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Posted

I was certain I asked this earlier this week - came back to check and see if there were any responses, but now I can't find the post.

 

I'm trying to learn my camera.  The assignment is play with shutter speed.

Take a moving picture at a slow shutter speed to capture blur.

Then take another picture at a fast shutter speed to "freeze" the action.

 

 

All I'm getting is blur - the object as well as the picture.  I'm frustrated.  Any suggestions?

 

And HOW slow vs. HOW fast?  Ugh.

 

Olympus PEN 6 if that matters.

Posted

Your camera has a lot of different features that let you do everything automatically, some things automatically (and therefore some things manually) or all things manually.  Three factors control the image you get:  ISO, aperture (f-stop) and shutter speed.  It was daunting (to me) to learn how to do all of these things at once.  So I let my camera do some of the work and learned from it.  

 

I found a nearby spot with a running river.  That provided a steady "motion" as well as a still background (a bridge).  I set up my camera on a tripod and framed up a shot that included the steady and straight lines of the bridge AND the running of the river over some rocks, where I could catch pictures including both flow and individual drops splashing in the air.  Then I froze that shot and went to work learning how to use the camera.  

 

I set the camera at a specific shutter speed, and took a series of 10 pictures, modifying the aperture.

 

Then I set the camera at a specific aperture, and took a series of 10 pictures, modifying the shutter speed.  (I did this exercize at three different apertures, as that is the feature I am most likely to monkey with; just personal preference.)  

 

Then I set the camera at a specific ISO and took a series of 10 pictures, modifying aperture again.  

 

 

THEN, I zoomed the lens to get a different "frame" of the picture, and did all of the above things all over again.  Just because.  :0)

 

This took about an hour.  Then I went home and downloaded all the pics into the software I have on my computer and looked at them, one by one, with the metadata displayed. I took a look at the differences that showed up among all the settings AND I noticed what the camera had done to compensate for my decisions so that I actually got a good shot.  

 

So, for example, I looked at all the shots I had taken at 1/20, at all the different f-stops, and noticed what the *camera* had done to the ISO to get the picture that I saw before me.  I looked at all the shots I had taken at a set f2.8, with different ISOs and saw what the camera had done to the shutter speed.  

 

So in a way, the camera itself became my teacher.   

 

Then, about a week later (or two or three because it was probably raining the next week...LOL...I went back to a similar setting and spent some time messing around setting all three controls myself in manual mode, and got about 30 shots (which took a LOT longer than the previous shooting session had taken because it just takes PRACTICE) and came home, loaded them up, and pored over them, noticing the differences in the pictures and the meta-data information so I could learn from that.  

 

I also have taken a lot of the freebie online teaching courses that Nikon, Adobe, Canon and just regular folks put out, as well as some courses from CreativeLive, which were exceptionally helpful informationally.  But to really learn it, I had to do it.  

 

I am so lazy that I have to make a real effort to take the trouble to set up a tripod.  But for these learning exercises, I strongly recommend you take the time and effort.  There's enough to learn without having to separate out what is blurry because you couldn't hold the camera still enough...and if you are shooting really slow shutter speed or aperture, you can't hold it still enough anyway.  

 

I hope this helps a little bit.  

 

 

Posted

Your camera has a lot of different features that let you do everything automatically, some things automatically (and therefore some things manually) or all things manually.  Three factors control the image you get:  ISO, aperture (f-stop) and shutter speed.  It was daunting (to me) to learn how to do all of these things at once.  So I let my camera do some of the work and learned from it.  

 

I found a nearby spot with a running river.  That provided a steady "motion" as well as a still background (a bridge).  I set up my camera on a tripod and framed up a shot that included the steady and straight lines of the bridge AND the running of the river over some rocks, where I could catch pictures including both flow and individual drops splashing in the air.  Then I froze that shot and went to work learning how to use the camera.  

 

I set the camera at a specific shutter speed, and took a series of 10 pictures, modifying the aperture.

 

Then I set the camera at a specific aperture, and took a series of 10 pictures, modifying the shutter speed.  (I did this exercize at three different apertures, as that is the feature I am most likely to monkey with; just personal preference.)  

