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Which car repair to do first? Please advise.


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1996 Kia Safia - doesn't have any heat. runs fine (rough, but it gets there and back). Seats 4. Not much room for groceries, but does the job.

 

1998 Dodge Caravan - didn't pass inspection because the "Brake" light and "Check Engine" lights come on. Periodically does not have gauges (no speedometer which drives me nuts; no gas gauge although it does "ding" when the gas tank is near empty, no gear gauge). Seats 7 which takes our whole family to church. Right now Dh takes the kids in his truck which has 4 seats (two rear facing seats that are tiny) and ds23 has been taking me and one of the kids with him, but he works nights and often isn't home in time on Sun. morning to drive so I've been staying home. I can't drive the 20 miles there and back and sit through Sunday School and Church - too hard on my back. Holds lots of groceries. (Grocery store is 15 miles away and to save on gas I try not to go often so need space for several weeks' worth).

 

I took the Kia to a hayride Friday night. It was cold, drizzly, foggy on the drive home. I couldn't see well because the windshield kept fogging up. Kids were wet to the bone from riding on hayride when it started to rain. Had to drive with my window open to keep the windshield clear. Pain in the you know what!!! But, it got us there and back and it passed inspection.:D

 

Not sure how much either fix would be (heat vs. fix electrical problem re: lights and gauges).

 

What would you do?

 

FYI - I'm leaving soon to do grocery shopping. Will check in later to read replies. Thanks!

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The check engine light on is more than an electrical problem, but not as bad as you might think. It might just need a new fuel injector. That will run you about $40.00 Or it could just be a bad seal on your gas cap.

 

A heater core is relatively inexpensive. It might run you $50.00 for the part.

 

Honestly you should get a few estimates. You might be able to get the both of them fixed for less than you think.

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I'd fix the van. The brakes'll need to be fixed probably but that's important regardless.

 

The check engine light on my van has been on for years; there's a ton of harmless stuff that can cause that (as well as some serious issues, so don't ignore it - and if it flashes, pull over right away and shut it off).

 

In my car's case, there's an exhaust after-burner kind of thing that's not working so the car is emitting more pollutants than it's supposed to.

 

For inspection, the mechanic clears the codes for me and it lasts through the inspection. Usually lasts a couple days before it pops back up.

 

IMO, your caravan (unless it has a ton more miles than your kia) is going to be a longer-lasting car, cheaper to fix, and more versatile.

 

Good luck!

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1998 Dodge Caravan - didn't pass inspection because the "Brake" light and "Check Engine" lights come on. Periodically does not have gauges (no speedometer which drives me nuts; no gas gauge although it does "ding" when the gas tank is near empty, no gear gauge).
I know how to fix this! This is a common problem with these vehicles and it is extremely hard to diagnose. I have read horror stories of people paying Chrysler dealers $1000s of dollars and STILL not fixing the problem. I fixed ours in 20 minutes (once I found the solution) and did not have to spend a dime. It has been fine for years since then.

 

If you know someone handy, I can post a link to the problem. I'd be happy to take a look at it if you like.

 

ETA: I found the links, so I'll go ahead and provide them. This will explain the instrument cluster problem and the check engine light. If you pull codes you will likely get an indication of a problem with the wiring harness for the transmission, which has nothing to do with the issue. The real problem is that the communications bus on the vehicle is not grounded properly, so it throws codes when there is no other malfunction.

 

Here are a couple of links regarding the issue:

 

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=762227

 

http://forum.chryslerminivan.net/showthread.php/6310-98-T-amp-C-wont-start-battery-good

 

And here are two picture tutorials showing how to make the repairs:

 

 

http://ingriddijkers.com/CaravanPics.html

 

The brakes are almost certainly a separate problem, but I would fix the instrument cluster first, clear the codes and see if you get a new code for the brakes. If you do, then any mechanic can diagnose the brake problem.

 

Good luck!

Edited by RegGuheert
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Bump. I want to make sure you see this before you take your van in for service, Kathleen!!

 

I would NOT take it in to a mechanic with this problem without explaining that they MUST fix the solder joint in the dashboard first. If you get a mechanic who is unaware or unscrupulous, it could cost you thousands. A mechanic will have very little chance to correctly diagnose this without prior knowledge. Here is one person's story:

found this site to late

 

Well, over $1700 dollars later and my 1999 T & C Ltd was towed again today with the same problem. In Sept 07 spent $1000 at the local
dealer when they told me I needed a BCM (Body Control Module) to fix my no starting problem. That was after they charged me $130 three weeks earlier claiming my problem was a dead battery. Of course after some discussion with the Service Manager they deducted that amount from the BCM charge which still left me with about an $850 bill. Then, 3 weeks ago while on vacation I had it towed to another Chrysler dealership because of the same problem and they said it was the Insturment cluster circuit board. That was almost $700. Today, it was towed back to my home town dealer for the same problem, after it left my wife and 2 children stranded. I did convince them to at least send someone to my vehicle with a hand held diagnostic computer to try to figure out the problem. The technician told me he thought it was the starter. So I'll have to wait until tomorrow to see how their going to stick it to me this time. Along with the no starting problem, my odometer flickers while my van is idiling. Does anyone think this is also associated with the connector? I sure wish I would have found this site 11 months ago. Any comments or suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks, RSC

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Bump. I want to make sure you see this before you take your van in for service, Kathleen!!

 

I would NOT take it in to a mechanic with this problem without explaining that they MUST fix the solder joint in the dashboard first. If you get a mechanic who is unaware or unscrupulous, it could cost you thousands. A mechanic will have very little chance to correctly diagnose this without prior knowledge. Here is one person's story:

 

Thank you, thank you, thank you!!!! I do know a mechanic at church who can probably do this fix. Actually, my son may be able to do it. Right now dh and ds24 are trying to fix our washing machine which decided to die today. I'll show them this thread when they come in from the garage. Thanks again!!!!!!!!:):):)

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Not yet. Dh did go to the websites you provided and he is very excited about the prospect of fixing the problem himself. Since he works two jobs, though, he has not had the time to do it. He is scheduled to be off next Wed-Sat and planned on tackling the job then. I'll let you know how it goes.

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Not yet. Dh did go to the websites you provided and he is very excited about the prospect of fixing the problem himself. Since he works two jobs, though, he has not had the time to do it. He is scheduled to be off next Wed-Sat and planned on tackling the job then. I'll let you know how it goes.
Good luck! If he has any questions, please do not hesitate to contact me.
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