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New Puppy we are considering! Need list to buy and questions! UPDATE !!! SEPT 4, May 3 - PICTURES!!!


sheryl
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58 minutes ago, Pen said:

 

Her registration name can be whatever breeder wants.  They are usually high falutin and nearly never used to actually call the dog.  Kennels have systems like Kennel name ,  lineage name, litter name, individual dog name.  Or dogs may be all named starting with a particular letter for each litter...

^^This.^^

Is the breeder sending in the registration papers? If she's not, if I were you I'd file them away (or trash them) and save myself the registration fee. 'Cause if you're going to have her spayed and she's "just" going to be a pet there's no reason to spend the money, unless it means something to you to say "my dog is AKC registered."

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54 minutes ago, Pawz4me said:

^^This.^^

Is the breeder sending in the registration papers? If she's not, if I were you I'd file them away (or trash them) and save myself the registration fee. 'Cause if you're going to have her spayed and she's "just" going to be a pet there's no reason to spend the money, unless it means something to you to say "my dog is AKC registered."

Well, if they want to do competition in obedience, agility, tracking, or even just a CGC it is helpful to already have AKC registration. Even my mutt has AKC paperwork, lol, so I could get his official CGC title and so we can do some other stuff if we want. 

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4 minutes ago, Ktgrok said:

Well, if they want to do competition in obedience, agility, tracking, or even just a CGC it is helpful to already have AKC registration. Even my mutt has AKC paperwork, lol, so I could get his official CGC title and so we can do some other stuff if we want. 

Sure.

But I said if she's just going to be a pet.

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As I understand it, AKC names need to be more or less unique, like email addresses. So if you don't want your dog to be Spot1234567890ABCDE you have to give it a unique name. Which means long, and often a bit wacky, but nobody expects you to call your dog that any more than we'd say "Hi, Pawz4me" if we met her in person.

Going back to microchips, having a chip doesn't mean not putting a tag on your dog, or putting up posters if your dog is lost. It's just an extra level of protection. Among other things, if the dog gets hurt and taken to the vet, or picked up and taken to a shelter, they'll probably scan the microchip. The average Joe on the street doesn't have a microchip reader, but vets and shelters generally do. And unlike collars, microchips rarely fall off.

My dogs and cats have microchips. The dogs also have collars with my number, my email, and the word "REWARD". (Which I hope never is called in, because I really can't pay anything more than a token $10 or so.)

They're registered at HomeAgain and at Found Animals and a few other places, the names of which escape me.

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Good Morning!  I'm going to "group" reply.  

Understand the name thing.  HOWEVER, our first lab was Queen B..... of Br.......    That was her AKC.  We used her everyday name and THEN made an AKC name.  So, I'm realizing with these replies that even though our former 2 labs came from breeders they were not focused on AKC nor competition.  I get it now, thanks.  Take the weird name the breeder suggests.  Extract a name/word from that AKC name as the everyday/pet name or apply another name.  

We registered AKC our first lab, not our 2nd.  The breeder said even though she's handing us the AKC forms, some of her families throw out the paperwork.  

Yes, dd was given the run down and when she's not a c.c. she's helping with puppy.  

Puppy is a pet aka furry family member.   We have no plans to compete.  I don't know if she's show.  Her daddy is championship level.  Her mommy is show, I believe.  

Pictures - I know.  DD took camera on a hike with a friend.  She takes it to photography class at c.c. 2x a week and for assignments.   DH actually fell on camera Sunday before last on a hike.  He hurt his ribs quite badly.  Camera survived! 🙂   Will have dh or dd take pictures today.    I think dh wants to take some, so when he gets home tonight I'll have him do that and get pictures up here.  That's if I know how b/c I've tried posting pics on classifieds to no avail.   

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3 minutes ago, sheryl said:

I don't know if she's show.  Her daddy is championship level.  Her mommy is show, I believe.

Good breeders don't typically sell show quality pups to pet homes. They keep them or they go to other breeders. Our Shih Tzu has a stellar show lineage, including multiple ancestors who were at Westminster. But he has too much white in one eye--a fault that makes him not show worthy (and he may have other breed standard faults that I'm not knowledgeable enough to detect). But most show faults have absolutely no impact as far as being a fabulous pet.