 

Then I set the camera at a specific ISO and took a series of 10 pictures, modifying aperture again.  

 

 

THEN, I zoomed the lens to get a different "frame" of the picture, and did all of the above things all over again.  Just because.  :0)

 

This took about an hour.  Then I went home and downloaded all the pics into the software I have on my computer and looked at them, one by one, with the metadata displayed. I took a look at the differences that showed up among all the settings AND I noticed what the camera had done to compensate for my decisions so that I actually got a good shot.  

 

So, for example, I looked at all the shots I had taken at 1/20, at all the different f-stops, and noticed what the *camera* had done to the ISO to get the picture that I saw before me.  I looked at all the shots I had taken at a set f2.8, with different ISOs and saw what the camera had done to the shutter speed.  

 

So in a way, the camera itself became my teacher.   

 

Then, about a week later (or two or three because it was probably raining the next week...LOL...I went back to a similar setting and spent some time messing around setting all three controls myself in manual mode, and got about 30 shots (which took a LOT longer than the previous shooting session had taken because it just takes PRACTICE) and came home, loaded them up, and pored over them, noticing the differences in the pictures and the meta-data information so I could learn from that.  

 

I also have taken a lot of the freebie online teaching courses that Nikon, Adobe, Canon and just regular folks put out, as well as some courses from CreativeLive, which were exceptionally helpful informationally.  But to really learn it, I had to do it.  

 

I am so lazy that I have to make a real effort to take the trouble to set up a tripod.  But for these learning exercises, I strongly recommend you take the time and effort.  There's enough to learn without having to separate out what is blurry because you couldn't hold the camera still enough...and if you are shooting really slow shutter speed or aperture, you can't hold it still enough anyway.  

 

I hope this helps a little bit.  

 

 

It does help.  It's for a class and I can pick my subject.   I am supposed to keep all things auto-focus except the shutter speed.  Canon has an S feature for this - meaning the only variable that you change is the shutter speed.  I know about the tripod - the issue is I don't have one. :( He assumed this for the class and gave us ways to still our body to do it.  I am thinking about this now that you say this - is that why I'm getting the object blur?

 

I was attempting to shoot my daughter riding her bike - hair streaming so you know there is motion but frozen.  Does that make sense?  That was for fast shutter speed.  The second was the same picture but used the background of a white fence, hoping to capture her clearly, but get the fence to blur. :(  Unfortunately just EVERYTHING was a mess and out of focus.  To do this all over again I'd use a camera I had owned for a year! :(

Posted

What is the subject? And what shutter speeds have you used so far. Are you hand holding or is it on a tripod?

 

I'll be honest with you I don't know.  How's that for awful.  We were told to play with our cameras and get to know them better.  I've learned my camera and I don't like each other. :P  Apparently Olympus shows speeds of adjustability from 0-1200.  I assume that is part/whole - so 20 is 1/20 and 1000 is 1/1000?

 

Hand-holding.

Subject was daughter, but I'm more than willing to switch.

 

Perhaps this calls for a visit to the lake tomorrow for splashing droplets and running dogs?

Posted

It does help.  It's for a class and I can pick my subject.   I am supposed to keep all things auto-focus except the shutter speed.  Canon has an S feature for this - meaning the only variable that you change is the shutter speed.  I know about the tripod - the issue is I don't have one. :( He assumed this for the class and gave us ways to still our body to do it.  I am thinking about this now that you say this - is that why I'm getting the object blur?

 

I was attempting to shoot my daughter riding her bike - hair streaming so you know there is motion but frozen.  Does that make sense?  That was for fast shutter speed.  The second was the same picture but used the background of a white fence, hoping to capture her clearly, but get the fence to blur. :(  Unfortunately just EVERYTHING was a mess and out of focus.  To do this all over again I'd use a camera I had owned for a year! :(

 

Oy, I would have a hard time completing the assignment with an actual human as a subject.  The reason I chose the river was that it just kept rollin' along, and I didn't have to boss it around, or move my camera to catch the movement.  

