New Puppy we are considering! Need list to buy and questions! UPDATE !!! SEPT 4, May 3 - PICTURES!!!

[sheryl]

2 hours ago, Pen said:

Sit luring—word is being used, but dog in film is following lure ...  

if you’re not sure you can use the food (or toy) lure to get the dog to follow the lure into sit position, don’t use the word sit, because dog will associate the word with whatever the dog ends up doing  and will learn a wrong meaning for the word

 

 

Pen, thanks.  I watched all the videos.  Robert Cabrel's (sp?) was interesting and I tried it.  It's harder than it looks.  But, we'll keep at it.  Several training sessions and each session short during the day.  Consistency is improvement.  In time I'll know she'll catch on to these.  I don't thin the breeder did any training.  I thought she would have just naturally incorporated into their routine some of the basics like sit and come.  It appears not.  Shiloh will get it.   

eta:  i like ceramic but didn't want it broken so we bought new stainless steel bowls with rubberized grips on bottom.  I was told by breeder that Shiloh's sister had a bad habit of playing in the water bowl!!!!!!!!!!!!!  

 

 

Edited September 7, 2019 by sheryl

[Pawz4me]

43 minutes ago, sheryl said:

   

eta:  i like ceramic but didn't want it broken so we bought new stainless steel bowls with rubberized grips on bottom.  I was told by breeder that Shiloh's sister had a bad habit of playing in the water bowl!!!!!!!!!!!!!  

 

 

It's a common issue with lots of puppies, especially breeds that generally like water. There are a number of other tricks you can try if the rubber grips don't work. This is one problem for which a stand can help. You can also put a water bowl inside a bucket, and even weight the bucket down with a brick or two if necessary. That's not exactly an aesthetically pleasing solution, but it's usually needed only for a limited amount of time.

[Pen]

Crouch down, open your arms enticingly and say “puppy, puppy, puppy” pretty fast rate sort of like people say kitty kitty kitty...   

a lot of puppies will have learned that to be essentially “come” - not like an obedience competition type of come, but reasonably effective in a home (not to distracting) environment.  

[Pawz4me]

10 minutes ago, Pen said:

Crouch down, open your arms enticingly and say “puppy, puppy, puppy” pretty fast rate sort of like people say kitty kitty kitty...   

a lot of puppies will have learned that to be essentially “come” - not like an obedience competition type of come, but reasonably effective in a home (not to distracting) environment.  

LOL, yes!

The current pooch thinks "Goodbye" means "come." I know it's weird, but it works for him. He's always been really attached to me, so when he was a young puppy and stubbornly wouldn't come in from outside (safely fenced area), I'd cheerily say "Goodbye!" and step inside, and he learned to come running. Not exactly a standard command, but as long as it works who cares? I'm all about doing what works for the dog, especially for dogs who are "just" pets.

[Pen]

Or this little story: 

Two dogs met for the first time. “Hi,” said one, “my name is ‘No no bad dog’ what’s yours?”

[sheryl]

Pen, this was mentioned a few pages ago re: anchoring bowl.  Well, actually it pertained to slowing the eating process of the dog when she gets to be an adult.  I'm "assuming" she'll inhale and she might not.  I learned the tennis ball is not a good idea b/c Shiloh could pick off the fuzz.  I suppose a large enough stone the size of a tennis ball would anchor the bowl and pace her food intake.  🙂 

[sheryl]

THANK YOU to all of you who have shared your dog training wisdom with me!   You know who you are! 🙂

One more question - I'm doing most of the training but dh and dd are as well to a lesser amount b/c they are home less.  So far we're working on:

Come
Bite Inhibition (using Bill's technique) 
Sit
Stand
Down (laying down)
Stay 
Potty (she's getting really good at this)
Next: release
 

She'll be allowed to go "out into the world" LOL Sept 27 or so.  I have not started heel or walking with her inside.  Should I add that to the above list or hone in more on the above list first?  Also, come - 12 inches away then add more distance b/t S and me, dh, dd.   This is inside.  Same technique for outside?   Teach come outside before taking her on short walks? 

Stay - for how long?  5 seconds, reward.  Repeat and add time?  Start with 15 seconds then extend time?   

