work. A lot of repetitions and rewards of desired behaviors.

 

As to Gentle Leaders, I've never used one, but I know they have very bad reputations with the dog handlers I know.

 

PR training can (and does) work *if* a handler puts in the time and effort required over time. Consistency is key. Dogs naturally seek to please. Rewarding good behaviors, and refocusing bad ones (with techniques like backing up) is a legitimate training method.

 

Personally, I think pinch collars are a safe (when used properly) training tool that can compliment treat based training. Safer than head halters and choke chains (which easily cause injuries to windpipes). Despite the medeviel torture device looks, pinch collars are pretty safe. But they are not "necessary."

 

Bill

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I like to walk my dog on a loose leash. My goal is that I get to walk briskly and she gets to explore as she wants to as long as the leash is loose. (ie she isn't pulling.) I used the method on the Kiko videos . In addition,  (I don't think this was on Kiko) something I learned from a dog trainer years ago,  was if the dog pulls, stop. The dog doesn't get the reinforcement of moving forward until s/he comes back to you. Both the Kiko techniques and the stop if she pulls like a train require patience at the beginning. The only purpose of the first several walks is teaching the dog leash manners (not getting your exercise in which is what I want to do!)  I also had to walk her really close to home so there was nothing novel for a while. Now I can walk around the neighborhood.  I'm kind of dreading the adjustment to hiking with her come spring because it will all be new. I will take one of my grown sons with me for several trips until she learns to walk on a loose leash on a trail as well.

 

Hang in there! Your dog will get it!

 

:iagree: This is how we trained our Great Pyrenees (larger and stronger than a GS, so you can imagine how important this was to me).  And I would add the step of starting in the house, because then nothing is new. 

 

As stated above, this can be a slow process. But the dog has to learn that a leash with tension on it results in the dog not going anywhere.  And that's the mindset for all training.  Dogs don't speak English.  They speak energy and cause/effect.  Your energy should be calm.  There is no need for words here, it will just add input to a situation that doesn't need them.  Just stand there and look at something other than the dog until the dog figures it out. Once if finally clicks, progress will be rapid with regular practice.

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Train him to heel, on or off the leash.

 

Agreed. Find a treat that will really motivate him and use them. Also, any dog I have ever had, I started them off right away with the leash inside the house. Not having ahold of it, just hooking it to their collar and letting them drag it around behind them. (Watching them of course). At first they were a little freaked by it following them everywhere, but it eventually became part of them and they weren't bothered by it when we connected it.

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My Pyr is large, young and strong, and she is not too obedient because she is a Pyr.  I have had some success with her in many areas but not on leash pulling.  My goal is not obedience competitions.  I just want to walk her around the neighborhood without her pulling my arm off or dragging me over to meet a new dog behind a fence.  I just ordered the Gentle Leader.  My aspirations are low.  ;)  She loves our walks, and I need the exercise, but if she does not learn better leash manners, I don't know how much longer I can keep it up.  She has learned "leave it", just to end on a good note.  :D

 

(I call her my uncivilized dog.)

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Bill's post is excellent. I've used pinch collars. They aren't cruel on a 75 lb dog with a double coat when used correctly. Make sure your placement is correct and only use it when he's on leash.

 

Frankly the sooner he's trained, the sooner you can begin really enjoying him and taking him places and he'll love it and be so much happier.

 

German shepherds are working breeds generally with good food drive. You might want to research marker training. I also like the Leerburg site.

 

Generally training works best in tandem with heavy exercise.

 

Owning a German shepherd is very rewarding. They are bright, loving, and wonderful dogs. We've owned four, two currently. But they definitely require training, exercise, and learning how their mind operates. I'm fairly certain both my G shepherds are capable of outsmarting me. ;)

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I have an Easy Walk.  My dog can still manage to pull if I let him keep going ahead - which I've been lazy about this winter as most of his walking is just around the yard and he really wants to *run* and *sniff* (and I'd rather walk, or trudge)!  I feel guilty that he's not getting more exercise, but gah, 8 feet of snow in a month!  The roads are treacherous.  But he's a small dog, so it's easy to get a bit complacent about the naughty pulling, especially when it's just around the yard.

 

When we were going on regular walks, though, it worked pretty well.  The just stop till he stops pulling seems to help - if you stop completely, they can't pull forward.  I got the Easy Walk because I heard the small breeds can get trachea collapse, and I really didn't want anything pulling on his throat.

