I need to hem a formal dress, any suggestions for me?

[Tap]

I need to hem dd's prom dress.  There are 4 layers.

 

A poly-satin-look liner, a coarse tulle, another satin-looking layer, and a soft tulle outer layer.

 

The outer layer will hide my small mess-ups so I figure I can do it myself instead of paying $60-80 to have it done for us.  Two layers need stitching, two layers will just be trimmed with scissors.  I am very meticulous so I know I can do the cutting fine, it is just doing the sewing that will take some patience. I can sew cotton fabric fine, I just don't have any experience sewing satin. I will start with the slip layer, so in case I get in over my head, I can still take it to the seamstress to finish it. :0)

 

Any suggestions?  Or good videos that have solid suggestions?  Normally, I would just hand stitch it, but this is a bit more than I want to hand stitch. LOL 

 

Edited April 4, 2016 by Tap

[Guest]

I just want to wish you good luck. I can sew, but I chickened out on my DD's prom dress because of layers of satin and tulle.

[Ali in OR]

Yeah, I would be tempted to do the under layers myself but then take it to a seamstress for the one that shows. I had dd's concert band dress done by the tailor at the dry cleaner and I'm very glad I didn't attempt it. I don't think it was a full circle skirt, but something close. I would have botched it. It was $30 or $35 I think.

[KatieJ]

I did bridal formal alterations for years.

I don't think I ever did 4 layers but you can do this.

Outer layer, just reinforce the seams and cut it off. Nice sharp scissors to avoid jagged edges. I would do this layer last.

 

Other three layers use the hem, cut and roll method. Mark them with chalk or pins. Safety pins don't fall out. I prefer lots of marks.

Press under 1/4 inch longer than you want the final hem to be. Stitch with a basting stitch. After verifying by trying iit on that it is the correct length, trim off the excess hem fabric Cutting close to your stitching line. Turn it under a second time and make your final stitching.

I often would do the first basting stitch in a non matching thread color so,I could find it and pul it out afterward.

Edited April 4, 2016 by KatieinMich

[AK_Mom4]

Well I'm the lady who hemmed my DDs prom dress with duct tape after she sprained her ankle and couldn't wear heels with her dress that night.

 

I would probably go the fake-it route with glue or tape on the inner layers. If the outer layer is gauzy, I would just use sharp sharp scissors and let it hide the inner glue or tape.

[KatieJ]

There is a you tube, how to hem a chiffon dress with a sewing machine .

She is hemming a dark pink dress.

Sorry I don't know how to link on my I pad.

Edited April 4, 2016 by KatieinMich

[KungFuPanda]

I'm a big fan of light pressing and blind basting by hand in situations like this. I do it in front of the TV and it never takes that long. If you're determined to machine stitch, I'd be careful to pin it really well, go slow, and keep it FLAT.

[justasque]

Do you have a serger?  I just hemmed five (!) prom dresses.  Each had two or three layers and what seemed like *yards* of skirt.  We cut the hem about 1/2" longer than the final length, then I serged the hem cutting off the excess.  If it was for an actual prom, I would have done a rolled edge, but it was for the stage, so a four-thread stitch was fine.  

 

To do the job properly will take quite a bit of time.  I was on a tight deadline, didn't need it to be perfect, and had a helper, but it still took hours to do, and my serger goes much quicker than a sewing machine.  I think you'll find, in the end, that the tailor's price is not unreasonable, but if you're up for the challenge, and have decent equipment, it's always interesting to take on a new sewing challenge!

[KatieJ]

Do you have a serger? I just hemmed five (!) prom dresses. Each had two or three layers and what seemed like *yards* of skirt. We cut the hem about 1/2" longer than the final length, then I serged the hem cutting off the excess. If it was for an actual prom, I would have done a rolled edge, but it was for the stage, so a four-thread stitch was fine.