 

I took a class (online) where the instructor taught us how to identify the cause for blur in pictures, whether it was intentional or not.  A lot of times, it was handheld blur.  It is very hard to get accurate focus on something that is moving, especially when you are new.  This instructor showed a video to show how much a flower could be blowin' in the wind (I'm on a musical lyrics roll here!) before he was say, "Nah, never mind...it'll be too blurry." and skip taking the picture.  I swear, the side-to-side movement of the flower in the breeze was less than the width of the word "was."  And he's a professional!  

 

If you don't have a tripod, use a chair.  A box.  Something you can level up and set the camera on in a fixed position.  It will help you a lot while you are learning, because it isolates the variables.  

 

And get  a tripod.  You won't need a very expensive one with the mirrorless camera (my go-to camera is a Sony mirrorless but sometimes I steal my dh's Nikon DSLR), and you can likely find one for $10 used.  I'll never again buy a new tripod:  many hobbyists upgrade at the drop of a hat and sell their used stuff cheap.  Tripods are totally great, used.  (Lenses, camera bodies can be, too, but I'm a little wary on those and so I buy used only from dealers for those things.)  

Posted (edited)

http://cs.olympus-imaging.jp/en/support/imsg/digicamera/download/manual/pen/man_epl6_e.pdf

 

This is the manual for your camera.  Put it on your phone so you always have it.   :)  Page 26 has shutter priority mode instructions. Your easiest way to start is with something simple like running water.  You can set it on the counter and use live mode or a remote.  If you use live mode, remember that you can't jiggle it while the shutter is open.  That's why you could use a remote.  But just play with it.

 

So me, I would set your camera to how you're wanting it to meter, shutter priority, compose the shot, make sure your focus points are where you want them, fire, holding very still.  If you don't have a tripod, then a counter, books, a stool, or yes steadying on something.

 

If you use running water, then you could start at say 400 (fast enough to stop motion) and then go down.  As you see from p. 26 of your manual, you're going to go down to 15 and then it goes to 1", 2".  So keep going right through that and play with it.  You could also turn on a ceiling fan or a box fan.  Maybe you have a dancing flower?  You know, those sillly things from Dollar Tree...  Or paint with light with sparklers or glo sticks in the dark in your garage.  For that you would set it on something and use a long exposure.  Or take cars driving by at night.  Just play with it.

 

Another thing you can do is go to a busy place, put it on a tripod (or ledge or stable place) with a long exposure and just leave it on as people mill in and out.  I haven't done it, but supposedly when you do that you basically get only what was constant, not what went in and out of the frame.  Wild, eh?  

 

Sounds like a fun class!   :)

 

PS.  If you want to make the shot more interesting, look for compelling light.  Even something humble like a kitchen sink faucet turned on can be really interesting and dramatic with good light.  Something early morning, with shadows...  Try getting up early in the morning for the shots and see if they're more interesting.

Edited by OhElizabeth
Posted

OhElizabeth, you reminded me of the use of the remote.  THANK YOU.  

 

For a long time I didn't have a remote, so I would set the shot to go off 3 seconds after I clicked the release button.  That worked great...except if you do this, remember to set it back to normal.  Teh next time I went out shooting I about lost my temper because the darned camera wouldn't take a picture when I pressed the release.  It kept going off REALLY SLOWLY. :::eyeroll:::

 

:0) 

 

 

Posted

Oy, I would have a hard time completing the assignment with an actual human as a subject.  The reason I chose the river was that it just kept rollin' along, and I didn't have to boss it around, or move my camera to catch the movement.  

 

I took a class (online) where the instructor taught us how to identify the cause for blur in pictures, whether it was intentional or not.  A lot of times, it was handheld blur.  It is very hard to get accurate focus on something that is moving, especially when you are new.  This instructor showed a video to show how much a flower could be blowin' in the wind (I'm on a musical lyrics roll here!) before he was say, "Nah, never mind...it'll be too blurry." and skip taking the picture.  I swear, the side-to-side movement of the flower in the breeze was less than the width of the word "was."  And he's a professional!  

 

If you don't have a tripod, use a chair.  A box.  Something you can level up and set the camera on in a fixed position.  It will help you a lot while you are learning, because it isolates the variables.  