Release - I used this with our 2nd lab.  Bill, I think you said you did this?   But, with Jordan she would sit for her meal and she had to stay put until I spoke release.  Then she inhaled her food! LOL!  Do you use release in more than 1 scenario? 

 

[Pen]

Come is a great one to do with several people—calling her from person to person, then rewarding each time she gets to the person who called her.  

I don’t really work on stay much with little puppies.    Maybe start with 1 second. 

Set her up for success.  5 seconds sounds really long to me.  

I would probably work on loose leash walking gearing up for her September 27 debut.  

[Pen]

I wonder if the required wait before eating with your dog J built up so much tension it was itself something that increased the rapid eating of food? 

We do that sometimes with the Come game—once dog understands basic game, have someone hold onto the dog a little before letting her go to run to the person calling to really build up the desire to get to the calling person and that reward

Edited September 9, 2019 by Pen

[Spy Car]

No news is good news?

Bill

[sheryl]

17 minutes ago, Spy Car said:

No news is good news?

Bill

😂  Well, yes.  But, it's obvious we haven't had a puppy in years!   I got up 4 or 5 nights in the middle of the night and my dh once after we brought her home.  We did not detect that her crate was wet.  The local lab judge for our regional group/breeder said to set my alarm and get up to take her out.  Shiloh sleeps downstairs and we're upstairs.  With our other 2 labs we had make shift sleeping arrangements in our bedroom/area and they whimpered all night - but we didn't crate them.  Shiloh is a trooper.  So, on night 6 or so I decided to see if she'd sleep through the night and she has for the last 5 nights not needed to get up.  She sleeps through the night!!!!!  Now she goes first thing in the morning but isn't that good? She just turned 12 weeks on Monday.
Proper training is good.   I'm still confused if I'm supposed to pick and choose the most important ones or try to teach as many as possible.  She is ornery.  Hopefully that's just puppy.  She does "nip", Bill, and I'm "on it" with  your training method (as best as I can).    She LOVES the stick.  I haven't introduced it yet as I'm so busy with the others.  

She got her 2nd series of vacs Friday and is due for her 3rd 9/27.  

She's not going in to her crate on her own as I thought she would (find comfort in her nest area).   I'm training her to go in but was hoping she would choose to do that on her own for comfort.

I will try to upload another pic or two next week.  

Actually, it would be great if everyone who replied to this post would upload a pic of their beloved furry family member! 🙂

[Jean in Newcastle]

As long as she finds training fun, then go for it.  My puppies could always learn more than one command at a time.  Or at least one new one and one or two that we were still cementing.  If they start to do random things for a command (ie. sit, come, stay when you tell them something completely different like "shake") then you know that you need to slow down and cement each command.  

None of my dogs went to their crate for comfort though they didn't have a problem being in there at night.  They found my feet to be a bit more comforting.  😉

 

 

[Familia]

Just throwing this out there for slower eating - we used a KONG ball, puppy.  It was about the size of a tennis  ball, and she rolled it around in her crate to eat for the first few months.  Actually, now that I am remembering correctly, our dog had the opposite problem as a wee pup...she wouldn't eat and lallygagged.  The KONG ball in the crate did the trick! 

Now that I realize that I am forgetting details, and we have had her 1-½ years, it must be time to get another puppy LOL

[MercyA]

Shiloh is adorable!!! Congrats!!!

[sheryl]

On 9/12/2019 at 12:11 AM, MercyA said:

Shiloh is adorable!!! Congrats!!!

Thanks!

And, thanks to everyone.

Shiloh is coming along nicely.  She's NEVER had an accident in her crate.   We only got up 5-6 days in middle of night to let her out at roughly 4 am and after that she sleeps through the night from 10:30 pm - 7:30 am.  Boy is she growing! 🙂   She LOVES a stick!   One of you pp's said that and you're right.  I don't want to sort through 11 pages to found out who said it but you're right!

Biting still an issue but we're working on it and other commands.  She just had her 3rd series of puppy vacs this past Fri which included:  distemper/parvo, rabies and we added bordatella.  

When I researched a new vet for this puppy I visited to places.   I "thought" the first place said 4 series are required but the place I chose for other reasons said 3 series.   KATIE, thoughts?

So, Shiloh is now eligible to go out and mingle in the world with her vacs.  HA!   She's playing with her stick toy now.  And, she brought one in from outside.  She would likely be a great retriever (more than our other 2 labs -  maybe).  