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16 minutes ago, sheryl said:


Pictures - I know.  DD took camera on a hike with a friend.  She takes it to photography class at c.c. 2x a week and for assignments.   DH actually fell on camera Sunday before last on a hike.  He hurt his ribs quite badly.  Camera survived! 🙂   Will have dh or dd take pictures today.    I think dh wants to take some, so when he gets home tonight I'll have him do that and get pictures up here.  That's if I know how b/c I've tried posting pics on classifieds to no avail.   

No phones that take photos?

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Pawz, right!  A pup can descend from championship pedigree but if there is a slight variance to that championship quality that pup will not rise to that level.  

Katie, yes, phones.  But, we want the first pics to be better quality than my 6 yo samsung can deliver.  Need a new phone as this one - the icons "stick" when selected.  And, it's only 16 gig. 

Photos coming this evening.  

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16 minutes ago, sheryl said:

Pawz, right!  A pup can descend from championship pedigree but if there is a slight variance to that championship quality that pup will not rise to that level.  

Katie, yes, phones.  But, we want the first pics to be better quality than my 6 yo samsung can deliver.  Need a new phone as this one - the icons "stick" when selected.  And, it's only 16 gig. 

Photos coming this evening.  

Wait, you have a new puppy and you haven't taken at least 500 photos already???😮

Just kidding, but that's totally what I would do - my phone would be full of puppy pics. They grow so fast, and I love having photos to remember the tiny little baby stage.🙂

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Selkie, see why noted above.  I have NO more storage.  Icons disappear on my phone - weird thing.  My phone CONSTANTLY updates apps.  I HAVE.NO.STORAGE!   🙂  DD has been keeping the good camera.  DH is at work all day and DD just left for class. The earliest we can do is this evening.  

Also, (cat out of the bag) - I'm not techy.  I have a few pics on my phone (had to delete some for storage) of puppy but don't know HOW to upload on pc.  I know I use a cable but which one.  I'm sure I'd be prompted through it but I'd rather not make a mistake.  🙂  

 

Edited by sheryl
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1 hour ago, sheryl said:

Selkie, see why noted above.  I have NO more storage.  Icons disappear on my phone - weird thing.  My phone CONSTANTLY updates apps.  I HAVE.NO.STORAGE!   🙂  DD has been keeping the good camera.  DH is at work all day and DD just left for class. The earliest we can do is this evening.  

Also, (cat out of the bag) - I'm not techy.  I have a few pics on my phone (had to delete some for storage) of puppy but don't know HOW to upload on pc.  I know I use a cable but which one.  I'm sure I'd be prompted through it but I'd rather not make a mistake.  🙂  

 

Just use your phone to go to the internet and lot into this forum. When you got to post a reply there will be an option to choose files, when you click it you should be able to add the photo. Do it all from the phone, rather than trying to upload the photo to the computer first. 

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Screen shot? 

Access the website from cellphone, sign in, access thread.  Click on where I circled below.

choose option to take a photo (rather than to choose from stored photos)

take photo and click to accept it

it can post without storage needed

 

 

Edited by Pen
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Sticks can be an awesome help in training!!!

Sort of like a ball, but in many ways better because a renewable resource and they can be used to point something out with tip if the dog can be trained to target the tip.

they can be a lure and also a play reward! 

And non fattening.  

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2 minutes ago, Pen said:

Sticks can be an awesome help in training!!!

Sort of like a ball, but in many ways better because a renewable resource and they can be used to point something out with tip if the dog can be trained to target the tip.

they can be a lure and also a play reward! 

And non fattening.  

Can be????

@sheryl you have a Labrador Retriever. This dog's instincts are to retrieve. Honor that and nurture it. Shape it.

Find an appropriate toy that can be retrieved. Then trade item for threats. Then toss the object again. Make it fun.

Never, ever, ever discourage this sort of behavior.

Bill

 

 

 

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Lure is basically what the English word indicates.