 

 

I agree with how you used your serger to do the hems. I didn't own one when I,worked for the bridal stores, but I have done them that way recently. I don't do it often, so I forgot.

 

 

The point would be that you need something to give substance to the fabric when you turn that final hem. Serger thread would do this much faster.

 

Whatever method, don't cut off all the hem and try to turn a very narrow hem, twice. It's a nightmare. You can't press it enough .

[Tap]

Do you have a serger?  I just hemmed five (!) prom dresses.  Each had two or three layers and what seemed like *yards* of skirt.  We cut the hem about 1/2" longer than the final length, then I serged the hem cutting off the excess.  If it was for an actual prom, I would have done a rolled edge, but it was for the stage, so a four-thread stitch was fine.  

 

To do the job properly will take quite a bit of time.  I was on a tight deadline, didn't need it to be perfect, and had a helper, but it still took hours to do, and my serger goes much quicker than a sewing machine.  I think you'll find, in the end, that the tailor's price is not unreasonable, but if you're up for the challenge, and have decent equipment, it's always interesting to take on a new sewing challenge!

I have a serger, but I have never used it.  LOL 

 

It is one of the original few Baby Loc ones, but I have no idea which one (it is in the attic).  A friend gave it to me, but I never tried to use it.

 

 

The prom is 4 weeks away, so I have plenty of time. I just need to clear my head and get a really good idea of what I am doing before I start.  I will over-research it, and make sure I am really comfortable first, and then still stress the whole day I am doing it.  LOL  I like the challenge (or else I would just pay for it to be done) but need to feel prepared first. 

[KatieJ]

I have a serger, but I have never used it. LOL

 

It is one of the original few Baby Loc ones, but I have no idea which one (it is in the attic). A friend gave it to me, but I never tried to use it.

 

 

The prom is 4 weeks away, so I have plenty of time. I just need to clear my head and get a really good idea of what I am doing before I start. I will over-research it, and make sure I am really comfortable first, and then still stress the whole day I am doing it. LOL I like the challenge (or else I would just pay for it to be done) but need to feel prepared first.

You have a baby lock serger sitting used in your attic??? Where do,you live. I'll hem your four layers and take your serger off your hands!!

 

I own a BL serger, but I have a daughter and a daughter in law who would love one!

[Tap]

I did bridal formal alterations for years.

I don't think I ever did 4 layers but you can do this.

Outer layer, just reinforce the seams and cut it off. Nice sharp scissors to avoid jagged edges. I would do this layer last.

 

Other three layers use the hem, cut and roll method. Mark them with chalk or pins. Safety pins don't fall out. I prefer lots of marks.

Press under 1/4 inch longer than you want the final hem to be. Stitch with a basting stitch. After verifying by trying iit on that it is the correct length, trim off the excess hem fabric Cutting close to your stitching line. Turn it under a second time and make your final stitching.

I often would do the first basting stitch in a non matching thread color so,I could find it and pul it out afterward.

This is exactly how I imagined doing it.  I don't know if I learned this way in Home-Ec class eons ago, or if I saw my mom do it, but this makes the most sense to me. 

 

I have hemmed sheer curtains this way, but never a slippery fabric, so I wasn't sure if it was still the same method or not. 

 

Since you have formal experience, One question I do have....

Right now the outer mesh, is 2 inches longer than the layers under it. The lining (next the skin), the coarse tulle (built-in crinoline?), and outer satin layer are all the same length.  The outermost tulle/mesh is 2 inches longer.  Is that to reduce tripping/snagging etc?  I assume I keep the same ratios? I only need to trim 1" maybe 1.5" off the dress.  I just don't want her to trip on it because she can be a bit clutzy. LOL It is the dress in the link, if that helps it to all make more sense.

 

Here is the link again, so you don't have to look back for it.

Edited April 4, 2016 by Tap

[justasque]

I have a serger, but I have never used it.  LOL 

 

It is one of the original few Baby Loc ones, but I have no idea which one (it is in the attic).  A friend gave it to me, but I never tried to use it.

