What do you use on your grass?

[MomN]

Our lawn is full of weeds.   We've never used anything on our grass because our kids are always on it.  It's something I'm pretty adamant about.  But we live by beautifully manicured lawns (they look like soft green blankets!) and my husband is getting antsy about it.  Just curious what people use on their lawns, especially anyone who has found something considered safe and organic.

34 minutes ago, MomN said:

Our lawn is full of weeds.   We've never used anything on our grass because our kids are always on it.  It's something I'm pretty adamant about.  But we live by beautifully manicured lawns (they look like soft green blankets!) and my husband is getting antsy about it.  Just curious what people use on their lawns, especially anyone who has found something considered safe and organic.

I am just like you.  I would love to get rid of the weeds, but the weed killer is not something I am willing to do.  I am eager to hear the responses.

[Melissa in Australia]

We have geese. They keep it nicely trimmed, eat the weeds and fertilise as they go along. 

[prairiewindmomma]

I'll pass on the geese. Geese poop is slick!

We tilled up, added in compost, and re-seeded two years ago.  I pull new weeds in the lawn by hand. As long as you stay on top of it after reseeding, it's not too bad.  I add a balanced natural fertilizer in the spring, and again about 6 weeks before first frost.

[prairiewindmomma]

I've seen this, but I haven't used it, for organic weed preventers: https://www.espoma.com/product/weed-preventer/#tab2

[ktgrok]

The only organic weed control I know of it iron based, and it only works on some weeds...but you could try that. 

I do use non organic weed killer when needed - not for simple easy to pull stuff but for the kinds of weeds that are aggressive and make big dense mats that take over the grass, and weave themselves through the stolons of my bermuda, so there is no way to pull them up without pulling up all the grass too. (and if I do that, new weeds grow before the grass comes back, lol). 

What I do is apply in the evening, with a marker dye. The stuff sits on the weed doing its job until morning when the sprinklers run and wash it off, down into the soil. I can see that it is rinsed off for the most part by looking for the blue dye. If the dye is still there, I water some more until it is gone. then I let it dry. Kids can go on it later that day, but you could wait another day if you wanted. (the stuff says you can go on it as soon as it is dry, but I do it my way for peace of mind). 

I'd have to know what grass you have to make a reccomendation on a weed killer. 

For fertilizer there are tons of organic products. Without knoiwng your soil type I'd say maybe Ringer Lawn Restore, but I love Sunniland All Natural or Milorganite if you don't ahve excessive phosphorous in your soil.  there are also organic insecticides - spinosad is a great one. And there are organic, biological fungicides as well that use natural bacteria that compete with the fungus. I'm also about to start using Chitosan which boosts the grass's own immune system so it can fight off insects and disease. 

[Tanaqui]

Cardboard. Killed it all, and now I have nice vegetable beds, thank goodness.

 

Oh. You want to KEEP the grass? Uh. Try seeding it with clover or irish moss instead?

[ktgrok]

Oh, and in funny but perhaps helpful info? Some of the best info and products for organic care I'm finding are marketed for pot growers, lol. See, most really cool stuff is marketed for either agriculture or golf courses.....both of which mean giant expensive bottles. The average lawn person doesn't care enough to spend $400 on a lifetime supply of say, an all natural chitosan product that may or may not help prevent disease, etc. But for a golf course or farmer that's nothing. But marijuana growers DO care about maximizing plant health and growth, and about being organic, and they don't generally have acres and acres of plants...so the products for them come in reasonable sizes/prices. Just found a bottle of chitosan marketed for pot dealers - 32 oz and under $20. 

[ktgrok]

Here is the iron base weed killer: https://www.gardensalive.com/product/iron-x-selective-weed-killer-for-lawns

Warning - it will stain concrete, etc. And can discolor lawn possibly, but not kill it. (I have oversprayed iron by accident before, and yes, it does that, lol)

[ktgrok]

more info (note the heat restriction..one of the reasons I have not tried it yet here in hot/humid Florida) 

https://extension.umd.edu/sites/extension.umd.edu/files/_docs/programs/ipmnet/Iron Herbicide Info-UMD-IPMnet.pdf

[rjand6more]

We have the same problem!  Neighbors all have beautiful(read :chemical) yards.  Ours is a dandelion field.  We reseeded the yard closest to our house last year and it is thick and beautiful!  We are going to have the rest of the yard skimmed off and reseeded too.  We will deal with individual weeds as needed.

I love our birds and bumblebees.The kids are neat, too:)  I will not consider a poison.  

I would call a local nursery and ask about the best grass seed for your location and amount of sun.

[iamonlyone]

2 hours ago, Tanaqui said:

Cardboard. Killed it all, and now I have nice vegetable beds, thank goodness.

