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SeaConquest
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If all goes well, we will be picking up a 16 week old Cavalier puppy on Sunday (Fingers crossed!! And, thank you to everyone who responded to my previous thread about it.). I haven't had a puppy in 17 years, so I feel like I am a little rusty. We live in an apartment, so the dog will need to be taken out to potty. 

 

Is crate training still the best way to potty train? I see so many people using pee pads inside. I would think this would send the dog mixed signals about where to potty. Any tips on house training?

 

I used a leash and collar with my cocker, but it seems that everyone uses harnesses these days. Are there any that you especially like for smaller dogs?

 

Any toys or training aids that are especially good?

 

Gosh, it feels like so long ago that I brought home a little pup. I feel a bit overwhelmed at the moment. Thanks for any advice.

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I have pics now, but I am afraid to jinx us. If Sunday works out, I will definitely post some!

 

Also, we will be required to neuter him. I neutered my Cocker when he was 6 months old, thinking that that was just what was done. I realize that today there is more debate on the timing of neutering. Does anyone have a science-based opinion on this issue?

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I used to think pee pads would send mixed signals, but they were a huge sanity saver when we got our Shih Tzu.  He picked up on using them right away but also understood about going outside.  Now he goes outside just about all the time, and I really miss the convenience of the pads.  At 16 weeks old your pup should have a bit of bladder and bowel control, so hopefully training will go quickly.

 

I don't primarily view crate training as being for house breaking.  Yes, it can be handy for that.  But IMO the main purposes are (1) for safety, (2) to give the pet a "room" of its own where it knows it can go for peace and quiet and (3) because knowing how to handle being crated is a skill all dogs should have.

 

My one piece of advice is to not let puppy get away with anything now that you don't want her doing for the rest of her (his?) life.  That's usually more of an issue with larger dogs -- sometimes what a small puppy does that's cute can be downright dangerous when it's a 75+ dog doing the same thing!  But it's still something to keep in mind.

Edited by Pawz4me
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I used to think pee pads would send mixed signals, but they were a huge sanity saver when we got our Shih Tzu.  He picked up on using them right away but also understood about going outside.  Now he goes outside just about all the time, and I really miss the convenience of the pads.  At 16 weeks old your pup should have a bit of bladder and bowel control, so hopefully training will go quickly.

 

I don't primarily view crate training as being for house breaking.  Yes, it can be handy for that.  But IMO the main purposes are (1) for safety, (2) to give the pet a "room" of its own where it knows it can go for peace and quiet and (3) because knowing how to handle being crated is a skill all dogs should have.

 

My one piece of advice is to not let puppy get away with anything now that you don't want her doing for the rest of her (his?) life.  That's usually more of an issue with larger dogs -- sometimes what a small puppy does that's cute can be downright dangerous when it's a 75+ dog doing the same thing!  But it's still something to keep in mind.

 

Thanks for all of your advice. My main concerns with my Cocker were fear biting and food possessiveness. I really really want this dog to be good with kids and other animals, and cool with travel/being in new surroundings. He is coming from a reputable breeder, with all the health checks, but I am still nervous about adding a dog to a family with young children.

 

What is your opinion about allowing a Cav to sleep with you?

Edited by SeaConquest
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We had great success with house breaking using the leash method. Puppy kept on the leash attached to an adult or responsible teen all the time. That way you can catch them sniffing around and get them outside to go. It's a full time job for a week if they are big enough to train. This also helps with protecting puppy from small children.

 

One of my dogs came to us very food possessive. She got fed by hand to begin with - one piece at a time while she has to sit quietly. Eventually she calmed down - took about a month before she relaxed and we still reinforce it every time we feed her (quiet waiting- don't approach bowl until released).

 

I don't sleep with my dogs but I know others do. Of course mine are 75+ pounds, so I wouldn't have a bed if they did.

Edited by AK_Mom4
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Thanks for all of your advice. My main concerns with my Cocker were fear biting and food possessiveness. I really really want this dog to be good with kids and other animals, and cool with travel/being in new surroundings. He is coming from a reputable breeder, with all the health checks, but I am still nervous about adding a dog to a family with young children.

 

What is your opinion about allowing a Cav to sleep with you?

 

Our Shih Tzu sleeps with us.  I don't buy into the notion that allowing a dog on the bed makes it think it's dominant or "alpha."  But I don't believe in much of that nonsense anyway -- the alpha/dominance theory was based on wolf studies that were highly flawed.