I thought there was another question or two but don't remember now.  

[ktgrok]

4 hours ago, sheryl said:

Thanks!

And, thanks to everyone.

Shiloh is coming along nicely.  She's NEVER had an accident in her crate.   We only got up 5-6 days in middle of night to let her out at roughly 4 am and after that she sleeps through the night from 10:30 pm - 7:30 am.  Boy is she growing! 🙂   She LOVES a stick!   One of you pp's said that and you're right.  I don't want to sort through 11 pages to found out who said it but you're right!

Biting still an issue but we're working on it and other commands.  She just had her 3rd series of puppy vacs this past Fri which included:  distemper/parvo, rabies and we added bordatella.  

When I researched a new vet for this puppy I visited to places.   I "thought" the first place said 4 series are required but the place I chose for other reasons said 3 series.   KATIE, thoughts?

So, Shiloh is now eligible to go out and mingle in the world with her vacs.  HA!   She's playing with her stick toy now.  And, she brought one in from outside.  She would likely be a great retriever (more than our other 2 labs -  maybe).  

I thought there was another question or two but don't remember now.  

Every three to four weeks for at least three rounds. Some places do every month, and it works out to three visits. Some do every 3 weeks and it may work out to four visits, depending on when they start. But standard is 8wks, 12wks, and 16wks. Or often we did 8 wks, 12wks, and then at the 16 wk visit would do EITHER the DHPP and bordatella or the Rabies, and then have them come back in two weeks for whatever we didn't give. 

[sheryl]

1 hour ago, Ktgrok said:

Every three to four weeks for at least three rounds. Some places do every month, and it works out to three visits. Some do every 3 weeks and it may work out to four visits, depending on when they start. But standard is 8wks, 12wks, and 16wks. Or often we did 8 wks, 12wks, and then at the 16 wk visit would do EITHER the DHPP and bordatella or the Rabies, and then have them come back in two weeks for whatever we didn't give. 

OK, thanks.  The breeder is a vet tech as well and gave the first series.  I've taken her in for the 2nd and 3rd so I guess we're good to go.   Appreciate it, Katie!   🙂

[ktgrok]

8 minutes ago, sheryl said:

OK, thanks.  The breeder is a vet tech as well and gave the first series.  I've taken her in for the 2nd and 3rd so I guess we're good to go.   Appreciate it, Katie!   🙂

How old is she now? The important thing is making sure that last one is at or beyond about 16 weeks. 14-15 weeks is probably fine too. The idea is to make sure that last one is after maternal antibodies wear off. 

[sheryl]

9 minutes ago, Ktgrok said:

How old is she now? The important thing is making sure that last one is at or beyond about 16 weeks. 14-15 weeks is probably fine too. The idea is to make sure that last one is after maternal antibodies wear off. 

16 weeks - Oct. 7

But, they insisted there was no other vac!   Now I'm concerned.  I'll look at records and send this to you in this post in a day or two.  Would you look and advise?

[ktgrok]

9 minutes ago, sheryl said:

16 weeks - Oct. 7

But, they insisted there was no other vac!   Now I'm concerned.  I'll look at records and send this to you in this post in a day or two.  Would you look and advise?

She should be fine if she just had her 3rd one in the last few days, but will need her rabies vaccine still if she hasn't had it. usually done at 16 weeks

[sheryl]

2 minutes ago, Ktgrok said:

She should be fine if she just had her 3rd one in the last few days, but will need her rabies vaccine still if she hasn't had it. usually done at 16 weeks

She had her vacs 9/27.  That's about 10 days away from her 16 weeks.  What do you think?  They gave her rabies on Friday. 

[ktgrok]

23 minutes ago, sheryl said:

She had her vacs 9/27.  That's about 10 days away from her 16 weeks.  What do you think?  They gave her rabies on Friday. 

That should be fine. In Florida we have a law that it has to be at 16 weeks I think, but not everywhere does. We have a lot of endemic rabies in our raccoon population. But the vet would know. You should be good for a year. 

[sheryl]

12 minutes ago, Ktgrok said:

That should be fine. In Florida we have a law that it has to be at 16 weeks I think, but not everywhere does. We have a lot of endemic rabies in our raccoon population. But the vet would know. You should be good for a year. 