 

Oh. You want to KEEP the grass? Uh. Try seeding it with clover or irish moss instead?

 

How intriguing! I looked at a few articles, and now I want a clover lawn!

[Pawz4me]

DH uses Scott's weed and feed. Our yard is still a long way away from plush. I think a lot of it is because we're surrounded by woods and have lots of birds and squirrels continually depositing things. He usually puts the weed and feed on right before rain is forecasted so that it gets washed in quickly. We've tried organic things in the past, but none of them seemed to do anything at all other than waste the money spent on them. If it were up to me I'd just leave it. Keep it mowed but let whatever wants to grow have at it. Which reminds me--are you mowing regularly, so that it doesn't get too tall? That alone can do a lot to control some weeds. Also, here you can get a soil sample kit from your local agricultural extension office, send if off to their state headquarters and have it analyzed. The report will tell you what you need to add to your soil (like nitrogen, lime or whatever). That might be helpful.

Edited May 22, 2020 by Pawz4me

[Spy Car]

I have the thing.

Prior to ripping out our water-loving beautiful green lawn here in drought-prone Southern California I learned some tips on the Organic Lawn sub-forum of what was then Gardenweb that was every bit as good as the raves I read promised it would be. I mean spectacular, thick, patch-free, picture perfect grass.

The keys were to apply a combination of either alfalfa pellets or alfalfa meal with soybean meal as a way to feed both the grass and the biome of organisms in the soil. This, plus cutting the grass on the long side and watering less frequently but more deeply to encourage deep roots.

I had "nice" lawn previous to this routine, but not even a close call compared with the spectacular carpet that the alfalfa/soybean feeding regiment was able to grow.

I got my supplies from feed stores. Is is important to get "pure" alfalfa and soybean and not an animal feed mix that contains salt. I could never source alfalfa meal, so I used pellets. The pellets have a small downside, in that it takes some days after being scattered and watered in for the pellets to break down and disappear. For a few days the pellets would looks sort of strange (swollen from watering) on the grass, but they'd soon disappear.

The soybean meal would disappear immediately and (had I been able to find it alfalfa meal would have done the same).

I would apply 3 times a year. One could use a mechanical spreader, but I just tossed it by hand.

I don't want to sound hyperbolic, but when combined with trimming the grass somewhat higher and deep (less frequent waterings) made my lawn the envy of my neighborhood. Everyone commented.

Today it has all been replaced with mixed beds of roses, herbs, CA natives and other brought tolerants that I'm mixing to create a romantic garden with meandering  paths in the style that my wife loves (with nods to cottage gardens, English gardens, French Provence/Mediterranean styles), with plants that are friendly to the need to cut down our water consumption.   

What I didn't know when I began this "love letter" to my wife (and means to reduce increasingly crushing water bills) was just how much work planting and maintaining a large property of mixed plantings was going to be. I went in thinking "no more mowing lawns for me." Little did I realize that that decision who turn me into a constant gardener. But I enjoy working in the garden and get a lot of nice feedback from people who pass by.

When I was cutting my own lawn, I used a push mower. We had large lawns (front and back). It is do-able. Using a "reel" mower (one that cuts grass cleanly by having blades spinning and cutting like scissors as opposed to the rotary blades found on most power mowers (that tear the grass blades) is another way help maximize the aesthetics and health of a lawn (and they allow one to cut higher). There are powered "reel" mowers, but they are costly. Some gardening/lawn care services use reel movers, but they are in the minority--but work seeking out IMO if pushing a hand mower is out of the question.

Together I think you'd find in a year your lawn would transform. Thick lawns crowd out weeds. I personally would never use toxic "weed and feed" products or herbicides. And using alfalfa and soybean in combo makes the synthetic fertilizers and weed killers a very poor alternative with regard to results, even leaving aside the earth & family friendliness of this method.

5 stars from me. 

Bill (who sometimes misses his lush green grass)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited May 22, 2020 by Spy Car

[Spy Car]

One more organic tip that I've read about (but never used personally) when trying to restore a lawn with a lot of weeds (and particularly weed seeds) is to use corn gluten meal as what's called a "pre-emergent." Pre-emergents are used strategically just prior to the weed-seed sprouting season to minimize the number of weed seeds that successfully germinate and root.

I have no experience or expertise with using corn gluten meal as a  "pre-emergent" but like the other products mentioned it is safe, earth & family friendly, and from (what I've read) is fairly effective in reducing weed seed germination. An idea to research.