 

Hopefully he'll remember his good manners when we get back to longer walks, but I'm thinking I might have some re-training to do...

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What level of obedience are you working towards? The linked videos are OK if ones aspirations are very low, but a dog sniffing around when it is supposed to be "heeling" will get one disqualified in an Obedience trial.

 

There are PR (positive reinforcement) methods that are similar, but more exacting than the linked videos. Best IMO to find an excellient PR training class if you're looking for formal heeling. Otherwise, it just takes consistency and work. A lot of repetitions and rewards of desired behaviors.

 

As to Gentle Leaders, I've never used one, but I know they have very bad reputations with the dog handlers I know.

 

PR training can (and does) work *if* a handler puts in the time and effort required over time. Consistency is key. Dogs naturally seek to please. Rewarding good behaviors, and refocusing bad ones (with techniques like backing up) is a legitimate training method.

 

Personally, I think pinch collars are a safe (when used properly) training tool that can compliment treat based training. Safer than head halters and choke chains (which easily cause injuries to windpipes). Despite the medeviel torture device looks, pinch collars are pretty safe. But they are not "necessary."

 

Bill

 

I agree with the bolded.

 

Head halters are not necessarily the benign devices they're often made out to be.  Used improperly they can really mess up a dog's neck.  And many dogs won't tolerate them, or the effort required to get them to tolerate a head halter isn't worth it.

 

Pinch collars are IMO an excellent tool.  Despite their off-putting look, they're really not painful.  Put one around your own neck (or arm or leg) and pull.  They tighten and they're uncomfortable, but they don't really hurt.  I call them power steering for dogs.  I'm not implying anyone here is an idiot (not by a long shot!) but in general pinch collars are much more "idiot proof" than head halters.

 

IME front clip harness can work well, but it's difficult to get them to fit properly on many dogs.

 

I'm not against using tools to get the results you need.  But of course the long term goal is to wean off the tool.

 

And most people with pets are just after loose leash walking.  Unless they're in a city and the dog is walked in crowded areas, there's usually no need for a formal heel.

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We used an easy walk harness as well as treating when she was where she should be.  Heidi has a near perfect heel which is actually not common for GSDs.  Loose-leash is the standard to shoot for.  If you get perfect, great :)

 

The first time with my daughter: 

 

https://www.facebook.com/video.php?v=467231443416118&set=vb.100003877980878&type=3&theater

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I used the gentle leader which works great. But I got tired of people saying it was a muzzle and being scared of my dog so I switched the easy walk harness which also works great.

 

I did not have the patience to leash train our dog when we rescued him. I tried for a few weeks and finally said to heck with it and bought the leader.

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I've had 6 German Shepherds (2 currently).

My guys have all been over 100 lbs-- current guy is 120+.

 

The Gentle Leader never worked for me (tried it with 2).  If I had a stubborn puller then I used a pinch collar-- no harm to dog (GS's have very thick necks)-- it does NOT penetrate the skin, just applies pressure.  After a few outings with the pinch collar we switched over to one of the Martingale combo collars (half webbing and half slip chain)--This is my favorite type of collar for my dogs as it is loose on their necks except when needed for control-- it gives them a gentle reminder that they are pulling instead of walking with you.  Our current collars are all webbing Martingale's--but it has the safety pinch-to-open part AND the slip part (gets tighter if pulled) and like the combo with the half chain you can limit how tight it gets (unlike traditional slip chains).  We found them at Petsmart and you can get them on amazon too.  You will need the large/x-large size.

 

We also took frequent short walks (just around our drive) and I repeated the command 'PLACE' until they understood that I wanted them at my side and not out in front.  When it is OK for them to smell around I say 'AT EASE' and they know they can move ahead if they want.

 

I seriously suggest one or two sessions with a trainer who specializes in large breed dogs (smart dogs).

 

 

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Do you mind if I jump in here with my own [related] question? I will start a new thread if you'd like, but I thought it might be useful for you, too, so I figured I'd sneak in.

 

Anyway...

 

Do you guys have any advice for dogs who can walk relatively well UNTIL another dog is in sight? Does stopping and turning around work when there's such a huge, instinctive reinforcement to lunge ahead anyway? Or are we forever doomed to turning down another street or sitting off to the side, hanging on to the harness?

