Puppy biting clothing - clicker solution?

[Familia]

Hello all.  Our puppy, who had an intestinal parasite last week, is now happy, healthy and raring to go!

We want to primarily use positive reinforcement training via clicker (but, boy, with bad behavior, it is so tempting to spray her with water like our last trainer taught us to do 15 years ago).  

Suddenly, beginning yesterday, she is going after our clothing playfully anytime we play with her indoors.  Even working with her to go in or out of the crate, she begins to grab and play with our sleeves or hems.  So far, when playing indoors, we have tried to offer a toy to distract or gently removed her mouth from the clothing, stepped over the gate in her play area (our kitchen), and turned our backs for a minute before returning to play.  But, the behavior is escalating, so offering a toy is not having any effect.  Clicker trainers, can you give me the formula to shape her out of this?

P.S. Not only did she have the coccidia, she was not in the slightest acclimated to pottying on grass only the floor!   With our last dog, I didn't realize how blessed we were to have had a breeder who began the process of housebreaking before sending the puppy to us.  A special shout-out of thanks to Ktgrok who came to the rescue <3 on housebreaking!  

[Jean in Newcastle]

Does she know "no"?  I say "no bite" every single time.  And I press down gently on her muzzle.  Not to hurt at all.  But to not let her bite. 

Other suggestions are to "yelp" if she bites.  And to click when she stops the behavior. 

[Familia]

36 minutes ago, Jean in Newcastle said:

Does she know "no"? 

She pauses behavior when we say "no" for other things, and then quickly distract her.  A "no" has no affect on this, seemingly deaf at the time.

[Jean in Newcastle]

When Juliet (16 weeks) was really little, I would just press my hand further into her mouth while saying "no".  https://www.petfinder.com/dogs/dog-problems/stop-dog-mouthing/

[Familia]

I really like your suggestion for mouthing hands; thanks for link.  I read about bite inhibition in a book (by an Ian someone).  I do not find the author's behavior solutions for other problems appealing for some reason, so I am kinda at a loss.  I have a housebreaking/crating plan and a clicker training plan using Sue Ailsby's Training Levels, but there is a hole in my knowledge for these discipline issues.  

It began with my skirt which is just simply 'there', so tempting without even walking by or anything, now sleeves, the paper towels, kitchen door knobs...we are moving/removing temptation when possible and know this stage will pass.  

An important bit of info that I did not add is that she is not terribly food or toy motivated.  She gets excited and wants to jump around, but mostly to go after the cats, jump at things she can't chew on (as noted), and, when placid (standard temperament is placid), just wants to look at us/the world.    I guess this is important too: breeder let her play with soft floppy toys a lot, knotted towels for example, while I find that a potential problem down the road, fearing she will think our blankets/towels/couch are fair game later on, so I prefer to give hard toys.  I am being flexible and purchased a few stuffed animal KONG's and an INVINCIBLE snake for (our controlled) tug of war and just when supervised, but maybe she needs more of what she loves...soft things?

[Pawz4me]

You can teach a dog a "no" command while also training positively. I don't like using the actual word; it's far too common and (over)used far too much. I prefer a short, sharp "huff" of air. You know the exasperated sound humans commonly make by forcefully blowing air out their mouths? That but exaggerated even more, like when you really want someone to know they're being ridiculous. Making that sound, or whatever the preferred word or sound is, along with ignoring puppy for a few seconds has always worked for me.

And patience. You should expect to see training progress from week to week or even month to month, not from one day to the next. Sure sometimes really quick progress happens, especially when a puppy gets a little older. But this one is what--just eight or nine weeks old? Truly a baby still. Expect progress to occur in tiny increments over a week or more. Don't think because you don't see progress in 24 hours that the method you're using isn't working.

I've never had a dog who was so stupid that he/she couldn't distinguish its own toys from blankets, towels or other things. So personally--not something I'd spend a second worrying about. Really, most dogs are way smarter than that. And most dogs love stuffies. I wouldn't want to deprive my pet of that pleasure.

[Spy Car]

1 hour ago, Familia said:

I really like your suggestion for mouthing hands; thanks for link.  I read about bite inhibition in a book (by an Ian someone).  I do not find the author's behavior solutions for other problems appealing for some reason, so I am kinda at a loss.  I have a housebreaking/crating plan and a clicker training plan using Sue Ailsby's Training Levels, but there is a hole in my knowledge for these discipline issues.  

It began with my skirt which is just simply 'there', so tempting without even walking by or anything, now sleeves, the paper towels, kitchen door knobs...we are moving/removing temptation when possible and know this stage will pass.  