OK, thanks, Katie!  Appreciate it.  Why did they rush it? 

[ktgrok]

21 minutes ago, sheryl said:

OK, thanks, Katie!  Appreciate it.  Why did they rush it? 

I'm guessing it just got wonky - like breeder started at 6 weeks maybe instead of 8 which threw things off. Or that somewhere down the line one of the vets or breeder was doing an every 3 weeks schedule and another was on the every 4 weeks plan so it ended up that the last one fell at 14 weeks rather than 16. Not a big deal, I promise. The idea is to get at least one dose in during the time when maternal antibodies have worn off, but not wait so late that the dog is exposed to disease before you give the vaccine and it takes effect. So that's why the series, they don't REALLY need that many doses, you just don't know when those maternal antibodies will wear off (and until they do the vaccine won't work - maternal antibodies will fight the vaccine). So you start earlier than you think and go until past when you think, just to be sure. 

[Pen]

How’s puppy doing?  

I want a puppy.

Not in winter in our climate though.  

[sheryl]

10 hours ago, Ktgrok said:

I'm guessing it just got wonky - like breeder started at 6 weeks maybe instead of 8 which threw things off. Or that somewhere down the line one of the vets or breeder was doing an every 3 weeks schedule and another was on the every 4 weeks plan so it ended up that the last one fell at 14 weeks rather than 16. Not a big deal, I promise. The idea is to get at least one dose in during the time when maternal antibodies have worn off, but not wait so late that the dog is exposed to disease before you give the vaccine and it takes effect. So that's why the series, they don't REALLY need that many doses, you just don't know when those maternal antibodies will wear off (and until they do the vaccine won't work - maternal antibodies will fight the vaccine). So you start earlier than you think and go until past when you think, just to be sure. 

Katie, appreciate this scenario.  That makes sense to me now.  Well, I think I'll address it and see what they have to say as she turns 16 weeks a week from today.  Good info!  Thanks! 

[sheryl]

10 hours ago, Pen said:

How’s puppy doing?  

I want a puppy.

Not in winter in our climate though.  

Hi Pen, thanks for asking.  Shiloh's doing good!  She sure is a good dog.  Good temperament, great build, smart, fun, eager to learn.  I have to tell you though it's harder to have a puppy now as we're 15 years older and we waited almost 3 years when our last lab passed away (before Shiloh).  We got used to coming and going without making arrangements - that's the biggest thing.  But, it's so worth it.  She's a joy.  Dh took her on her first walk off our property on Saturday!  She enjoyed it.  Now that my sciatica is better I'll walk her up the street here in a bit.  

I don't even know the rule of distance for walking a puppy almost 4 months.  Our previous lab - I walked her as a puppy one night and it must have been too far b/c she seemed tired so quickly.    We'll start short and increase distance over time.

She's grown quite a bit.  She's standing at the opened front door looking out with that lab posture.  Cute.  

[sheryl]

Wow! Here we are 7 months later and Shiloh is approaching 10.5 years of age!  Still a puppy but oh so big. Will get pictures to you but quickly glanced at this thread to search for info that I need.

I'm just now starting a harness. She's big and powerful.   Many of you suggested Martingale for IG's but Shiloh is a 10  month/61 lb puppy!  

What type of harness would you recommend?  We've been training her regularly but we still need to improve in her "not" pulling and of course tweaking all commands.  Off hend stay she has not gravitated to.  I need to up my training with her.  I have her off leash in front yard and she's fine until she sees a neighbor or a kids' toy in the street then she bolts off. 

Lastly, what type of brush?  She sheds like crazy!   Maybe more than any pet we've had.

I'll get pics up in the near future.  Thanks. 

 

[Pen]

23 minutes ago, sheryl said:

Wow! Here we are 7 months later and Shiloh is approaching 10.5 years of age!  Still a puppy but oh so big. Will get pictures to you but quickly glanced at this thread to search for info that I need.

I'm just now starting a harness. She's big and powerful.   Many of you suggested Martingale for IG's but Shiloh is a 10  month/61 lb puppy!  

What type of harness would you recommend?

 

I love the harness I shared up thread for car safety.  

But it isn’t especially for not pulling.  In fact harnesses tend to be used for cart and sled dogs for them to pull more easily!