 

 

The prom is 4 weeks away, so I have plenty of time. I just need to clear my head and get a really good idea of what I am doing before I start.  I will over-research it, and make sure I am really comfortable first, and then still stress the whole day I am doing it.  LOL  I like the challenge (or else I would just pay for it to be done) but need to feel prepared first. 

 

Goodness I had four HOURS to do five dresses!  (Long story...)  If you have a BabyLock in the attic, now is a good opportunity to get it out, watch a ton of YouTube videos, and try different stitches.  Get some fabric similar to the prom dress, and do a test run.  Heck, if you have a Goodwill nearby, spend $6 on a similar-fabric dress and hem it several times over! 

 

One warning - some fabrics, usually loosely-woven ones - don't like a rolled hem - the hem part just pulls right off the fabric.  So if the dress is long enough, do a test run on a part of the hem you'll be cutting anyway, to make sure your tension (if you can set it) and differential feed (if you have it) are at good settings for the particular fabric.  Gently tug at the stitching to be sure it will stay secure.  If a rolled hem won't work, a regular four-thread stitch might be ok, if you have thread that matches well and you and your dd aren't perfectionists.  The goal is to have a fairly straight hem that won't fray, with a bit of weight to it for visual and draping purposes.

 

If your BabyLock is an Imagine or above, you can get up to speed with using it fairly quickly, because threading is super-easy and you don't need to worry about tension - I learned how to use one by watching a video, then spending the afternoon altering a prom dress.  It really was "open and go".  Chances are, though, that your attic machine is of the more garden-variety type.  No worries, though, they are not difficult to use, you just need to put some time into learning how, and with four months to the prom, you should be fine.

 

As I type, dd is making a prom dress with two layers of draped fabric over a more fitted foundation layer, without a pattern.  She did the hem on the serger.  So far, so good.  :-)

[justasque]

This is exactly how I imagined doing it.  I don't know if I learned this way in Home-Ec class eons ago, or if I saw my mom do it, but this makes the most sense to me. 

 

I have hemmed sheer curtains this way, but never a slippery fabric, so I wasn't sure if it was still the same method or not. 

 

Since you have formal experience, One question I do have....

Right now the outer mesh, is 2 inches longer than the layers under it. The lining (next the skin), the coarse tulle (built-in crinoline?), and outer satin layer are all the same length.  The outermost tulle/mesh is 2 inches longer.  Is that to reduce tripping/snagging etc?  I assume I keep the same ratios? I only need to trim 1" maybe 1.5" off the dress.  I just don't want her to trip on it because she can be a bit clutzy. LOL It is the dress in the link, if that helps it to all make more sense.

 

Here is the link again, so you don't have to look back for it.

 

If you're only putting it up 1", and the lining is 2" shorter than the outer layer, do you need to hem the lining at all?  My observation is that lining layers are usually shorter than outer layers, but not by a particular amount.  I assume it's mostly because if you tried to have them be exactly the same, that would be hard, so having the lining a bit shorter makes sure it doesn't peek out, especially if one of the fabric "grows" as it hangs or is worn (as some fabrics tend to do, especially along the bias line).  If the outer layer is tulle, I assume you can cut it?  So you might not need to sew anything.  That said, I STRONGLY second KatieinMIch's suggestion that you use SHARP scissors to do it.  It's not easy to cut a straight line, and dull scissors will make it much harder.  It would be best if you could mark the line first, while your dd is wearing the dress, either with a sewing marker of some kind or with a running stitch.  In my recent hemming extravaganza, we had our "model" try on each dress while standing on a low coffee table, and one of us held the skirt taut while the other marked (or, as the deadline approached and we still had more dresses to get through, threw caution to the wind and just cut without marking first).  