Bill

 

Edited May 22, 2020 by Spy Car

[ktgrok]

5 hours ago, Pawz4me said:

DH uses Scott's weed and feed. Our yard is still a long way away from plush. I think a lot of it is because we're surrounded by woods and have lots of birds and squirrels continually depositing things. He usually puts the weed and feed on right before rain is forecasted so that it gets washed in quickly. We've tried organic things in the past, but none of them seemed to do anything at all other than waste the money spent on them. If it were up to me I'd just leave it. Keep it mowed but let whatever wants to grow have at it. Which reminds me--are you mowing regularly, so that it doesn't get too tall? That alone can do a lot to control some weeds. Also, here you can get a soil sample kit from your local agricultural extension office, send if off to their state headquarters and have it analyzed. The report will tell you what you need to add to your soil (like nitrogen, lime or whatever). That might be helpful.

Weed and Feeds are not super great because of the granular nature. They don't stick to the weed leaves, where they actually need to work. A spray works a LOT better and allows you to use less product/chemicals, because it is getting to where it needs to be - the leaves. (very few herbicides are taken up by the root, most work best on the leaf tissue). 

[mellifera33]

This works well for me. It's a bit of work though. lol 

[ktgrok]

Oh, and with herbicides, if you use one, do NOT expect fast results. the better products often are a very slow kill...they stop the weed from growing but don't burn it down right away. That means it may be weeks before you see the results, but the nice thing is, instead of a bunch of empty bare spots, the weed dies slowly enough that sometimes the grass can fill in as the weed is dying. (this all depends)

For anyone looking for chemical regular old herbicides, that are not pricy, speedzone (get the right formula for your yard type) is a good all purpose one. Or the Round Up For Lawns (not the regular one.....the regular one will kill your grass, obviously). I use Celsius and Certainty mostly, both are not cheap....I went in on a group buy for the Celsius as a bottle will last years for the average person. The two of them will handle pretty much any weed in a southern lawn and can be used in even in high temperatures. But that's pretty advanced. 

Pay attention to heat restrictions and reapplication times, PPE requirements, etc. The label is the law!

[ktgrok]

Just now, mellifera33 said:

This works well for me. It's a bit of work though. lol 

just added that to my wish list! I have a hand held version, that I use sitting on the ground, but would be nice to have one I can use standing up when I am just pulling a few. 

For big weeds, crabgrass, etc I just pull with a tool. Herbicides I save for things like virginia buttonweed, and nutsedges (if you pull they come back more!) and doveweed, which is so "juicy" I can't pull it. 

[mellifera33]

1 minute ago, Ktgrok said:

just added that to my wish list! I have a hand held version, that I use sitting on the ground, but would be nice to have one I can use standing up when I am just pulling a few. 

For big weeds, crabgrass, etc I just pull with a tool. Herbicides I save for things like virginia buttonweed, and nutsedges (if you pull they come back more!) and doveweed, which is so "juicy" I can't pull it. 

It's a back-saver--I can pull a whole yard of dandelion and hairy cat's ear without bending over once!

[ktgrok]

21 minutes ago, mellifera33 said:

It's a back-saver--I can pull a whole yard of dandelion and hairy cat's ear without bending over once!

I can see me using it for crabgrass for the most part. There is nothing so satisfying as pulling up crabgrass. 

Last year, when my lawn was newly seeded and before I could use herbicide (well...I thought it was before, later I found ut there was one that was safe..had to get it off ebay) I spent 2-4 HOURS hand pulling Florida Pusley. Thankfully this year I put down a pre-emergent (can't do that before seeding) that is helping, and the grass is thick enough now to fight that off for the most part. Below is the some of the damage (bare spots) after finally spraying out the pusley (plus damage from armyworms hiding under the pusley!). It was BAD. No "organic" method was going to fix that.....at 2-4 hours a day I was barely staying even...it was growing as fast or faster than I could pull it. The stuff is a menace. But now I have virginia buttonweed....it's just as fast at spreading, and weaves itself between the stolons of the bermuda so I can't pull it if I try. I just end up pulling up big tufts of grass. And the stems are not strong, so it tears as well, and the torn bits can REGROW into new plants!!!!!!! So it got sprayed yesterday with the celsius and certainty combo, and I'm going to pray that works. Oh, and it grows so low that you can't cut it out by mowing low - same as the globe sedge, which I've seen make seed heads even when only an inch tall. that at least looks sort of like grass and blends in, so less of a big deal, and the certainty will get rid of it anyway. 

 

Edited May 22, 2020 by Ktgrok

[fairfarmhand]

50 minutes ago, Ktgrok said:

I can see me using it for crabgrass for the most part. There is nothing so satisfying as pulling up crabgrass. 