I would teach her to walk nicely with no collar, and a plain collar, Martingale as others suggested, or a prong collar (they don’t tend to be as bad for dogs as they look to humans—all but one of my dogs has liked prong collar as it is associated with going special places. )

23 minutes ago, sheryl said:

  We've been training her regularly but we still need to improve in her "not" pulling and of course tweaking all commands.  Off hend stay she has not gravitated to.  I need to up my training with her.  I have her off leash in front yard and she's fine until she sees a neighbor or a kids' toy in the street then she bolts off. 

 

Try to find somewhere you can work with her with less exciting  distractions, and graduate to neighbor or toy.   Each time she does that she is reinforcing doing that. 

23 minutes ago, sheryl said:

Lastly, what type of brush?  She sheds like crazy!   Maybe more than any pet we've had.

I'll get pics up in the near future.  Thanks. 

 

 

Love Zoom groom!  Or similar. 

[sheryl]

2 hours ago, Pen said:

 

I love the harness I shared up thread for car safety.  

But it isn’t especially for not pulling.  In fact harnesses tend to be used for cart and sled dogs for them to pull more easily!

I would teach her to walk nicely with no collar, and a plain collar, Martingale as others suggested, or a prong collar (they don’t tend to be as bad for dogs as they look to humans—all but one of my dogs has liked prong collar as it is associated with going special places. )

I'll  try - back to beginner basic then, I guess. I'll combine what others suggested with yours.  Walk in hallway.  I could only teach her collar free walking in my sister's yard which is fenced.  We do not have a fenced in yard.  One of my goals for Shiloh is for her to "be" outside with us leash-free (talking, working on house/yard, talking with friends/neighbors and NOT jump  on people or fun off our property.   We  live on a cul-de-sac so I was going to go "back" and walk the 1/10 (one-way) street.   She actually does OK not ideal on a walk BUT she is so STRONG!  He's like a mack truck.  Is this what you're suggesting?

Try to find somewhere you can work with her with less exciting  distractions, and graduate to neighbor or toy.   Each time she does that she is reinforcing doing that. 

I can only go to my sister's and that is not daily. In the sentence above  what is "that"? 

Love Zoom groom!  Or similar. 

 

[Pen]

17 minutes ago, sheryl said:

 

 

“That” is ... whatever she is doing, but specifically I meant presumably bolting toward a toy or neighbor or some other fun and interesting thing.  

The toy or neighbor or for that matter your heightened emotion trying to restrain her is probably a reinforcer.  

You might see if at least with a collar and leash on you have places to practice walking nicely with you.  Possibly right by a house wall if any is available to keep her straight and reward with favorite toy , yummy food, etc.  a lot of rewarding, very little time on task.  Set her up to succeed even if just for 30 seconds and it’s done for that session. 

And could be a time likely not to encounter neighbors or toys, like ? 5 am? 

 

I also try to show my dogs their yard edges .  It is kind of confusing to them. But I’ll use some edge they can recognize (gate is best, but lacking that something like grass edge) and teach them that inside the gate, or on their side of grass vs sidewalk edge is good, but to go out gate or onto sidewalk they need permission.  (I tend to use “take a break” for this ideA. And “wait” until I am ready for them to go off property.   It isn’t perfect, but does help.) 

Maybe @Ktgrok or Some other dog people will chime in! 😊

[sheryl]

49 minutes ago, Pen said:

 

“That” is ... whatever she is doing, but specifically I meant presumably bolting toward a toy or neighbor or some other fun and interesting thing.  

The toy or neighbor or for that matter your heightened emotion trying to restrain her is probably a reinforcer.  

You might see if at least with a collar and leash on you have places to practice walking nicely with you.  Possibly right by a house wall if any is available to keep her straight and reward with favorite toy , yummy food, etc.  a lot of rewarding, very little time on task.  Set her up to succeed even if just for 30 seconds and it’s done for that session. 

And could be a time likely not to encounter neighbors or toys, like ? 5 am? 

 

I also try to show my dogs their yard edges .  It is kind of confusing to them. But I’ll use some edge they can recognize (gate is best, but lacking that something like grass edge) and teach them that inside the gate, or on their side of grass vs sidewalk edge is good, but to go out gate or onto sidewalk they need permission.  (I tend to use “take a break” for this ideA. And “wait” until I am ready for them to go off property.   It isn’t perfect, but does help.) 