[Tap]

If you're only putting it up 1", and the lining is 2" shorter than the outer layer, do you need to hem the lining at all?  My observation is that lining layers are usually shorter than outer layers, but not by a particular amount.  I assume it's mostly because if you tried to have them be exactly the same, that would be hard, so having the lining a bit shorter makes sure it doesn't peek out, especially if one of the fabric "grows" as it hangs or is worn (as some fabrics tend to do, especially along the bias line).  If the outer layer is tulle, I assume you can cut it?  So you might not need to sew anything.  That said, I STRONGLY second KatieinMIch's suggestion that you use SHARP scissors to do it.  It's not easy to cut a straight line, and dull scissors will make it much harder.  It would be best if you could mark the line first, while your dd is wearing the dress, either with a sewing marker of some kind or with a running stitch.  In my recent hemming extravaganza, we had our "model" try on each dress while standing on a low coffee table, and one of us held the skirt taut while the other marked (or, as the deadline approached and we still had more dresses to get through, threw caution to the wind and just cut without marking first).  

I asked the alterations person at the shop about just cutting the outside and leaving the under layers and she mentioned the tripping hazard.  She determined 1" was the minimum to take off, because she could use her hand to lay 1" of fabric on the floor when my daughter had her shoes on.  Her reasoning was that if she could pretend to step on the fabric with her hand, then dd could do the same with her foot.  LOL   DD is a bit of a klutz, so I could understand the reasoning well enough. Technically, to keep the same proportions as they were designed, I would take 2 inches off of all the layers. I am thinking 1 inch to 1.5 inches under neath and 2 inches off the outside layer. So they are all closer to the same length, unless I need to keep the 2 inches difference for a specific reason. Fabric stretching over time, makes perfect sense for that reason. 

 

The tulle won't need to be hemmed, just the 2 fabic layers.

 

I have very, very sharp sewing scissors.  I keep them hidden so they have never touched anything but cloth, and everyone knows they are not allowed to touch them. LOL  

Edited April 4, 2016 by Tap

[Ms Brooks]

David's bridal does lovely dresses.What a nice dress your DD picked!  I just hemmed a David dress for my DD. I took off 5-6" on three layers, plus curved, ruffled layers on another dress. We are short people. All the advice given is spot on. I like to use my serger because it cuts and locks. I use a very narrow rolled hem with the serger. The tulle is cut and go. Remember don't take off too much. I do at least 3 try-ons with shoes before I get it just right. Tripping is a hazard. 

[Tap]

You have a baby lock serger sitting used in your attic??? Where do,you live. I'll hem your four layers and take your serger off your hands!!

 

I own a BL serger, but I have a daughter and a daughter in law who would love one!

LOL Yep, I know I laugh every time I see it.  I should sell the thing.  I live on the border of Ore/Washington by Portland, Ore.

 

I don't do a lot of sewing anymore, so when I do, I just grab my sewing machine.  I always figure it will take longer to learn how to use it and to buy the extra thread, than to just use the tread I already own...or worst case senerio, buy 1 spool of thread at the store for a few dollars.

 

I ended up with it, because a friend borrowed my carpet shampooer and it broke when she had it.  I told her not to think twice of it. I warned her before she borrowed it that it was on its last legs, so not to worry it if didn't work right, but she insisted I take the serger  as repayment (it was her grandmas who passed away, and the friend doesn't sew).  

[Tap]

David's bridal does lovely dresses.What a nice dress your DD picked!  I just hemmed a David dress for my DD. I took off 5-6" on three layers, plus curved, ruffled layers on another dress. We are short people. All the advice given is spot on. I like to use my serger because it cuts and locks. I use a very narrow rolled hem with the serger. The tulle is cut and go. Remember don't take off too much. I do at least 3 try-ons with shoes before I get it just right. Tripping is a hazard. 

Thanks. It looks really great on her.  She is 5'8" and wears a size 3.  One of the things she likes is that she doesn't look wafer thin in it.  She tried on so many dresses over the past few weeks, and it has a really nice shape on her. 