 

And get  a tripod.  You won't need a very expensive one with the mirrorless camera (my go-to camera is a Sony mirrorless but sometimes I steal my dh's Nikon DSLR), and you can likely find one for $10 used.  I'll never again buy a new tripod:  many hobbyists upgrade at the drop of a hat and sell their used stuff cheap.  Tripods are totally great, used.  (Lenses, camera bodies can be, too, but I'm a little wary on those and so I buy used only from dealers for those things.)  

 

 

Okay - so I'll either go pick up a tripod, or maybe I'll give DH's laser level tripod a shot. :D  But, one of the things we were told to do in order to get a great blur is pan.  How in the world does one pan and get the shot without using hands?  Oh. My. Ugh.  I also think I might have an older tripod around here from my camcorder.  I'll bet the have the same screw attachment.

Posted

http://cs.olympus-imaging.jp/en/support/imsg/digicamera/download/manual/pen/man_epl6_e.pdf

 

This is the manual for your camera.  Put it on your phone so you always have it.   :)  Page 26 has shutter priority mode instructions. Your easiest way to start is with something simple like running water.  You can set it on the counter and use live mode or a remote.  If you use live mode, remember that you can't jiggle it while the shutter is open.  That's why you could use a remote.  But just play with it.

 

So me, I would set your camera to how you're wanting it to meter, shutter priority, compose the shot, make sure your focus points are where you want them, fire, holding very still.  If you don't have a tripod, then a counter, books, a stool, or yes steadying on something.

 

If you use running water, then you could start at say 400 (fast enough to stop motion) and then go down.  As you see from p. 26 of your manual, you're going to go down to 15 and then it goes to 1", 2".  So keep going right through that and play with it.  You could also turn on a ceiling fan or a box fan.  Maybe you have a dancing flower?  You know, those sillly things from Dollar Tree...  Or paint with light with sparklers or glo sticks in the dark in your garage.  For that you would set it on something and use a long exposure.  Or take cars driving by at night.  Just play with it.

 

Another thing you can do is go to a busy place, put it on a tripod (or ledge or stable place) with a long exposure and just leave it on as people mill in and out.  I haven't done it, but supposedly when you do that you basically get only what was constant, not what went in and out of the frame.  Wild, eh?  

 

Sounds like a fun class!   :)

 

PS.  If you want to make the shot more interesting, look for compelling light.  Even something humble like a kitchen sink faucet turned on can be really interesting and dramatic with good light.  Something early morning, with shadows...  Try getting up early in the morning for the shots and see if they're more interesting.

 

I honestly wish it was that easy - I've read those instructions over. And over.  And over.  And over.  I think my main problem was my subject.  Up until now (8 weeks in) I've enjoyed this class - but it's mostly been learning Lightroom and not fiddling with the camera.  Going from using your iPhone to manual settings in two weeks is a challenge.  And it's online - so no IRL help specific to different cameras.  Not the ideal situation and as the teacher offers zero feedback on how to improve any of any of shots, no, it's not been fun.  I really took the class to improve my abilities and unfortunately, without feedback, I'm finding myself a little frustrated, even after specifically asking for feedback. 

Posted

Lightroom is super, but it is also complex.  If I don't use it regularly, I have to start from scratch again....I ended up taking a class in that, rather than the photography, which comes more naturally to me.  

 

You know what?  You'll be able to pan in no time.  If I were you, and the shooting was not fun anymore, I'd go back to one of the settings that lets the camera do at least some of the work for you.  I don't use Automatic anymore, but I'll sometimes throw it into P if I am distracted or under pressure to get a shot.  At least with P I can control the flash.  (You can't on Automatic.)  Most of the time, I shoot in A (aperture) mode--that makes it so I can choose my aperture and lets the camera take it from there.  Most of what I want to change is depth of field and that's largely done with aperture.  And I have fun.  And get a lot of compliments on how wonderful my pictures are.  Maybe I could ooch them up a notch it I took it all to manual, but if I hate it, I'm not going to get shots that I *will* get when it is still fun.