Maybe @Ktgrok or Some other dog people will chime in! 😊 

I can "usually" take her out during the morning.   Neighbor kids are sleeping in and not out of house too early.   Since school is out for rest of school year I think they are sleeping in a bit.  So, I can do that for a short time in our front yard.    And, still go to my sister's if needed.

I do NOT understand the harness. I will need one b/c she is a big girl - STRONG!  So the Martingale that IG owners use - is that good for a strong lab? She's a puppy but adult size.

[Pen]

27 minutes ago, sheryl said:

I can "usually" take her out during the morning.   Neighbor kids are sleeping in and not out of house too early.   Since school is out for rest of school year I think they are sleeping in a bit.  So, I can do that for a short time in our front yard.    And, still go to my sister's if needed.

I do NOT understand the harness. I will need one b/c she is a big girl - STRONG!  So the Martingale that IG owners use - is that good for a strong lab? She's a puppy but adult size.

 

I personally prefer a Sprenger prong collar. With rubber tips is nice if dog is sensitive. 

Well, recently because of CV19 my dog had an outdoor vet visit with a busy street nearby .  He was wearing 2 collars and a harness, part of the time clipped to my waist, and part of the time to a heavy piece of exam room equipment , just in case. 

But generally, if he really wanted to, he could pull me right off my feet were he to suddenly bolt while having a harness on.  

He isn’t any sort of competition puller, but can probably pull close to 200pounds (about 3x his weight) if he’s a mind to, maybe more.

The harness is good in car because in an accident he’d be less likely to go through windshield or break his neck from a collar.

It is good in the open vet office scenario because he can’t slip it easily or have the links fly apart. 

Edited May 3, 2020 by Pen

[sheryl]

1 hour ago, Pen said:

 

I personally prefer a Sprenger prong collar. With rubber tips is nice if dog is sensitive. 

Well, recently because of CV19 my dog had an outdoor vet visit with a busy street nearby .  He was wearing 2 collars and a harness, part of the time clipped to my waist, and part of the time to a heavy piece of exam room equipment , just in case. 

But generally, if he really wanted to, he could pull me right off my feet were he to suddenly bolt while having a harness on.  

He isn’t any sort of competition puller, but can probably pull close to 200pounds (about 3x his weight) if he’s a mind to, maybe more.

The harness is good in car because in an accident he’d be less likely to go through windshield or break his neck from a collar.

It is good in the open vet office scenario because he can’t slip it easily or have the links fly apart. 

Pen,  I've searched for this Sprenger harness of which you and Bill and perhaps others speak but I'm not finding the Sprenger name with rubber tips.  Although I have only tried Amazon.

[Pen]

1 hour ago, sheryl said:

Pen,  I've searched for this Sprenger harness of which you and Bill and perhaps others speak but I'm not finding the Sprenger name with rubber tips.  Although I have only tried Amazon.

 

The basic prong collar is like this: 

 

Herm Sprenger Pet Supply Imports Chrome Plated Training Collar with Quick Release Snap for Dogs https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00074VZAS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_OuKREbFD3XV29

 

I particularly  like the quick release attachment.  

Size depends on size of your dog’s neck.  You can buy extra links if you need it longer but don’t want a thicker linked one.  You can buy separate rubber tips.  They have to be correct size to fit the collar you choose, but the tips don’t have to be from Sprenger.  

I’m concerned that some Amazon customer comments say they got knockoffs, not real Sprenger.  Possibly another source than Amazon would be better. Cherrybrook or Foster and Smith or some such. I have not had to buy a prong collar for decades since unless they get lost the real thing lasts through many dogs. 

 

This is sort of thing are tips, don’t know anything about the company but will give you an image: 

Gaity Pet, Vinyl Comfort Tips for Dog Prong Training Collars, 30 Tips per Pack - Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079K8TMR2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_cCKREbYX1NPKS

 

 

 

[Pen]

Sorry links not working for me now. But copy and paste I hope will for you! 

[Jean in Newcastle]

While I use a prong collar (and lots of training) with my Rottie mix, I used a Halti harness https://www.amazon.com/Halti-Front-Control-Harness-Medium/dp/B004W78GGC

with my Springers.  The halti harness is like reins for a horse.  It pulls from the front so if the dog is pulling, they are turned towards you.  It worked very well for my Springer with Puppy ADHD. 

