Arctic Mama - vintage sewing machine help?

[wendy not in HI]

Hi Arctic Mama! I tried to send a pm but it didn't work... I have enjoyed your vintage sewing machine advice in the past and I have some questions for you. I hope you don't mind!!

 

I have been doing some leather sewing for a friend. I think it is going to turn into an unexpected and fun job. He has a small bernina I've been using, but I think it's not going to last long working on the heavy leather. I think we need something different, but I don't want to spend too much, and I think I need a workhorse. I've been looking on Craig's List and have seen a couple machines that I'm going to try to go look at. I'm wondering what your advice would me?

 

There is a Morse 4300 available though a local facebook group for $65. There's also a 1960's singer for about $100, though I think both would take less... There's also someone with 5 different vintage machines, I can't quite see what they are but I can see one is an old Kenmore.

 

In the "not your area but nearby" section of craigslist I also saw a set of shoe repair tools including a vintage pfaff sewing machine - it suggests that it was made for leather. It looks like he's trying to sell the lot (for a lot of $) but I can ask if he would just sell the pfaff.

 

Any thoughts??

 

Anything I should ask or watch for?

 

Thanks for your help!!

[Guest]

None of those domestic, consumer machines are made for leather, but they can all *handle* it in small doses for something like a purse or wallet. It's not great for the motors though. Is he/you planning on doing large amounts of leather, like chaps or saddle bags, or just the occasional project?

 

For really heavy leather in moderate quantities a manual/people powered machine is actually your best bet. An old singer hand crank or treadle can get you good piercing power because of the low speed.

 

I'd have to see the pfaff or model number on it to judge, it could be one of their industrial models and might be suitable, otherwise the same issues apply in terms of suitability. The Morse 4300 is a model I've personally worked on and hey are fantastic home sewing machines - if not do leather exclusively on it because it is still a consumer model and not specifically designed for that kind of work, but it could certainly handle leather or heavy canvas for the occasional project with sharp needles and care taken on doubled seams where you're dealing with thicker/more leather than straight stitching.

 

As a rule old Kenmores, specifically the Japanese makes from the 60-70's, are my absolute favorite to use and repair, both. The Morse is comparable in quality and durability. Pfaff is a great brand but more finicky, and it depends on the make and year. Like I said if it is an industrial pfaff with a table mounted motor or one specifically geared for leatherwork (they do exist) that's probably the best choice, but your standard domestic Pfaff from the 50's-90's isn't going to be any more suited for leather than the Bernina.

Edited December 7, 2016 by Arctic Mama

[Liz CA]

Cannot comment on sewing machines in terms of being able to manage leather. Just wanted to say that Grandma bought a Pfaff right after WWII and last time I was at her house before she passed in 1991, she still had it and it was working. :)

[wendy not in HI]

Thanks for your thoughts. I really appreciate it. He is planning to have me sew mittens - several sets of mittens - from a variety of leathers.

 

I'm thinking that an older machine for about $60 could do better (for a while) than a newer bernina for $800. The older machine may only last one season, though.

 

Maybe it would be better for him to invest in an industrial machine from the get go. Checking back on craigslist there is the set of shoe machines that has a pfaff (the engine appears mounted under the table, no info, but it looks similar to the 145), a table mounted pfaff 145 and a really clean looking industrial singer - http://sd.craigslist.org/bfs/5864554774.html

 

I think I'll send him the links.

 

Thanks again!!

[Guest]

If it is just several sets of mittens and he isn't planning on doing this for a living then the Morse or Kenmore are far better choices. Modern Berninas are good for garment sewing but they aren't really as versatile as the older machines for home goods - he power is there but the durability in manufacturing was lost about thirty years ago. The older machines are great workhorses for variety of tasks, including heavy household sewing and repair, they just aren't 'industrial', by which I mean designed for a repetitive heavy task.

 

There is no need to shell out for the 7-31 unless he/you is making a business out of it. For a set of projects you should be fine with good needles and the machines already discussed.

 

Pfaff 145's are fantastic as well, but probably overkill if you're on a budget. If you want to do leather for a living then yes, to with one of the industrials. I wouldn't hesitate to see a few leather projects on my older Kenmores or Pfaff 360 though :)

Edited December 7, 2016 by Arctic Mama

[Guest]

None of those domestic, consumer machines are made for leather, but they can all *handle* it in small doses for something like a purse or wallet. It's not great for the motors though. Is he/you planning on doing large amounts of leather, like chaps or saddle bags, or just the occasional project?

 

For really heavy leather in moderate quantities a manual/people powered machine is actually your best bet. An old singer hand crank or treadle can get you good piercing power because of the low speed.

 

I'd have to see the pfaff or model number on it to judge, it could be one of their industrial models and might be suitable, otherwise the same issues apply in terms of suitability. The Morse 4300 is a model I've personally worked on and hey are fantastic home sewing machines - if not do leather exclusively on it because it is still a consumer model and not specifically designed for that kind of work, but it could certainly handle leather or heavy canvas for the occasional project with sharp needles and care taken on doubled seams where you're dealing with thicker/more leather than straight stitching.

 

As a rule old Kenmores, specifically the Japanese makes from the 60-70's, are my absolute favorite to use and repair, both. The Morse is comparable in quality and durability. Pfaff is a great brand but more finicky, and it depends on the make and year. Like I said if it is an industrial pfaff with a table mounted motor or one specifically geared for leatherwork (they do exist) that's probably the best choice, but your standard domestic Pfaff from the 50's-90's isn't going to be any more suited for leather than the Bernina.

I just have to say thank you for all the many times you have helped in this subject.

[Guest]

No problem! It's an odd hobby/work choice to service vintage sewing machines but I love it and every one that finds a loving home instead of a landfill is fantastic. They're workhorse pieces of history and so much better bang for the buck than most consumer sewing machines today, especially for someone not needing computer embroidery features.

 

I think people get super intimidated by the age/condition of a lot of these machines needlessly so I just try to do my best to demystify it a bit. If it saves someone money AND prevents a fantastic piece of engineering from ending up in the trash, yay!