If she can be taught to follow the end of the stick, then, say,

you want her to get in a vehicle — use the stick to lure her in (that is she follows the stick) 

you want her to jump over a low barrier—have her follow the stick

up on vet exam table —  follow the stick

onto a dog mat — follow stick

 

 

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Bill and Pen, thanks!   In theory though, wouldn't any toy you throw be retrievable?   IOW, breeder sent home a soft cheeseburger toy.  I throw it and she has great delight in fetching it and bringing it back.  We'll have to work on "drop it" before we throw again.   (not reach in and pull out of her mouth.  i'm not afraid she'll bite but don't think that's appropriate.  the reward of another toss follows her dropping the retrieved object).  

On another note then, since y'all are so pet-smart, what would you suggest for:
shampoo
heartworm prevention
flea/tick

I prefer a systemic and not topical treatment for 2 and 3.  Shampoo is obviously topical. 

Katie, so glad y'all seem to be spared.  Have you talked with your parents?

Edited by sheryl
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I've been known to use just our human shampoos on our doggies upon occasion (and sometimes our cats as well). But I do have one piece of advice there which is to bathe weekly at a minimum, not just "when the dog stinks". You don't seem like the type to do the latter, but I feel it's good for their health and also for getting them used to bathing.

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2 hours ago, sheryl said:

Bill and Pen, thanks!   In theory though, wouldn't any toy you throw be retrievable? 

 

Yep.  And that’s great!

a stick is a particularly fabulous item for dog to be interested in because of how easy it is for human to hold one end and make the other end move to a desired spot.  

Much easier to indicate jump over this low fence with a stick than with a ball or stuffed cheeseburger.    Especially useful if dog seems interested in sticks in nature in general as these awesome tools can be found in many places and it doesn’t have to be a specific unusual man made stick . 

Top pic, she seems to be sniffing something stick like, with great interest and showing a bit of drive.  

  Pic 2 she’s giving a very good sit for her age, with alert ears, and attention seemingly focused halfway (or rather simultaneously aware of both) between stick and human off camera.  

Bottom pic: almost in a show-dog stacked  stance, “giving ears” and eyes looking well focused and alert (don’t worry what that means, just it looks good to me for a new pup) —not sure if the branch thing just happened to be there like on a tree, or if a human handler is using it to add some control.  

Quote

 IOW, breeder sent home a soft cheeseburger toy.  I throw it and she has great delight in fetching it and bringing it back.  We'll have to work on "drop it" before we throw again.   

 

Great!   I like to use two toys and try for release of toy 1 right to my hand via a trade for the second toy.  Or trade for food treat. 

Quote

(not reach in and pull out of her mouth.  i'm not afraid she'll bite but don't think that's appropriate. 

You can work separately on being able to examine her mouth and bite inhibition

Quote

the reward of another toss follows her dropping the retrieved object).  

Yes good

Quote

On another note then, since y'all are so pet-smart, what would you suggest for:
shampoo
heartworm prevention
flea/tick

 

I’m using Nexgard, but only during flea season.  We do dog bathing when something like a skunk happens, so rarely a dog shampoo.  I do have some soothing dog oatmeal soap from our vet (if he gets in stuff giving him contact allergy).   We are in a micro-area so far blessedly free of heartworm.  

Quote



I prefer a systemic and not topical treatment for 2 and 3.  Shampoo is obviously topical. 

Katie, so glad y'all seem to be spared.  Have you talked with your parents?

 

Edited by Pen
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7 hours ago, sheryl said:


shampoo
heartworm prevention
flea/tick

My dog is eight next week, we got him at 11 weeks old. In all that time he has consistently been bathed every 10-12 days. I used to use very expensive, specialty products that are typically only used for show dogs or other dogs who are kept in full coat (think products that are way more expensive than most people would think of buying for their own hair; these are not products you can walk into a pet store and buy). A few years ago I got tired of spending that much, having to special order, etc., and started using Pantene on him. There are quite a few show dog people who swear by either Pantene or Dove products for their dogs. Mine has done fine with Pantene, just as well as he did on the much more expensive products.

There is little/no truth to the idea that dogs need different products than humans due to pH levels. First of all, the range of pH levels in human products tends to be very close to the range found in dog products. Also, there's a range of skin pH among various dog breeds. This is the best article I'm aware of on the subject (make sure to click and read the link to the pH article from 2011).

Now--would I use a human product on a dirty dog who is only bathed every few months (most dogs who aren't bathed regularly are in fact very dirty, despite owners who claim otherwise)? No, I probably wouldn't. I don't know if a human product would adequately clean those dogs. I also probably wouldn't use a human product on a wire coated dog. But for dogs who aren't terribly dirty or smelly or wire haired -- I think human products work fine.