Edited April 4, 2016 by Tap

[Tsuga]

I need to hem dd's prom dress.  There are 4 layers.

 

A poly-satin-look liner, a coarse tulle, another satin-looking layer, and a soft tulle outer layer.

 

The outer layer will hide my small mess-ups so I figure I can do it myself instead of paying $60-80 to have it done for us.  Two layers need stitching, two layers will just be trimmed with scissors.  I am very meticulous so I know I can do the cutting fine, it is just doing the sewing that will take some patience. I can sew cotton fabric fine, I just don't have any experience sewing satin. I will start with the slip layer, so in case I get in over my head, I can still take it to the seamstress to finish it. :0)

 

Any suggestions?  Or good videos that have solid suggestions?  Normally, I would just hand stitch it, but this is a bit more than I want to hand stitch. LOL 

 

I always feel great paying a skilled tradeswoman for jobs that I can't handle. For me, that's most of them. However, while it costs money, I think they are worth it. One woman even asked me why I didn't just buy a new dress. I was like, "I value the work you are doing!" (I buy thrift / used and then have them tailored.)

 

Made her happy and I get compliments on the fit all the time.

 

I have no sewing advice. It was very cheap to get done at the dry cleaning place.

[Tap]

I always feel great paying a skilled tradeswoman for jobs that I can't handle. For me, that's most of them. However, while it costs money, I think they are worth it. One woman even asked me why I didn't just buy a new dress. I was like, "I value the work you are doing!" (I buy thrift / used and then have them tailored.)

 

Made her happy and I get compliments on the fit all the time.

 

I have no sewing advice. It was very cheap to get done at the dry cleaning place.

I used to do the same thing, but it seems to be getting more and more expensive here.  Last time I took a dress to be altered, I was charged $60 to take an inch down each side of a lining and the outer lace layer, of a column dress. 

 

I was unhappy with the fit when I got home, and ended up taking it in another inch on each side myself. That is how far off of what I wanted, the alteration was.  I needed the dress that night, so the seamstress couldn't fix it in time.  LOL  That was the last time I used her. 

 

I have done all the work myself since then. There are certain fabrics I wouldn't touch, but this is fairly simple, so I think I can handle it.

[gardenmom5]

I'd do a rolled hem on the poly layers.

[KatieJ]

This is exactly how I imagined doing it. I don't know if I learned this way in Home-Ec class eons ago, or if I saw my mom do it, but this makes the most sense to me.

 

I have hemmed sheer curtains this way, but never a slippery fabric, so I wasn't sure if it was still the same method or not.

 

Since you have formal experience, One question I do have....

Right now the outer mesh, is 2 inches longer than the layers under it. The lining (next the skin), the coarse tulle (built-in crinoline?), and outer satin layer are all the same length. The outermost tulle/mesh is 2 inches longer. Is that to reduce tripping/snagging etc? I assume I keep the same ratios? I only need to trim 1" maybe 1.5" off the dress. I just don't want her to trip on it because she can be a bit clutzy. LOL It is the dress in the link, if that helps it to all make more sense.

 

Here is the link again, so you don't have to look back for it.

I am not sure why there is two inches difference but trip hazard makes sense to me.

The stiff layer is to act as a crinoline, and it probably just needs to have the seams reinforced and cut off. Reinforced the seam so it won't come apart.

 

I think the length of the ratio of inner to outer is up to you. But if she might trip, keeping the under layers shorter is what you need. I would probably go for an inch and a half difference.

She should always have on the undergarments she in tends to wear as well as the shoe she is going to wear. No discussion there. No shoes, no bra, no mark the hem, no exceptions. I have stories if you want back up for that advice.

I have my gals stand on an old coffee table and I sit on the couch and pin. They twirl as needed.

 

Your outer layer should be about an inch off the floor, not touching it, to avoid tripping.