 

The guy I have taken the most classes from has been a journalistic and then travel photographer for 30 years, and he says that he often throws it into A (aperture) mode.  It's not that he doesn't know how to use his camera...it's just that he knows how to use the tools at his disposal, and the different settings are among those tools.

 

Take it easy on yourself, and enjoy the shooting!  :0)  It's ok.  

Posted

One other thing I thought of:  if you know enough to answer this question, or know someone you could ask, it might be helpful to know whether Olympus has pretty much the same menu across its mirrorless line.  I know some cameras have more features than others, but if the menu system is pretty much the same across the line, I might know of a camera-specific class that would be of help.  It's not for your model, but it is by a *wonderful* instructor for a mirrorless Olympus a step or two up from yours.  So yours wouldn't have all the features of the camera being discussed, but if the MENU system is the same, you could use the class to learn about your camera.

 

I've taken several classes (online and in person) from this particular instructor and find him *extremely* thorough and understandable...I'm no rocket scientist.  I took his camera-specific class so I could steal my dh's Nikon and after taking his class, I knew more about the camera than my DH did.  HA.  :0)

 

Anyway, it runs $49, and you download it and take it at your own pace.  But if the menuing system varies a lot by camera, then it would be a waste of time. 

Posted (edited)

I honestly wish it was that easy - I've read those instructions over. And over.  And over.  And over.  I think my main problem was my subject.  Up until now (8 weeks in) I've enjoyed this class - but it's mostly been learning Lightroom and not fiddling with the camera.  Going from using your iPhone to manual settings in two weeks is a challenge.  And it's online - so no IRL help specific to different cameras.  Not the ideal situation and as the teacher offers zero feedback on how to improve any of any of shots, no, it's not been fun.  I really took the class to improve my abilities and unfortunately, without feedback, I'm finding myself a little frustrated, even after specifically asking for feedback. 

Oh dear!  Is this for yourself or did you need it for a credit toward a degree?  Because if it's just for yourself, the place to go is ClickinMoms.  

 

If all you need is to explore shutter speed, it IS that easy.  Use a simple subject like running water at the kitchen sink.  Set the camera on the counter, turn it to live view (so you can see on the back), set it to shutter priority, set the speed to 400, click.  Then take the shutter speed down to say 250 and click.  Then take it down to 100 and click.  Then 80, click.  60, click.  And so on.  You're stabilized and it's easy, done.  Water shots are cool!  That's the most basic.  When you learn a new technique, you don't have to be the most artistic.  Just get the technique figured out.  THEN figure out how you do something memorable with it.

 

Go for the SIMPLEST iteration of the skill.  Then, when you get it, then try something a little more complex.  

 

Remember, good photography takes time and lots of shots.  You're typically going to have many less memorable images before you get to a more memorable one.  So to combine learning a new skill (composition, etc.) with some artistic goal is just unrealistic.  You may need to do 100 of these shots before you finally have some inspiration and go OH, NOW I GET IT!!!  When I've taken classes working on a skill, I'll take 150 shots just to turn in 3.

 

Both of your tasks (blurring with slow shutter speed and freezing with high shutter speed) can be accomplished at the sink with the faucet.  Seriously.  Once you've done it there, where it's easy and doesn't have tons of things moving and pressuring you, THEN try more creative ideas.  You can also try googling for pictures involving motion blur.  There are pinterest boards with pics, etc.  I'm fiddling with pinterest and finding some things.  One lady suggests your kid drinking at a water fountain.  If it's a man and he's showing rivers and cars and things that maybe aren't practical or near you or what you're interested in photographing, then you're not seeing how the skill could carry over to YOUR life.  So that's where you can look on Pinterest (or Clickinmoms!) and get ideas.  

 

Ok, I found a nice one.  It's just a faucet, but it's nicely done, definitely illustrates the skil.  http://www.itsoverflowing.com/2012/01/photography-friday-shutter-speed/  Then, once you nail it there, think about cool ways it could show up in real life.  Leaves your kids throw, taking a shower (head shots), jumping on a trampoline.  I've seen people doing the opposite, using a slow motion to create blur of themselves doing selfies (with a remote!) to create a sense of motion and emotion.