[sheryl]

Here's our girl Shiloh!  Pictures as promised.  She's 10 1/2 months old and she 1st birthday is June 17.

Maybe by then we can have a dog party LOL!

Edit:   Christmas pic - she was 6.5 months
          Profile she was maybe 8 - 9 mo
          3rd down/frontal she was 7 months
          4th video taken this weekend at 10 1/2 months   She is a BIG stick and ball girl!   🙂

Edited May 3, 2020 by sheryl

[sheryl]

12 hours ago, Pen said:

 

The basic prong collar is like this: 

 

Herm Sprenger Pet Supply Imports Chrome Plated Training Collar with Quick Release Snap for Dogs https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00074VZAS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_OuKREbFD3XV29

 

I particularly  like the quick release attachment.  

Size depends on size of your dog’s neck.  You can buy extra links if you need it longer but don’t want a thicker linked one.  You can buy separate rubber tips.  They have to be correct size to fit the collar you choose, but the tips don’t have to be from Sprenger.  

I’m concerned that some Amazon customer comments say they got knockoffs, not real Sprenger.  Possibly another source than Amazon would be better. Cherrybrook or Foster and Smith or some such. I have not had to buy a prong collar for decades since unless they get lost the real thing lasts through many dogs. 

 

This is sort of thing are tips, don’t know anything about the company but will give you an image: 

Gaity Pet, Vinyl Comfort Tips for Dog Prong Training Collars, 30 Tips per Pack - Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079K8TMR2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_cCKREbYX1NPKS

 

 

 

Hmmm.   Sprenger counterfeit.  Who would've thought!  I can find one locally and Walmart online sells them!  Thanks for the tip!

10 hours ago, Jean in Newcastle said:

While I use a prong collar (and lots of training) with my Rottie mix, I used a Halti harness https://www.amazon.com/Halti-Front-Control-Harness-Medium/dp/B004W78GGC

with my Springers.  The halti harness is like reins for a horse.  It pulls from the front so if the dog is pulling, they are turned towards you.  It worked very well for my Springer with Puppy ADHD. 

You use a prong AND harness simultaneously?  

[Jean in Newcastle]

Just now, sheryl said:

 

You use a prong AND harness simultaneously?  

No.  I use a prong with my Rottweiler/Shepherd mix who is way too strong and didn't respond to a harness.  (She broke right out of a harness but now with training rarely pulls.  But I absolutely need to be able to restrain her if necessary.)    I used a harness with my Springer spaniels who were "squirrelly" and strong but yet responded well to the harness. 

[sheryl]

14 hours ago, Pen said:

 

The basic prong collar is like this: 

 

Herm Sprenger Pet Supply Imports Chrome Plated Training Collar with Quick Release Snap for Dogs https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00074VZAS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_OuKREbFD3XV29

 

I particularly  like the quick release attachment.  

Size depends on size of your dog’s neck.  You can buy extra links if you need it longer but don’t want a thicker linked one.  You can buy separate rubber tips.  They have to be correct size to fit the collar you choose, but the tips don’t have to be from Sprenger.  

I’m concerned that some Amazon customer comments say they got knockoffs, not real Sprenger.  Possibly another source than Amazon would be better. Cherrybrook or Foster and Smith or some such. I have not had to buy a prong collar for decades since unless they get lost the real thing lasts through many dogs. 

 

This is sort of thing are tips, don’t know anything about the company but will give you an image: 

Gaity Pet, Vinyl Comfort Tips for Dog Prong Training Collars, 30 Tips per Pack - Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079K8TMR2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_cCKREbYX1NPKS

 

 

 

Pen,

 In terms of measuring a dog for a Sprenger quick release training collar, dogs.com recommends the below:

Measure the circumference of dog's neck and add two inches.

Does this seem right to you?  You can reply here or on "the" thread.   Thanks, Pen! 

PS - I tried sending you a dm but it was full, I guess! 🙂 

 

[Pen]

1 hour ago, sheryl said:

Pen,

 In terms of measuring a dog for a Sprenger quick release training collar, dogs.com recommends the below:

Measure the circumference of dog's neck and add two inches.

Does this seem right to you?  You can reply here or on "the" thread.   Thanks, Pen! 