An important bit of info that I did not add is that she is not terribly food or toy motivated.  She gets excited and wants to jump around, but mostly to go after the cats, jump at things she can't chew on (as noted), and, when placid (standard temperament is placid), just wants to look at us/the world.    I guess this is important too: breeder let her play with soft floppy toys a lot, knotted towels for example, while I find that a potential problem down the road, fearing she will think our blankets/towels/couch are fair game later on, so I prefer to give hard toys.  I am being flexible and purchased a few stuffed animal KONG's and an INVINCIBLE snake for (our controlled) tug of war and just when supervised, but maybe she needs more of what she loves...soft things?

Ian Dunbar. You are correct IMO to question his methods if not his admonition that bite inhibition training is the most important part of a puppy's education (as he is correct about that). 

The best method to correct a pup biting or mouthing hands is to gently go deeper into a pup's mouth with one/s hand (as this removes their ability to clamp down) and to partially withdraw when they release pressure. And to practice this many times daily during their adolescence.

For very excited biters it may be useful to fold the pup's muzzle over its teeth (very gently, with no pressure) creating the situation where the pup will feel its own bites.

This time-frame is critically important for training a dog to have a soft mouth. Telling a dog: NO! is unwise because it shortcuts a training process that is critical.

It may sound strange, but get your hands in the pup's mouth multiple times daily over a period of many months.

It is my number one suggestion for dog rearing.

Bill 

 

 

 

 

[wintermom]

We've been Puppy Walkers for guide dog puppies, and the organization is very much for positive reinforcement and redirection.  We were taught to use the word "off" or "leave it" for stopping behaviours such as jumping, tugging on clothing, eating stuff off the ground, pulling/jerking on a leash, etc. Then redirect the puppy's behaviour toward something positive, such as a toy, or a fun activity such as some training with kibble reinforcement. The "fun activity" could simply be to sit, then lay down, then get back up to sit position. Like puppy push-ups. The mental stimulation is excellent for puppies.

The commands "off" and "leave it," coupled with the habit/expectation of redirection is great for so many other situations. And it's also much more neutral a word that "no." 

[Joules]

I have a different solution that, if applied consistently, worked really well for us.  Partly depends on how good your family is at acting and your puppy's personality.  The way puppies learn not to hurt their siblings is that their siblings scream when they are bit too hard.  So if even the gentlest nip is treated as a hurtful bite the behavior will extinguish.  The same can be true if any bite to the clothing is treated as a real bite.  So squeal like you have been gravely injured, crawl off "hurt," and end the game, each time clothing is bit.  It's always seemed to work better for use than the firm "No" correction and grabbing the mouth.

[Familia]

41 minutes ago, Spy Car said:

It may sound strange, but get your hands in the pup's mouth multiple times daily over a period of many months.

It is my number one suggestion for dog rearing.

Bill 

Your reference to a soft mouth really resonated with us, not only helping future bite-charged situations, but with retrieving of objects - I imagine that is different, but related?   Either way, I read your directions to my husband, and he has already begun.  Can it just be one member of the family who works on this skill on purpose, rather than incidentally?  I understand that dogs are not great generalizers, but I have little interest in being the one offering my hand for intentional bite inhibition training.

 

[hepatica]

Puppies bite - it's what they do. We have German Shepherds and they can be crazy puppy biters. We always have something appropriate around to put in the mouth instead of us or clothing. If the puppy is too excited/crazy then leave (it's good to have some sort of gated area where you can leave the puppy and get away ). Once they have their adult teeth the biting diminishes anyway. I have never used any extraordinary methods, just redirecting and leaving, and all of my dogs have turned into civilized adults. 

[Selkie]

What worked for us was getting two puppies. They used up all their crazy puppy energy rough housing and biting each other, so biting people was never a problem. :)

[Targhee]

We always gave them appropriate things to bite and chew as well as teaching them "release" from the beginning.  We play tug but *always* with a toy and *always* the human wins (walks away with the toy). We also used a "mom bite" if they just wouldn't knock it off. Form you hands in a grabbing shape (thumb opposing fingers) and use it to grab the scruff of the neck SKIN (behind head about collar height) in a quick "nipping" fashion.  This is how mama dog corrects her dogs.