Edited by OhElizabeth
  • Like 1
Posted

I was certain I asked this earlier this week - came back to check and see if there were any responses, but now I can't find the post.

 

I'm trying to learn my camera. The assignment is play with shutter speed.

Take a moving picture at a slow shutter speed to capture blur.

Then take another picture at a fast shutter speed to "freeze" the action.

 

 

All I'm getting is blur - the object as well as the picture. I'm frustrated. Any suggestions?

 

And HOW slow vs. HOW fast? Ugh.

 

Olympus PEN 6 if that matters.

My instructor taught me that, generally, anything below 1/30s was too slow to hand-hold without some camera shake blur. And fast would probably be no slower than 1/125s.

 

I'm sure you already know this, but there is always a ratio going on between ISO, Aperture and Shutter Speed. So, depending on available light, your camera still has limitations on the other parameters. So, for example, if it's a bright sunny day, even if your ISO is as insensitive as it can get, and your aperture is as small as possible, you may still not be able to get a slow enough shutter to blur. Or, OTOH, without enough light, even with ISO all the way up and aperture wide open, you still may need a shutter slow enough that everything blurs.

 

I don't think panning is possible while tripod-mounted. In any case, I have never done it. You have to pan at the same rate as the moving object in order to blur just the backround. Personally, I think that is a more advanced technique.

  • Like 1
Posted

Panning is fairly advanced with or without a tripod. Panning with a tripod depends to some degree on the kind of tripod head you have.

 

And one of the exercises my instructor had us do was to find out what speed we could shoot handheld. It varies by the lens length and by the person. I have a friend who can shoot steady handheld at a point waaaay past where I require a tripod. I and shoot at one speed with my mirror less but my dh's DSLR is heavier and I am a wuss and so I need a tripod a lot sooner.

Posted

Oh dear!  Is this for yourself or did you need it for a credit toward a degree?  Because if it's just for yourself, the place to go is ClickinMoms.  

 

If all you need is to explore shutter speed, it IS that easy.  Use a simple subject like running water at the kitchen sink.  Set the camera on the counter, turn it to live view (so you can see on the back), set it to shutter priority, set the speed to 400, click.  Then take the shutter speed down to say 250 and click.  Then take it down to 100 and click.  Then 80, click.  60, click.  And so on.  You're stabilized and it's easy, done.  Water shots are cool!  That's the most basic.  When you learn a new technique, you don't have to be the most artistic.  Just get the technique figured out.  THEN figure out how you do something memorable with it.

 

Go for the SIMPLEST iteration of the skill.  Then, when you get it, then try something a little more complex.  

 

Remember, good photography takes time and lots of shots.  You're typically going to have many less memorable images before you get to a more memorable one.  So to combine learning a new skill (composition, etc.) with some artistic goal is just unrealistic.  You may need to do 100 of these shots before you finally have some inspiration and go OH, NOW I GET IT!!!  When I've taken classes working on a skill, I'll take 150 shots just to turn in 3.

 

Both of your tasks (blurring with slow shutter speed and freezing with high shutter speed) can be accomplished at the sink with the faucet.  Seriously.  Once you've done it there, where it's easy and doesn't have tons of things moving and pressuring you, THEN try more creative ideas.  You can also try googling for pictures involving motion blur.  There are pinterest boards with pics, etc.  I'm fiddling with pinterest and finding some things.  One lady suggests your kid drinking at a water fountain.  If it's a man and he's showing rivers and cars and things that maybe aren't practical or near you or what you're interested in photographing, then you're not seeing how the skill could carry over to YOUR life.  So that's where you can look on Pinterest (or Clickinmoms!) and get ideas.  

 

Ok, I found a nice one.  It's just a faucet, but it's nicely done, definitely illustrates the skil.  http://www.itsoverflowing.com/2012/01/photography-friday-shutter-speed/  Then, once you nail it there, think about cool ways it could show up in real life.  Leaves your kids throw, taking a shower (head shots), jumping on a trampoline.  I've seen people doing the opposite, using a slow motion to create blur of themselves doing selfies (with a remote!) to create a sense of motion and emotion.