PS - I tried sending you a dm but it was full, I guess! 🙂 

 

 

Tbh, I don’t recall. I Purchased mine some 15-20 years or so ago.  Current dog is smaller so I took links out.

If you get bigger than you need now you can remove some links (be careful not to lose them) and put them back in if she grows. 

***The 3mm or 3.5mm or whatever is important and while you can add or remove links, you cannot change the gauge.  A Lab is basically a large size dog. ***

I have an extra alligator clip as well (direct from Sprenger, Germany iirc) . You totally don’t need that, but it’s brilliant for adding ability to do things with leashes like clip around waist with safety release for example. 

[Pen]

Yeah pm is full gotta clear some, but many have information I want and aI I have not had patience  to go through 1 by 1.  🙃

[sheryl]

OK, Pen, got it!  Thanks very, very much for your help!!!🐕

[Pen]

Yeah. If you need extra links you can buy them separately too. 

[Spy Car]

Here is the training collar I purchased (also made by Sprenger).

More expensive. Almost double. Probably about the same effectiveness. Perhaps more gentle (is that a "con"?) on a thick furred lab.

The big difference is that is less medieval-torture-device looking. Worth it to me to avoid problems with the uninformed (yet militantly ignorant) nuts out there.

From the linked photos on Amazon you can't see how smooth the  outside links are (the are reminiscent of a fancy men's stainless steel linked wristwatch with bigger links). Very "covert" vs the prong collar.

I've said before (but will repeat) a prong collar used properly can be good training insurance, especially in high stress/high danger situations, where good training habits might "break." They are humane, but they do not look humane. The extra $20 for a stealthy collar was was worth it to me for visits to the dog park (about the only time I ever used it).

Bill

https://www.amazon.com/Sprenger-Stainless-Training-No-Pull-Germany/dp/B07TJJS7QQ/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=neck%2Btech%2Bcollar&qid=1588547775&sr=8-3&srs=17600331011&th=1

 

 

 

Edited May 3, 2020 by Spy Car

[Pen]

Sprenger also makes a nylon prong collar collar cover btw.    It is also on their website.  

 

3 minutes ago, Spy Car said:

The big difference is that is less medieval-torture-device looking. Worth it to me to avoid problems with the uninformed (yet militantly ignorant) nuts out there.

 

 

[sheryl]

24 minutes ago, Spy Car said:

Here is the training collar I purchased (also made by Sprenger).

More expensive. Almost double. Probably about the same effectiveness. Perhaps more gentle (is that a "con"?) on a thick furred lab.

The big difference is that is less medieval-torture-device looking. Worth it to me to avoid problems with the uninformed (yet militantly ignorant) nuts out there.

From the linked photos on Amazon you can't see how smooth the  outside links are (the are reminiscent of a fancy men's stainless steel linked wristwatch with bigger links). Very "covert" vs the prong collar.

I've said before (but will repeat) a prong collar used properly can be good training insurance, especially in high stress/high danger situations, where good training habits might "break." They are humane, but they do not look humane. The extra $20 for a stealthy collar was was worth it to me for visits to the dog park (about the only time I ever used it).

Bill

https://www.amazon.com/Sprenger-Stainless-Training-No-Pull-Germany/dp/B07TJJS7QQ/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=neck%2Btech%2Bcollar&qid=1588547775&sr=8-3&srs=17600331011&th=1

 

 

 

Bill, thanks.   Yes, that does look familiar.  I pulled up the link.  The pics, ironically, don't show the "outside" of the collar but if my memory is correct it's more of a solid tile  look to which you mention is better because the prongs aren't visible. Right?  Are the prongs long enough for a  lab, really?  I'll definitely consider this one then. 

[Pen]

I’m Not Bill, but just to say, I’d think the protrusions would be plenty long enough for a Labrador.  

I’d be more concerned about it not being rapid release if anything went wrong.  It sounds like your dog is very exuberant and a bit apt to bolt away from you: if she got in a tricky situation—like bolting and then was caught by her collar on something,  I’d want to be able to do quick release. 

Maybe Bill @Spy Car can comment on the release aspect. 

[sheryl]

I thought Bill's was quick release.  Bill?

This is the first feature listed -

NECK TECH STAINLESS STEEL PRONG COLLAR WITH QUICK RELEASE BUCKLE