[Spy Car]

3 hours ago, Familia said:

Your reference to a soft mouth really resonated with us, not only helping future bite-charged situations, but with retrieving of objects - I imagine that is different, but related?   Either way, I read your directions to my husband, and he has already begun.  Can it just be one member of the family who works on this skill on purpose, rather than incidentally?  I understand that dogs are not great generalizers, but I have little interest in being the one offering my hand for intentional bite inhibition training.

 

I'm the only one who did this training with our current dog (or any of my dogs historically). Not a problem. You can have a designated hand-in-mouth person.

I still, on occasion, will get my hand into my Vizsla's mouth to reinforce his training. 

Have your husband understand the hand just sort of hangs out comfortably (zero pressure) unless the pup clamps down. If that happens then go deeper (gently and with zero drama). It takes a very minimal move to stop the pup's clamp down. When the pup releases ease hand back (but have it hang out in mouth. Timing is important.

It is the best thing anyone can do with a young puppy.Repeat. Repeat. Repeat.

I promise the effort will pay off.

Bill

 

 

 

[Spy Car]

2 hours ago, Targhee said:

We always gave them appropriate things to bite and chew as well as teaching them "release" from the beginning.  We play tug but *always* with a toy and *always* the human wins (walks away with the toy). We also used a "mom bite" if they just wouldn't knock it off. Form you hands in a grabbing shape (thumb opposing fingers) and use it to grab the scruff of the neck SKIN (behind head about collar height) in a quick "nipping" fashion.  This is how mama dog corrects her dogs.

We are socializing (too much of a trigger-word on this forum :D) our dogs to live with humans, not just other dogs.

"Correcting" a pup by "nipping" a pup will not train for a soft mouth. If that type training fails, someone could get bitten badly.

I also disagree with the "human always wins." I teach "release," for sure, but the reward for a release is getting the toy back.

Bill

 

 

 

 

[Targhee]

30 minutes ago, Spy Car said:

We are socializing (too much of a trigger-word on this forum :D) our dogs to live with humans, not just other dogs.

"Correcting" a pup by "nipping" a pup will not train for a soft mouth. If that type training fails, someone could get bitten badly.

I also disagree with the "human always wins." I teach "release," for sure, but the reward for a release is getting the toy back.

Bill

 

 

 

 

I do t want a soft mouth. I want no biting/mouthing.

The advise of humans always win cane straight from our trainer.  Rewarding your dog with the toy is another thing, but they should not be winning at tug.

[Pawz4me]

12 minutes ago, Targhee said:

The advise of humans always win cane straight from our trainer.  Rewarding your dog with the toy is another thing, but they should not be winning at tug.

I’d find another trainer. That’s not good advice, IMO.  All you need to do to know it’s not particularly sound advice is to watch a few dogs play for awhile. Tug games are something many dogs do naturally, and there’s rarely ever a problem with it. They know it’s a game and that sometimes they’ll win and sometimes they’ll lose. Nobody likes losing all the time, and there’s no valid reason a dog should never win. 

[Spy Car]

9 minutes ago, Targhee said:

I do t want a soft mouth. I want no biting/mouthing.

The advise of humans always win cane straight from our trainer.  Rewarding your dog with the toy is another thing, but they should not be winning at tug.

There is a huge difference between conditioning a puppy to have a soft mouth and trying to stop mouthing/biting behaviors though corrections. Trust me on this. Sustained bite inhibition conditioning does not fail. If correction based training--like pinching a pup when it mouths one--fails (and it does) the results can be catastrophic.

It may sound apocryphal (but it is not), but I had a member (actually an Administrator) of a breed forum give me the business in a way that only sharp-tongued gals from Texas can, as she favored the strong pain-based correction approach, and told me I was full of it.

Recently she reported that her dog had mauled her very severely. Her wounds required extensive surgery.

I held my tongue.

Bite inhibition training of the sort I outline is a process. It works.

Re-read what I said about tug. I reward a release with the toy. That is a positive reinforcement.

Bill

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Familia]

1 hour ago, Spy Car said:

There is a huge difference between conditioning a puppy to have a soft mouth and trying to stop mouthing/biting behaviors though corrections...

...Re-read what I said about tug. I reward a release with the toy. That is a positive reinforcement.

Bill

 

Two questions:

1. I really believe that teaching the soft bite will shape the dog's default behavior, but is the dog learning not to bite at all?  I thought I was clear on this based on Ian's book, but now I am confused based on others' comments.