 

For the food possessiveness I'd work on teaching him a "give" command right away -- teach him to give you whatever object he has and then either give it right back to him or give him a higher value object.  The point is that he learns he never really loses when he gives you something.  Also feed him some by hand and teach him to take food gently.

 

I'd get him out everywhere I could right away and socialize, socialize, socialize!  At 16 weeks he should be fully vaccinated, so no worries about that.

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my favourite puppy resources are: 

dogmantics/kikopup  This puppy training video series is 34 clips http://dogmantics.com/puppy-training/   

and 

puppy socialization checklist http://www.petprofessionalguild.com/Resources/Documents/Puppy%20Socialization%20Check%20List.pdf

Ian Dunbar's Before You Get Your Puppy (free from the author) http://www.dogstardaily.com/files/BEFORE%20You%20Get%20Your%20Puppy.pdf
& his After You Get Your Puppy http://www.dogstardaily.com/files/downloads/AFTER_You_Get_Your_Puppy.pdf

Also Sophia Yin's Perfect Puppy in 7 Days 

 

I'm a little concerned how long this puppy was at the breeder. I'd want to know exactly what socialization protocols the breeder was using. The clock is ticking & socialization windows close fast....  If the breeder follows a plan like Puppy Culture - then great. https://www.puppyculture.com/  & has been filling out the puppy socialization checklist, then great. 


Otherwise, I wouldn't get the puppy without getting a serious dog person to look the pup over & ideally do some temperament testing of the puppy, sire & dam.  Stable, outgoing parents can make up for socialization deficits to an extent. 



 

Edited by hornblower
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If all goes well, we will be picking up a 16 week old Cavalier puppy on Sunday (Fingers crossed!! And, thank you to everyone who responded to my previous thread about it.). I haven't had a puppy in 17 years, so I feel like I am a little rusty. We live in an apartment, so the dog will need to be taken out to potty. 

 

Is crate training still the best way to potty train? I see so many people using pee pads inside. I would think this would send the dog mixed signals about where to potty. Any tips on house training?

 

I used a leash and collar with my cocker, but it seems that everyone uses harnesses these days. Are there any that you especially like for smaller dogs?

 

Any toys or training aids that are especially good?

 

Gosh, it feels like so long ago that I brought home a little pup. I feel a bit overwhelmed at the moment. Thanks for any advice.

 

Oh my, congratulations!

 

I use the Kurgo brand for harness, it doubles up as a car harness and is gentle on my dogs' skin (one of them is allergic to almost everything).

 

Our puppy is "being trained" by older dog but still has accidents sometimes. We use the treats when potty outside method. He caught on quite quickly that he won't get a treat if he potties inside but not all dogs learn that quickly. We've never used potty pads so no luck there. I am very cheap and don't like to spend on things like that unless I have to.

 

 

My one piece of advice is to not let puppy get away with anything now that you don't want her doing for the rest of her (his?) life.  That's usually more of an issue with larger dogs -- sometimes what a small puppy does that's cute can be downright dangerous when it's a 75+ dog doing the same thing!  But it's still something to keep in mind.

 

Oh my goodness, double triple yes! The puppy growls and play bites a lot and looks SO cute doing it but I quickly learned not to promote that behavior in any way. I gently back away when he does it but make it obvious that I will not play with him unless he calms down. I've also taught him to sit. When he gets all excited every morning when let out of his crate he immediately goes for my toes and tries to bite them from excitement. Now that he can sit, he gets a treat if he is sitting and calm and that has helped a lot (he is just over 4 months old).

 

Thanks for all of your advice. My main concerns with my Cocker were fear biting and food possessiveness. I really really want this dog to be good with kids and other animals, and cool with travel/being in new surroundings. He is coming from a reputable breeder, with all the health checks, but I am still nervous about adding a dog to a family with young children.

 

What is your opinion about allowing a Cav to sleep with you?

 

Definitely hand feed like a pp mentioned. It's harder to hand feed with my homecooked recipe (wetter) so I sometimes let him eat in his bowl but will gently insert my finger into the bowl while he is eating to get him used to someone interfering with his meals.

 

My dogs sleep in their crates in my room. They are not allowed on the bed. They do periodically get carried onto the bed for petting but only after they have worked for it (e.g. listened to sit stay commands) and I don't do it too often.

 

I am quite firm with the puppy. He gets a lot of petting when he comes to me calmly with ears back and head lowered but not when he is biting or growling or demanding attention. Once he gets the idea that he won't always get demands answered, I will gradually be less firm (but firm enough that he listens). Making rules clear in the beginning has always worked better than lavishing them with all sorts of attention and then having to manage bad behavior after that.

