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dog chews--healthy, long lasting, non messy, ideally organic/non GMO--what do you use?


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We have a 1 year old 70 pound big chewer dog who cannot easily be left alone without something to chew on or he will shred house and contents, (or car if he is in car)--and he can get out of crates.

 

We also have a 13 year old even bigger dog who is fine without a chew object, long past chewing everything stage if left to herself, but needs to have something if the other dog does, and cannot any longer handle real bones (which in any case I am not fond of in house due to mess).

 

The young dog is very very happy if left with a cardboard box to rip up, but the old dog will eat the box pieces if the young one shreds it. I am sure it is not healthy for the old dog and it is also messy to clean up afterward. Though actually this has been one of our better options to keep the youngster happy and occupied.

 

The other thing I have found besides boxes that the younger seems to like are Bully Sticks type chews--but recently someone questioned whether they are healthy for the dogs in terms of GMO and so on. Also though they last a lot longer than pig's ears type chews and are safer to swallow than rope and Nylabone, they do not last all that long for my voracious chewer dogs. He could easily go through $20 worth of Bully Sticks while we are at the library.

 

Both dogs are unsafe with Nylabone and rope type toys which they can demolish and eat (I was very surprised and dismayed to find that the old dog actually ate a whole rope tug minus one knot, while my back was turned)--and also the young dog prefers things like furniture, slippers, socks, making nylabone, rope etc. not very effective alternatives. He likes to play with balls and such with people, but will not chew on or entertain himself with them when he is by himself.

 

Many chews do not last long enough (things like pig's ears are gone in an instant), or are thought to clog dog intestines (rawhide and Greenies so I have heard). And otherwise have some of the same potential health issues of Bully Sticks--but some perhaps not so expensive.

 

Any suggestions?

 

ETA: I am hoping this major chewing stage does not go on and on! I do not recall any previous dogs having this much need, or else we were able to use real bones to satisfy it.

 

I am also wondering if maybe a real bone for young dog and something special for old dog that she could handle would work, but I am not sure what that would be.

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These are practically indestructible: http://www.dogsgonuts.com

 

I can't leave one of mine unattended with antlers. She'd chew until she was bloody.

 

I had a dog who cracked a tooth on the super hard Nylabone, so I haven't used those in years.

 

The Hurley model is very sturdy, as is the ball. The twisty one we supervise, as well as the tug of war toy, but boy do our dogs love it.

http://www.westpawdesign.com/catalog/dogs/dog-toys/eco-friendly-dog-toys/eco-friendly-products/hurley

 

How does he get out of the crate? Can you use a zip tie to lock the latches? Is he getting enough exercise? My high energy girl did better when she went for a long run with DH in the morning or doggy daycare once a week or so when she was still a pup.

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Sounds as if the real issue is that your younger dog has separation anxiety.  It's a very tough issue to deal with, but it can be overcome with time and diligent training.  Frequently, medication will be necessary to help calm the dog while you work on retraining.  For his own safety you probably should look into a sturdier crate.

 

As far as chews -- Keep in mind that there is NO chew item for dogs that doesn't carry some risk.  It's up to the owner to decide which risks he/she is willing to take.  My small and medium sized dogs (not power chewers) get sterilized, hollow bones that are approximately 3 inches long.  I stuff them with a small amount of cheese, and they each get one when we leave.  They also get Kongs that have been stuffed with a mixture of mashed banana, plain yogurt and peanut butter and frozen.  They have antlers for recreational chewing, but only when we're at home.  They aren't high value enough to give them when we leave home.

 

Personally, knowing what a dangerous and difficult issue SA is to deal with, I'd be looking for anything that worked to keep him occupied and reasonably content.  Organic, GMO, etc. would be the least of my concerns.

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Agreeing  on the kongs and real bones. I buy dog bones at the butcher, bake them and give. I would give them raw, but the bacteria squeems me out. 

Most of my clients have kongs they stuff. 

 

Agreeing also on the crate. Don't use a twist tie if you have a chewer. Zip ties might work, but you have to tie where they can't get it. Solid crate is therefore better than a wire one.  

 

Separation Anxiety is a bear. I took care of a darling little dashie who had it--I couldn't even leave the room without her peeing. We called her Millie the Peeing Wonder Dog. 

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Antlers!  I order mine from this Etsy seller.  No smell, no mess, no splintering.  With our dog who chews on them daily, they last a year or more (although he's not nearly as aggressive a chewer as you describe your dog).  They clean the teeth, too.  Just make sure you get the proper size for your dog.  Some dogs do really go mad for them, so I'd try them out supervised first.

 

Also, consider getting some of the super tough Kongs and then stuffing and freezing them.  (The freezing makes the contents last a lot longer.)  If your dog is not going to just chew up the Kong itself, and will instead spend time focused on licking out the innards, that can keep him occupied for a long time.  Again, I'd try it out supervised first.  if you Google Kong stuffing, you can get lots of ideas, but you can stuff with kibble, cut up hot dogs or cheese, secure the ends with peanut butter or cream cheese, and even pour chicken broth over the contents to freeze into a solid lump.  The mess factor depends on how thorough your dog will be about cleaning up any food that gets out of the Kong.

 

And if it's separation anxiety in play, I'd work with a behaviorist sooner rather than later as it can be a tough problem.

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I give my dogs raw beef neck bones--they are both munching one right now because it is cold and raining and I am NOT taking them outside to play frisbee!

If we will be gone longer than 3 hours I give them a smoked beef knee bone (occasionally I get the HUGE joints--those last a few weeks).

 

Neither dog will chew on a Kong or any artificial 'bone'.

 

Upside is their teeth always look great and their separation anxiety is low (one dog was a rescue who had been abused).

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You might try looking around at www hiltonbutler.com.  They are great at helping choose the right things for your dogs.

 

Disclaimer: I know the owners personally.  They used to be my neighbors.  They had a cool research program going for their products before they launched their store.  Just a thought.

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If we will be gone longer than 3 hours I give them a smoked beef knee bone (occasionally I get the HUGE joints--those last a few weeks).

 

Neither dog will chew on a Kong or any artificial 'bone'.

 

Upside is their teeth always look great and their separation anxiety is low (one dog was a rescue who had been abused).

 

This is us, exactly, too.

 

I get my bones at the local feed store.

 

In a pinch I've gotten a smaller marrow bone from Target, of all places.

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Thank you! I will look into these ideas.  

 

I don't think he has SA (I had a dog with that), just still in chew phase at a time where it is complicated by elderly dog not being able to handle real bones (she breaks teeth), and getting his stuff. And that it is now too cold for him to be outside where the mess factor was not a problem during the summer and early fall.

 

I forgot about freezing stuff in Kongs, and will try that first, since it would be okay for both dogs. It may not last long enough for him or cause too much mess.

 

If that does not work, I'll see how he is with antler while supervised, and if he seems to like it, see if he will remain in crate (where old dog cannot get it) with the antler.

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