2. The problems we are having are basic beginner puppy behaviors.  I have forgotten everything about this stage from many, many years ago.  First time around we sprayed with water in order to train the dog to release things, stop jumping on things, etc, etc.  It was quite effective.  The quick spray was coupled with 'Leave it' and leave it she did.  No resentment or confusion that I saw.  But, the trend is positive reinforcement.  The science behind it, training the dogs default behavior instead of tapping into its fear response, makes sense to me.  So, now I want to follow Sue Ailsby's Training Levels, which begin with Zen, the dog's self-control check.  That will be our 'leave it' training, but we are just beginning, just coming off a sick puppy...but, in the interim, this new pup is having puppy-crazy bursts where she grabs pants, skirts, door knobs, cats, chairs and anything but the toys we offer as replacements.  She might grab her toys for a moment, but quickly runs for another forbidden object.  It is zany...I just can't begin quickly enough on Zen!  I am off track, I apologize, but I am trying to make a connection between 'leave it' and tug games.  Right now, we just can't get her off of a forbidden object without physically removing her mouth from it.  We try to be non-dramatic and calm, but she is really worked up sometimes.   We try to play toss with favorite toy, slight interest, then rushes crazily to forbidden objects (anything in room other than a toy).  So, is taking these forbidden objects away, negative reinforcement, rather than what is being said about tug, where the toy is given back?  

[umsami]

We redirected with toys, carrots, and bully sticks.  Since she was teething, we gave her something she could chew on. 

 

We also did the thing where we'd move her mouth in such a way that instead of biting us, she was biting her lips.  That was the most effective honestly, but also giving acceptable chewable things helped a lot.    The yelping or saying "Ow" loudly when she bit us had zero effect on our puppy.  Just as becoming a tree or giving her our back had zero effect on her jumping up.  She would just put her paws on your back.  haha

 

Started out wanting to be completely positive, no correction type puppy parents... but it wasn't working completely.  Then read Monks of New Skete books and realized that a balanced approach worked better for us and also similar to what happens in nature.  YMMV.

[Spy Car]

1 hour ago, Familia said:

Two questions:

1. I really believe that teaching the soft bite will shape the dog's default behavior, but is the dog learning not to bite at all?  I thought I was clear on this based on Ian's book, but now I am confused based on others' comments.

2. The problems we are having are basic beginner puppy behaviors.  I have forgotten everything about this stage from many, many years ago.  First time around we sprayed with water in order to train the dog to release things, stop jumping on things, etc, etc.  It was quite effective.  The quick spray was coupled with 'Leave it' and leave it she did.  No resentment or confusion that I saw.  But, the trend is positive reinforcement.  The science behind it, training the dogs default behavior instead of tapping into its fear response, makes sense to me.  So, now I want to follow Sue Ailsby's Training Levels, which begin with Zen, the dog's self-control check.  That will be our 'leave it' training, but we are just beginning, just coming off a sick puppy...but, in the interim, this new pup is having puppy-crazy bursts where she grabs pants, skirts, door knobs, cats, chairs and anything but the toys we offer as replacements.  She might grab her toys for a moment, but quickly runs for another forbidden object.  It is zany...I just can't begin quickly enough on Zen!  I am off track, I apologize, but I am trying to make a connection between 'leave it' and tug games.  Right now, we just can't get her off of a forbidden object without physically removing her mouth from it.  We try to be non-dramatic and calm, but she is really worked up sometimes.   We try to play toss with favorite toy, slight interest, then rushes crazily to forbidden objects (anything in room other than a toy).  So, is taking these forbidden objects away, negative reinforcement, rather than what is being said about tug, where the toy is given back?  

Ian Dunbar's method is strange IMO (while agreeing 100% that bite inhibition training is the most important part of a puppy's education) because he, on one hand, urges owners to create no drama (good advice!) but on the other embraces saying No! and turning one's back on the pup to deny the pup affection and attention. Those are drama in my book.

His method does not actually condition a dog not to bite. The method I outline does do that.  By this method, dogs will not snap at humans in a moment of excitability. I think they might (depending on the dog) likely still come to the aid of their human if that human was in jeopardy, but that is a very different affair than just suddenly striking out at a child or other person.

It is the absolute best way to raise a safe dog.

This crazy puppy stage will pass. I would not spray a pup in the face to get a release. Make something else more fun. Reward with meat and praise. Meat is a high-value reward. Try trading forbidden objects for meat.

At times you may need to physically remove precious items, but try making trades "give" for meat. Did I mention meat? :D

Could be dehydrated meat. Reward the behaviors you desire. Have names for those behaviors. Praise and give meat (not in that order).

I can't tell you how many hours I've spent with my hand in a puppy's mouth. That has given me complete confidence one of my dogs would never react by biting a human being.