 

 

THANK YOU for that site.  I think the problem, for me, is this:  I love teaching myself things.  I sew, I knit, I create... But I don't do "original" pieces until I have duplicated others work enough (used patterns, duplicated pictures, etc.) that I feel I have a certain degree of mastery.

 

In other words:

Acquire basic ability

Acquire basic skill

Duplicate others work until I gain confidence

Original work

 

 

And I've noticed this same pattern in me over, and over, and over.

 

Now all of a sudden I am expected to do creativity at the same time as acquiring the most basic of abilities - just the bones of how - to and it is UTTERLY overwhelming and anxiety producing.  And I am a little OCD about half way work....  It's an ugly combination.  My frustration level is really high.

 

 

It's for my degree.  I have an art component that I have to fulfill and while Art History would have been an easy A, I was REALLY looking forward to doing Digital Photography.  I have loved playing with Lightroom and right up until Week 8, this class has been an easy A.  I especially loved playing with light.  

 

When I'm anxious or timid about a new skill I find I seek more direction and so I THOUGHT I was doing everything right - I was playing with shutter speed, taking it at the right time of day, making adjustments, shooting more pictures.  I think the main problem here was that I was choosing the wrong subject!!!!  I kept trying everything on a girl on a bike.  :)  

 

I'm going to work on this all day today - water and dirt.  We have some landscaping to do and I am wondering if I can freeze flying dirt, lol.........

Posted

Panning is fairly advanced with or without a tripod. Panning with a tripod depends to some degree on the kind of tripod head you have.

 

And one of the exercises my instructor had us do was to find out what speed we could shoot handheld. It varies by the lens length and by the person. I have a friend who can shoot steady handheld at a point waaaay past where I require a tripod. I and shoot at one speed with my mirror less but my dh's DSLR is heavier and I am a wuss and so I need a tripod a lot sooner.

 

 

So, lol, the "how to" video linked on our class assignment was a nice fella teaching us how to get the "zoom" of a car going by, using his body as a tripod and panning.

 

Possibly not the best example you think? :D

 

Feeling more positive this morning.  Helps that the weather is insanely gorgeous and it makes me want to go out and take the camera.

Posted (edited)

Kelly, it's still the same progression.  You're going to start with something basic, take 100 iterations of basic, and then at some point it's going to CLICK (haha) and you'll be ready to apply it in a more artistic way.  But to get there all in one leap?  Most people don't do that, lol.  

 

The real issue is this stuff takes time.  It sounds simple, like oh just get it!  But it's really not.  You could work several hours a day doing this and maybe by then end of a week feel like wow, I really wrapped my brain around that!  In classes I've been in, it has taken me a full week, working multiple hours a day, to get from that I sorta get it basic level to ok I'm ready to apply this in an interesting way.  It takes a LOT of work!

 

Start simple and just work through it.  You'll get there.  Once you get the basic concept doing it with simple things (water), then you'll start to think about a more interesting use.  Remember, art is individual.  That guy might like street shots and someone else might like nature.  You have to be AUTHENTIC to yourself and what you love and what YOU find interesting.  You want to tell a story with your image, and it has to be the story YOU wanted to tell, not someone ELSE tells.  And you'll get there.  Just remain true to your vision of what YOU find interesting and noteworthy and worth thinking about or telling.  Think about what you want to tell with the shot and why it's worth looking at.  Then you'll find your application and it will be memorable.

Edited by OhElizabeth
Posted

For instance, you're working on running water shots.  Insert someone you love into that water shot, using their hands to wash dishes, whatever, crop it in, tell a STORY with just your simple running water and their hands.  Know what you're trying to say.  Maybe it's your dh's hands washing baby bottles at the sink.  Convert it to b&w so your eyes go to the lines, not the color.  The story is his love for his kids, his wife, that he kicks in and does these things.  It was never anything more complex than water and hands.  

 

Now maybe that doesn't work because he'll be in motion while you're trying to slow the water.  But I'm saying work with what you LOVE the stories YOU want to remember or find interesting to think about.  It doesn't have to be what the (male) photography teacher finds interesting.  It could be some story about your life.

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