For fleas/ticks I use Nexgard.

For heart worms I use Heartgard.

ETA: In my long winded reply about shampoos I forgot to say -- If you prefer to use a dog specific product then just about anything you can pick up at Petsmart, Petco, etc. should work okay. I've liked all the TropiClean products I've used. Some Walmart stores (and maybe Target, too) usually stock a few Oster dog shampoos and I've liked them, too. I personally don't like Burt's Bees dog product line. The ones I've used are too watery and didn't seem to clean/fluff very well. But I need products that leave my dog's coat fluffy (makes clipping him better/easier), so what I need in a product may be different than what you need.

Edited by Pawz4me
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PS I’m not sure about PH issue—and I don’t deal with showing or breeds who need to be trimmed...

But dogs generally (or at least the breed and breed mixtures I’ve dealt with) and Labs in particular seem to have natural protective fur oils which help them stay warm and dry and also it has Vitamin D from sun that they then get when they lick themselves (like D Vitamin from sheep lanolin).  

Ours very likely *is* dirty as Paws4me says of dogs who don’t get bathed regularly, but he gets to keep most of his natural oils for when he goes swimming or is rained on, and for his D vitamins. And he smells wonderful! Like some amazing light natural dog musk.   Every time he has to get soap bathed it strips his natural oils. 

Edited by Pen
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LabradortrainingHQ.com: 

 

Bathing Your Labrador Retriever

As mentioned, Labrador Retrievers have a short coat that’s very dense. This means you don’t typically have to get tangles or mats out and can go longer between grooming than you would be able to with other breeds. In fact, many owners of labs will only bathe their dogs a few times a year.

The exception to this rule would be if your pooch gets really dirty and simply must be cleaned. Labrador owners quickly learn this breed enjoys rolling around in dirt, mud, and questionable messes. You will want to give them a bath following these escapades.

Remember that bathing your pooch too often can dry their skin, laying a foundation for problems. This happens because Labradors have a special oil on their coat which works to prevent dry skin and protect them from dirt. Frequent washing will remove the oil leading to health problems

 

———

I added the underline and italics in last paragraph.    

If you do bathe her soon even just to get her used to it, be careful of temperature and not to let soap / shampoo get in her eyes if you use any

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Possibly chlorine would be a problem for the oils too.  We have non-chlorinated well water and non-chlorinated  creeks where dog goes swimming, so I don’t know about that part. 

PS I didn’t realize that the oils in fur for Labs and other breeds I have had might not apply to other dogs till I saw the Lab forum information  I quoted from. 

Edited by Pen
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15 hours ago, sheryl said:

Bill and Pen, thanks!   In theory though, wouldn't any toy you throw be retrievable?   IOW, breeder sent home a soft cheeseburger toy.  I throw it and she has great delight in fetching it and bringing it back.  We'll have to work on "drop it" before we throw again.   (not reach in and pull out of her mouth.  i'm not afraid she'll bite but don't think that's appropriate.  the reward of another toss follows her dropping the retrieved object).  

On another note then, since y'all are so pet-smart, what would you suggest for:
shampoo
heartworm prevention
flea/tick

I prefer a systemic and not topical treatment for 2 and 3.  Shampoo is obviously topical. 

Katie, so glad y'all seem to be spared.  Have you talked with your parents?

Shampoo: i stick with mild, non drying shampoos in order to not strip the oils too much. My absolute favorite is hard to find - I often buy it by the gallon from a grooming supply place - it is called Bark 2 Basics Oatmeal. They make a ton but that is the one I've used and loved - it is unreal how much nicer my dog's coats are when I use it. Otherwise, never Hartz, and it has to not smell unbelievably strong cause that's mean. 

Heartworm - I use heartgard or a generic of it but also think Interceptor is a good product. 

Flea/Tick - nothing except on my flea allergic dog who gets various products - comforts or Nexgaurd usually. 