This crazy puppy phase is a normal stage of development. Use it to shape the dog you desire to have. Be kind and be utterly consistent. Praise. And meat.

Bill

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[busymama7]

On 4/21/2018 at 8:43 PM, Spy Car said:

Ian Dunbar's method is strange IMO (while agreeing 100% that bite inhibition training is the most important part of a puppy's education) because he, on one hand, urges owners to create no drama (good advice!) but on the other embraces saying No! and turning one's back on the pup to deny the pup affection and attention. Those are drama in my book.

His method does not actually condition a dog not to bite. The method I outline does do that.  By this method, dogs will not snap at humans in a moment of excitability. I think they might (depending on the dog) likely still come to the aid of their human if that human was in jeopardy, but that is a very different affair than just suddenly striking out at a child or other person.

It is the absolute best way to raise a safe dog.

This crazy puppy stage will pass. I would not spray a pup in the face to get a release. Make something else more fun. Reward with meat and praise. Meat is a high-value reward. Try trading forbidden objects for meat.

At times you may need to physically remove precious items, but try making trades "give" for meat. Did I mention meat? 😄

Could be dehydrated meat. Reward the behaviors you desire. Have names for those behaviors. Praise and give meat (not in that order).

I can't tell you how many hours I've spent with my hand in a puppy's mouth. That has given me complete confidence one of my dogs would never react by biting a human being.

This crazy puppy phase is a normal stage of development. Use it to shape the dog you desire to have. Be kind and be utterly consistent. Praise. And meat.

Bill

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Bill, 

I read this thread due to it being quoted in another thread.  My new to us dog is 3 and while she drops anything we ask her to, she has nipped at my 4 year old. Is she too old for this type of training? At the moment I can stick my hand in her mouth without any issues.  I might be confusing behaviors here as I'm still learning a lot. Thanks 

[Spy Car]

To be honest, I've never attempted it.

In puppyhood, one takes advantage of the typically "mouthy/biting" behaviors and works to establish life lessons. Plus the necessary corrections are so small.

In your case, I'd probably try it, particularly if your dog remains "mouthy." Nipping is very concerning. 

I still semi-regularly get my hand in my dog's mouth just as a refresh (even at 4.5).

I wish I had a more definitive answer for you. 

Bill

 

 

[Familia]

My understanding is the training for soft-mouth will not rehabilitate a dog who bites.  I have been reading many old threads regarding dogs.  And, have stumbled upon some that deal with biting.  When I have seen dog biting issues, the overwhelming majority recommend getting professional help.  To find old threads, this is how I google (since the search on here is not the best IMO):

Google: "site:forums.welltrainedmind.com ____________".   Placing 'dog biting' into the blank gave me a lot of results.

And, I am bumping mainly so someone else with current advice may chime in.

Best wishes!

[Jean in Newcastle]

What kind of nipping?  Is it nipping because the dog is trying to put the 4 year old in his place?  Or is it a "love bite"?  Both need to be corrected but the first is more problematic. 

I would have the four year old involved in training the dog.  (Obviously this involves also training the four year old to put the dog through his paces.)  Having the dog learn to obey the four year old just as he obeys older members of the family is crucial, I think.  Four year old needs to learn to be calm around the dog.  Firm but not mean.  Not making sudden movements that might startle the dog.  Not screaming in the dog's face.  (Not saying that your four year old does.  I have just seen some children who do.)  Respect the dog's space. 

[Roadrunner]

I am still confused about bite inhibition. Mine wants to put my hand into his mouth (along with bunch of other things), but he doesn’t bite down. He is so very gentle. So what am I supposed to do? Just keep on giving him my hand until one day he bites on it and then we work through the technique of pushing he hand up a little and then releasing? Because right now he is as gentle as can be. 

 

He is also hoarder 😂. He drags all his toys or other desires objects into his bed. 

[ktgrok]

17 minutes ago, Roadrunner said:

I am still confused about bite inhibition. Mine wants to put my hand into his mouth (along with bunch of other things), but he doesn’t bite down. He is so very gentle. So what am I supposed to do? Just keep on giving him my hand until one day he bites on it and then we work through the technique of pushing he hand up a little and then releasing? Because right now he is as gentle as can be. 

 

He is also hoarder 😂. He drags all his toys or other desires objects into his bed. 

You have a dog that has a soft mouth already 🙂  Probably a retriever I bet, they've been bred for generations upon generations to have soft mouths so that they don't damage the duck they are retrieving and make it unfit to eat. Don't worry about fixing what isn't broken in my opinion. 