Last year, when my lawn was newly seeded and before I could use herbicide (well...I thought it was before, later I found ut there was one that was safe..had to get it off ebay) I spent 2-4 HOURS hand pulling Florida Pusley. Thankfully this year I put down a pre-emergent (can't do that before seeding) that is helping, and the grass is thick enough now to fight that off for the most part. Below is the some of the damage (bare spots) after finally spraying out the pusley (plus damage from armyworms hiding under the pusley!). It was BAD. No "organic" method was going to fix that.....at 2-4 hours a day I was barely staying even...it was growing as fast or faster than I could pull it. The stuff is a menace. But now I have virginia buttonweed....it's just as fast at spreading, and weaves itself between the stolons of the bermuda so I can't pull it if I try. I just end up pulling up big tufts of grass. And the stems are not strong, so it tears as well, and the torn bits can REGROW into new plants!!!!!!! So it got sprayed yesterday with the celsius and certainty combo, and I'm going to pray that works. Oh, and it grows so low that you can't cut it out by mowing low - same as the globe sedge, which I've seen make seed heads even when only an inch tall. that at least looks sort of like grass and blends in, so less of a big deal, and the certainty will get rid of it anyway. 

 

Yeah you have to adapt to what your climate is. Tropical places just have different needs. Florida was originally a swamp so unless you want nothing but swamp plants you have to adapt.

 

[ktgrok]

9 minutes ago, fairfarmhand said:

Yeah you have to adapt to what your climate is. Tropical places just have different needs. Florida was originally a swamp so unless you want nothing but swamp plants you have to adapt.

 

Yup. I'm actually more in the scrub type area - so bare sand (that is too hot to touch with bare skin on a hot day - think the beach at noon burning your feet), some scraggly bushes, and saw palmettos. Not exactly kid friendly, lol. The grass really cools the whole area off a lot, which is nice, and the kids can play - they were playing kickball earlier, then redlight green light. 

[fairfarmhand]

1 hour ago, Ktgrok said:

Yup. I'm actually more in the scrub type area - so bare sand (that is too hot to touch with bare skin on a hot day - think the beach at noon burning your feet), some scraggly bushes, and saw palmettos. Not exactly kid friendly, lol. The grass really cools the whole area off a lot, which is nice, and the kids can play - they were playing kickball earlier, then redlight green light. 

I lived in FL when my dh and I met. He came to see me for the first time, and said\, "Why does everything in FL look like it's a swamp?" And I said, "Thats what FL is. One great big swamp."  We've not been back since we married. We're definitely mountain people.

And yes I remember the bare sand, patchy green stuff. MY parents didn't care much about lawn care, but they cut whatever green stuff grew. Our yard was a mixture of sandspurs and bare sand. We NEVER went barefoot in FL. In fact, we seldom played outside if it wasn't a park or something like that.

[Arctic Bunny]

4 hours ago, Ktgrok said:

Weed and Feeds are not super great because of the granular nature. They don't stick to the weed leaves, where they actually need to work. A spray works a LOT better and allows you to use less product/chemicals, because it is getting to where it needs to be - the leaves. (very few herbicides are taken up by the root, most work best on the leaf tissue). 

Just wanted to add that our weed and feeds (Canada) are herbicide free. It’s the corn stuff that keeps the weeds from growing.

[ktgrok]

1 hour ago, fairfarmhand said:

I lived in FL when my dh and I met. He came to see me for the first time, and said\, "Why does everything in FL look like it's a swamp?" And I said, "Thats what FL is. One great big swamp."  We've not been back since we married. We're definitely mountain people.

And yes I remember the bare sand, patchy green stuff. MY parents didn't care much about lawn care, but they cut whatever green stuff grew. Our yard was a mixture of sandspurs and bare sand. We NEVER went barefoot in FL. In fact, we seldom played outside if it wasn't a park or something like that.

Yeah, that's my neighbor's yard, lol. My kids have learned to not step one foot over the property line into their yard or risk the sand spurs. In my yard we go barefoot 🙂 I keep meaning to ask them if I can treat for them - for free- just to keep my side better. But they have different grass than I do, so some stuff I would have on hand would not be good for their grass, etc. I did see they are looking for an irrigation company, so I think maybe they are going to start taking care of it more. That would be awesome. 

Edited May 22, 2020 by Ktgrok

[MomN]

This information is great! Very helpful! Thank you!

[Selkie]

On 5/21/2020 at 5:56 PM, Melissa in Australia said:

We have geese. They keep it nicely trimmed, eat the weeds and fertilise as they go along. 

Our horses do the same. They love dandelions and clover.🙂

[Bambam]

One time I offered a child $0.25/weed if she pulled them up. 
Do NOT do this. It gets expensive quickly. 

Offer a smaller sum, or a reasonable sum on a full bucket.