 

 

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Do you mind if I jump in here with my own [related] question? I will start a new thread if you'd like, but I thought it might be useful for you, too, so I figured I'd sneak in.

 

Anyway...

 

Do you guys have any advice for dogs who can walk relatively well UNTIL another dog is in sight? Does stopping and turning around work when there's such a huge, instinctive reinforcement to lunge ahead anyway? Or are we forever doomed to turning down another street or sitting off to the side, hanging on to the harness?

 

That's called leash reactivity and it's a huge problem for many dogs.

 

Turning around and going in the opposite direction can certainly work, but it takes tons of practice.  Preferably you have a friend or neighbor to work with.  I'm not sure how effective it is if you only do it on your regular walks when you see another dog unless that happens frequently.  For most dogs it also depends how far away the other dog is when spotted.  If it's a hundred yards away you can usually make a U turn w/o a problem.  If it's a 100 feet . . . maybe not.  Each dog has his own threshold.

 

One method often recommended is to have your dog sit at the first glimpse of another dog, and start giving treats.  What you want to work toward is getting the default behavior to be sitting and looking at you when he sees another dog, not immediately turning into a snarling, lunging beast.  But again for this distance matters.  At first you might have success doing that at 100 yards, but you might have to work up to keeping Fido sitting and taking treats/looking at you when a dog is closer.  It usually has to be worked on in small increments, letting the second dog get closer and closer as Fido learns to be calm.

 

But Google leash reactivity and do some reading to see some of the different methods recommended for dealing with it.  Pick the one that seems most do-able for you.

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I've had 6 German Shepherds (2 currently).

My guys have all been over 100 lbs-- current guy is 120+.

 

The Gentle Leader never worked for me (tried it with 2).  If I had a stubborn puller then I used a pinch collar-- no harm to dog (GS's have very thick necks)-- it does NOT penetrate the skin, just applies pressure.  After a few outings with the pinch collar we switched over to one of the Martingale combo collars (half webbing and half slip chain)--This is my favorite type of collar for my dogs as it is loose on their necks except when needed for control-- it gives them a gentle reminder that they are pulling instead of walking with you.  Our current collars are all webbing Martingale's--but it has the safety pinch-to-open part AND the slip part (gets tighter if pulled) and like the combo with the half chain you can limit how tight it gets (unlike traditional slip chains).  We found them at Petsmart and you can get them on amazon too.  You will need the large/x-large size.

 

We also took frequent short walks (just around our drive) and I repeated the command 'PLACE' until they understood that I wanted them at my side and not out in front.  When it is OK for them to smell around I say 'AT EASE' and they know they can move ahead if they want.

 

I seriously suggest one or two sessions with a trainer who specializes in large breed dogs (smart dogs).

 

I Pm'd you! And thanks!

 

Alley

 

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Thank you everyone! I truly appreciate all of your help -- and I don't mind the thread taking a turn at all.

 

I've taught my dog "leave it" and I can sometimes use a "leave it" on him when he sees/hears a dog.

 

But I'm certainly not the expert here! :)

 

Alley

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Albeto,

 

Go to Petsmart.  Go towards the back of the lot. Each time he perks up his ears, looks towards a dog, etc, click and give him a treat. If he actually lunges, barks, etc, walk away, a moment, click him for paying attention, walking, doing a sit or down, then go back to your spot.  Only do a couple minutes the first time and work up and closer to the door.  It is perfectly okay for your dog to notice the environment.  You are clicking that.  In time, he will notice and look at you and you will click that instead.  Any "behavior," will be redirected (not punished!).  

 

Ideally, you'd do this with a trainer who could really help you get good at the timing.  It will go faster.  I linked a dog trainer search above.

 

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My girl has leash reactivity, as well.  I chalk it up to her guardian instincts because once she has encountered a dog and we have deemed it approachable or "leave it", she will obey a strong and repeated "leave it".  She aggressively pulls to get at any new dogs, though.  When I speak of this, I am meaning almost always through a fence while I am leash walking her in the neighborhood.  Our neighborhood is rural, and all the houses have several acres.  Once she has decided that a dog might be a threat to me/us, she is very difficult to control. lunging and pulling towards the dog.  Once she has determined a dog is not a threat, she is able to "leave it" and ignore the dog.  She is not dog aggressive and has not made any aggressive moves unless the other dog does, and then she only matches the other dog's level of aggression, usually growling.  She has encountered dogs running free in the neighborhood and has done well with them since they have been friendly.  I am proud of my girl, but she has a ways to go to be easy to walk.  I would love it if my sons could manage her, but as is, only a strong adult can manage her on a walk.