[ktgrok]

Also, dogs that are zooming around grabbing everything to shove in their mouth in a hyper crazy manner need to be put back in their crate or taken outside, in my experience. They are in manic mode and not going to listen to reason right then. 

As for the trend to only use positive reinforcement and never ever say no or scold the dog, I'm not a believer. BTDT and with the right dog and the right household situation, okay. But for many dogs/situations, it's a recipe for frustration on the part of both owner and dog. Personally, if I have a new job and my boss sometimes rewards me (but not always) when I'm doing something that is allowed, but never tells me when something I'm doing is wrong, and then eventually fires me for doing too many wrong things (re-homes the dog), that seems patently unfair and yet I see it all the time. Better to be told no, and have that information to work with, than be left guessing. 

Now, ideally the whole idea with positive only is that you set the dog up for success so it never has the chance to do anything wrong. But again, in my experience, that's not practical for a whole lot of household situations. And underestimates the creative ways dogs can find to do something wrong, lol. 

[Roadrunner]

If he sees any of his toys on the floor, he takes hem back to his bed. He also really wants my t shirt. I don’t know why, but he has decided he is going to get it and he is most definitely targeting it. Several times he spied it out of my bedroom and brought it to his bed. Oh, and he collects random things if he sees them on the floor, like a paper towel sheet that was laying around...

He is a labradoodle.

[ktgrok]

6 minutes ago, Roadrunner said:

If he sees any of his toys on the floor, he takes hem back to his bed. He also really wants my t shirt. I don’t know why, but he has decided he is going to get it and he is most definitely targeting it. Several times he spied it out of my bedroom and brought it to his bed. Oh, and he collects random things if he sees them on the floor, like a paper towel sheet that was laying around...

He is a labradoodle.

How old? If he's routinely grabbing things that he shouldn't he needs more supervision. He probably isn't old enough to be free roaming. 

The soft mouth is typical of a labrador. 

[Roadrunner]

2 minutes ago, Ktgrok said:

How old? If he's routinely grabbing things that he shouldn't he needs more supervision. He probably isn't old enough to be free roaming. 

The soft mouth is typical of a labrador. 

 

He is now 9 weeks. We are always with him. Always.

[ktgrok]

1 minute ago, Roadrunner said:

 

He is now 9 weeks. We are always with him. Always.

At 9 weeks he shouldn't have the ability to run into a bedroom and back out with an item. Have him gated in, or on a leash attached to you, or in a crate, or tethered to something. 

[Roadrunner]

1 minute ago, Ktgrok said:

At 9 weeks he shouldn't have the ability to run into a bedroom and back out with an item. Have him gated in, or on a leash attached to you, or in a crate, or tethered to something. 

 

My home is tiny. He is with us in the living room with doors closed to everywhere else. My kids left my bedroom open. There really isn’t very many places he can go in this house. 😂 

[Spy Car]

1 hour ago, Roadrunner said:

I am still confused about bite inhibition. Mine wants to put my hand into his mouth (along with bunch of other things), but he doesn’t bite down. He is so very gentle. So what am I supposed to do? Just keep on giving him my hand until one day he bites on it and then we work through the technique of pushing he hand up a little and then releasing? Because right now he is as gentle as can be. 

 

He is also hoarder 😂. He drags all his toys or other desires objects into his bed. 

It is perfect that your pup wants your hand in his mouth but doesn't bite down. Don't do anything, other than to hang out to the limits of your (and his) tolerance.

Only if he starts clamping down is it necessary to very gently go slightly deeper into his mouth with your hand and then to release pressure as he does.

Right now it seems you will have a very easy student. Keep it up regardless. You will reinforce his already good natural instincts. Many pups at this age will chew on hands and those sharp little teeth can be painful. You got lucky.

Hoarding his goods in his crate is a good sign. He has a nice safe den that you created for him.

You will be a great dog owner and it sounds like he's a great dog.

Congratulations!

Bill

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Spy Car]

When it comes to a pup taking unwanted items. Start working on "trades" using a terms like "drop it" or "give" and "bring it here" (the names don't matter as long as you are consistent) in an informal way.

Trade non-dog items for high-value treats (read: meat) and praise, then substitute dog toys for your stuff. Faking enthusiasm in these trades helps.

With dog toys you should work the same trades, he yields, gets praise and meat, but you can give the toy back to him.

Pups trained this way are generally eager to trade.

Bill

Edited January 26, 2019 by Spy Car