 

Good luck! S and R must be so excited!! Post pics soon! :)

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More thoughts:

  1. Once he has had all his shots, you will want to socialize him. Invite friends over regularly, introduce him cautiously to other dogs etc. Read up about leash reactive dogs and how to manage that.
  2. A good chew toy is worth its weight in gold. Especially when you and kids are busy and need some downtime away from managing a curious puppy's dietary habits. Since you are in an apartment it might be easier...ours devours everything in the yard, sticks, twigs, leaves, weed barrier, you name it.
  3. I've trained them both to come when called. Very helpful to do this young. Books available on Amazon, e.g. Total Recall. I've also trained them to come when I use a squeaky toy/ rattle their treats container.
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my favourite puppy resources are: 

 

dogmantics/kikopup  This puppy training video series is 34 clips http://dogmantics.com/puppy-training/   

 

and 

 

puppy socialization checklist http://www.petprofessionalguild.com/Resources/Documents/Puppy%20Socialization%20Check%20List.pdf

 

Ian Dunbar's Before You Get Your Puppy (free from the author) http://www.dogstardaily.com/files/BEFORE%20You%20Get%20Your%20Puppy.pdf

& his After You Get Your Puppy http://www.dogstardaily.com/files/downloads/AFTER_You_Get_Your_Puppy.pdf

 

Also Sophia Yin's Perfect Puppy in 7 Days 

 

I'm a little concerned how long this puppy was at the breeder. I'd want to know exactly what socialization protocols the breeder was using. The clock is ticking & socialization windows close fast....  If the breeder follows a plan like Puppy Culture - then great. https://www.puppyculture.com/  & has been filling out the puppy socialization checklist, then great. 

 

 

Otherwise, I wouldn't get the puppy without getting a serious dog person to look the pup over & ideally do some temperament testing of the puppy, sire & dam.  Stable, outgoing parents can make up for socialization deficits to an extent. 

 

 

 

 

 

If you don't mind, I am going to PM you more info.

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Also, we will be required to neuter him. I neutered my Cocker when he was 6 months old, thinking that that was just what was done. I realize that today there is more debate on the timing of neutering. Does anyone have a science-based opinion on this issue?

 

Sure. Read the three major studies on early spay-neuter to see the science based evidence that early neutering is profoundly unhealthful.

 

They are 1) The Rottweiler study, 2)The Golden Retriever study, and 3) The Vizsla study.

 

Increased cancer, increased obesity, increased anxiety, fear, and other behavioral issues, loss of vitality and muscle mass, increased hip dysplasia, and dramatically higher incidence of CCL (ligament) tears, which often come in pairs and run $3000-6000 per side to "correct" (imperfectly) via surgery.

 

Medical upsides (beyond sterilization)? None.

 

The veterinary evidence is conclusive. Since it runs against the agenda of so-called animal rights groups and rescues the truth that early neuter is an act of animal cruelty is suppressed. But is a profoundly anti-health procedure.

 

Read the veterinary studies and decide for yourself. 

 

Also not permitted under Halakha.

 

Bill

Edited by Spy Car
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Also, we will be required to neuter him. I neutered my Cocker when he was 6 months old, thinking that that was just what was done. I realize that today there is more debate on the timing of neutering. Does anyone have a science-based opinion on this issue?

 

There are lots of references in this article and some in this one, too. I plan to wait until at least 18 months to have my dog sterilized.

 

ETA: We are also required to sterilize our dog, but the breeder recommended waiting as long as possible, even up to 3 years of age. She said that in addition to the health benefits, dogs who are not spayed or neutered too early are prettier. :001_smile: She claims that cutting off the hormone supply too early causes some parts of the dog's body to grow disproportionally to others. Makes sense to me.

Edited by MercyA
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I plan to enroll him in obedience classes immediately, with the goal of passing the Good Citizenship test. If there are other things that you think we should do, or look for when we meet him, I would appreciate suggestions. 

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Favorite puppy items:

 

Crates like the Precision 2000, with moveable dividers.

Puppia soft harness

Potty bells

Nylabone puppy chew in pink or blue (chicken-flavored to hold interest; soft enough that I don't worry about cracked teeth; durable enough to actually last a while; not messy!)

Cat claw clippers for trimming nails

Boomerang slide-on tags (the best! No dangly, noisy tags to get caught on things.)

Edited by MercyA
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