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As far as what shampoo to use on dogs, I've always loved the oatmeal ones but because of celiac in our family I have had to switch to a gluten free one even though we try not to lick the dog.  😉   (Edited to say that the serious reason we switched was out of an abundance of caution and because we do pet the dog as well as the wrestling a wet soapy dog can end up with flecks of shampoo everywhere including our faces. . . ) 

I get a combination heartworm/ flea/ tick med from our vet. 

Edited by Jean in Newcastle
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On flea etc med the one I use (Nexgard) comes from vet, and you should ask about those sorts of meds at your visit.  Not everything is safe for a little puppy.  And Maybe you won’t need a flea med till heading into flea season next summer.  We’ve often not used them at all, but current dog has bad flea allergy.  

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2 hours ago, Jean in Newcastle said:

As far as what shampoo to use on dogs, I've always loved the oatmeal ones but because of celiac in our family I have had to switch to a gluten free one even though we try not to lick the dog.  😉   (Edited to say that the serious reason we switched was out of an abundance of caution and because we do pet the dog as well as the wrestling a wet soapy dog can end up with flecks of shampoo everywhere including our faces. . . ) 

I get a combination heartworm/ flea/ tick med from our vet. 

 

Wow.  Didn’t think of the gluten in shampoo/soap!  Thanks for mentioning it.  

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7 hours ago, Pen said:

 

 

LabradortrainingHQ.com: 

 

Bathing Your Labrador Retriever

Remember that bathing your pooch too often can dry their skin, laying a foundation for problems. This happens because Labradors have a special oil on their coat which works to prevent dry skin and protect them from dirt. Frequent washing will remove the oil leading to health problems

 

———

I added the underline and italics in last paragraph.    

If you do bathe her soon even just to get her used to it, be careful of temperature and not to let soap / shampoo get in her eyes if you use any

Most groomers and vets will tell you the bolded is a myth. There was probably some truth to it decades ago when the few pet shampoos that were available were all extremely harsh. That hasn't been true for a very long time. The dogs I know who are bathed the most are the ones who have the best skin and coats. But of course correlation doesn't equal causation--the dogs I know who are bathed the most are also the ones whose owners try to feed them the best (which varies depending on the dog), make sure they're kept flea free, make sure they get plenty of exercise, etc.

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17 hours ago, Pen said:

 

Yep.  And that’s great!

a stick is a particularly fabulous item for dog to be interested in because of how easy it is for human to hold one end and make the other end move to a desired spot.  

Much easier to indicate jump over this low fence with a stick than with a ball or stuffed cheeseburger.    Especially useful if dog seems interested in sticks in nature in general as these awesome tools can be found in many places and it doesn’t have to be a specific unusual man made stick . 

Top pic, she seems to be sniffing something stick like, with great interest and showing a bit of drive.  

  Pic 2 she’s giving a very good sit for her age, with alert ears, and attention seemingly focused halfway (or rather simultaneously aware of both) between stick and human off camera.  

Bottom pic: almost in a show-dog stacked  stance, “giving ears” and eyes looking well focused and alert (don’t worry what that means, just it looks good to me for a new pup) —not sure if the branch thing just happened to be there like on a tree, or if a human handler is using it to add some control.  

 

Great!   I like to use two toys and try for release of toy 1 right to my hand via a trade for the second toy.  Or trade for food treat. 

You can work separately on being able to examine her mouth and bite inhibition

Yes good

 

I’m using Nexgard, but only during flea season.  We do dog bathing when something like a skunk happens, so rarely a dog shampoo.  I do have some soothing dog oatmeal soap from our vet (if he gets in stuff giving him contact allergy).   We are in a micro-area so far blessedly free of heartworm.  

 

Good idea.   DD and I tried your technique today - 2 toys.  Toss one and Shiloh brings it back.  Reward her with another toy!  It's great!  

 

 

 

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4 minutes ago, Pen said:

This is from a year ago.

https://www.dogster.com/dog-grooming/how-often-to-bathe-a-dog-depends-on-these-factors

 

maybe best ask your vet, or on Labrador forums for up to date advice.

That's pretty accurate. I've had various dogs that required different levels of bathing. But as Pawz said above, with the newer mild shampoos you don't have to worry about over bathing. Once a week is totally doable and won't hurt them, if you want to do that. Or you can bathe less often. If doggy is a house doggy and you don't like your home to smell of doggy once a month at minimum probably. 

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