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Do you mind if I jump in here with my own [related] question? I will start a new thread if you'd like, but I thought it might be useful for you, too, so I figured I'd sneak in.

 

Anyway...

 

Do you guys have any advice for dogs who can walk relatively well UNTIL another dog is in sight? Does stopping and turning around work when there's such a huge, instinctive reinforcement to lunge ahead anyway? Or are we forever doomed to turning down another street or sitting off to the side, hanging on to the harness?

 

I feel one of those "book length" answers to justify my answer (with lots of caveats built in) but (so I can go get my own pooch out) I'm cutting to the chase.

 

PR is a great training method, until it fails. Many of the top Obedience dogs in the nation are trained with PR methods, but these are dogs that are trained by people who handle dogs as profession or as an avocation. Mere mortals do well (IMO) to take the best of the PR to "train" (although the emphasis on treats over "praise" has swung too far IMO, a combination of both is best). The old "corrective based" training (especially using choke chains which damage delicate windpipes) has thankfully passed out of fashion with all but the knuckle-draggers.

 

But for a big dog, who has a strong prey drive and is prone to lunge who is not owned by a dog training enthusiast my recommendation would be to use a martingale style pinch collar. Not to use it as the primary training tool, nor by giving harsh corrections. Use PR to train, and let the dog "self-correct"when it pulls on the martingale pinch collar. Dogs learn quickly not to lunge or pull. Gentleness, safety, and efficiency of training are maximized mixing methods IMO.

 

Strictly PR trainers would have my head for saying so. Dog training can be a very polarizing topic. Building a strong bond with your dog, building trust and affection should be paramount. When dogs have a clear understanding of a handlers expectations most seek to please. it is usually the humans who fail in the relationship by not communicating well, and especially by not praising positive behaviors.

 

Still, well trained dogs can be overwhelmed by prey drive. A big strong dog can break away from an owner. A "lunge" can turn into tragedy if a dog breaks out and is hit by a car. 

 

As an alternative to the standard wire pinch collar I have a Herm Sprenger Neck-Tech Martingale collar that looks much nicer, more like a piece of mans jewelry, with wider "teeth" on the inside that I find to be more gentle (but still effective) than the standard pinch collar. Not cheap, but worth it to me.

 

http://www.gundogsupply.com/herm-sprenger-neck-tech-pinch-training-collars.html

 

Bill (late for the dog park)

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I'm not sure the Petsmart parking lot is a good idea at all.  I guess it depends on the store, the size/strength of the dog, the size/strength of the person controlling the dog, etc.  All three of our local Petsmarts are in massively busy shopping centers with about a zillion distractions, and on very busy roads.  Plus there are so many dogs going in/out who are totally untrained themselves.  No, the more I think about it -- There's no way I'd recommend working on a leash reactive dog at any of them.  From a training standpoint you work on things in quiet, low distraction areas to begin with and gradually move to more distracting environments.  When you feel like your dog has 99 percent got it . . . that's when you go to Petsmart and "proof" the behavior.

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Wanted to update with my gentle leader experience.  My little dd worked with Daisy with the gentle leader a couple of times after watching the DVD.  I took Daisy on a 20 minute walk today, and by the end of the walk, she had mastered the gentle leader and stopped trying to fight it or paw it.

 

It worked really well for her, and she is easy to manage on the leash now.  Ideally, I would work for her for hours and hire a trainer to properly train her, but I am not working with ideal here so this is a good solution.

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Pawz, sure, you have to be mindful of the surroundings.  And I agree that going in Petsmart itself is for proofing.  But when you are starting for the reactivity, you  need a place you'll actually see dogs. Now, obviously you're not going on a Saturday afternoon when the whole shopping center is hopping crazy and there are so many dogs with their own behaviors.  But a Tuesday morning when you're back a bit from the door will be pretty quiet as few stores are getting much traffic.  I just assume people know their own stores and their locations.  And you might pick Petco or some groomer if the location was better.  

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