 

Sadly Michigan is too far to come help you out!

 

I personally have never done a rolled hem on the layers of a formal gown like this one. Ruffled layers yes. There is no going back once it's cut.

With my method, you don't cut off the excess until you are sure the hem is in the correct place.

 

If the straps need shortening, do that before you mark the hem.

Edited April 4, 2016 by KatieinMich

[justasque]

...She should always have on the undergarments she in tends to wear as well as the shoe she is going to wear. No discussion there. No shoes, no bra, no mark the hem, no exceptions.....

 

This.  A thousand times this.  No exceptions.

[Tap]

I am not sure why there is two inches difference but trip hazard makes sense to me.

The stiff layer is to act as a crinoline, and it probably just needs to have the seams reinforced and cut off. Reinforced the seam so it won't come apart.

 

I think the length of the ratio of inner to outer is up to you. But if she might trip, keeping the under layers shorter is what you need. I would probably go for an inch and a half difference.

She should always have on the undergarments she in tends to wear as well as the shoe she is going to wear. No discussion there. No shoes, no bra, no mark the hem, no exceptions. I have stories if you want back up for that advice.

I have my gals stand on an old coffee table and I sit on the couch and pin. They twirl as needed.

 

Your outer layer should be about an inch off the floor, not touching it, to avoid tripping.

 

Sadly Michigan is too far to come help you out!

 

I personally have never done a rolled hem on the layers of a formal gown like this one. Ruffled layers yes. There is no going back once it's cut.

With my method, you don't cut off the excess until you are sure the hem is in the correct place.

 

If the straps need shortening, do that before you mark the hem.

 

 

This.  A thousand times this.  No exceptions.

 

 

Already bought and in hand.  :0)  I wouldn't dare touch it without.  Her date is shorter than she is, so she is wearing very flat sandals.  The dress will  be as short as it can be on her, so there will be no mercy if I cut it wrong. 

[Forget-Me-Not]

LOL Yep, I know I laugh every time I see it. I should sell the thing. I live on the border of Ore/Washington by Portland, Ore.

 

I don't do a lot of sewing anymore, so when I do, I just grab my sewing machine. I always figure it will take longer to learn how to use it and to buy the extra thread, than to just use the tread I already own...or worst case senerio, buy 1 spool of thread at the store for a few dollars.

 

I ended up with it, because a friend borrowed my carpet shampooer and it broke when she had it. I told her not to think twice of it. I warned her before she borrowed it that it was on its last legs, so not to worry it if didn't work right, but she insisted I take the serger as repayment (it was her grandmas who passed away, and the friend doesn't sew).

If it's been sitting for some time, it will need to be cleaned and lubed thoroughly before use or it will likely jam and then the timing will need to be fixed (ask me how I know). The oil gets gummy over time. You may have known that, but I figured I'd pass it along just in case ;) Edited April 4, 2016 by Forget-me-not

[Tap]

If it's been sitting for some time, it will need to be cleaned and lubed thoroughly before use or it will likely jam and then the timing will need to be fixed (ask me how I know). The oil gets gummy over time. You may have known that, but I figured I'd pass it along just in case ;)

Thanks for the reminder!  

 

I do oil my sewing machine periodically, but may not have thought about it with the serger. I keep the oil next to my bobbins so I don't forget.  Since this is a different situation, I could have easily forgot.

 

I think I am going to pull it out and just play with it.  My older kids both made PJ pants when they were around dd9s age, so I may see if dd9 is interested in trying her hand at sewing.  We can both play around and maybe we can use the serger for the pants.  

[KatieJ]

Thanks for the reminder!

 

I do oil my sewing machine periodically, but may not have thought about it with the serger. I keep the oil next to my bobbins so I don't forget. Since this is a different situation, I could have easily forgot.

 

I think I am going to pull it out and just play with it. My older kids both made PJ pants when they were around dd9s age, so I may see if dd9 is interested in trying her hand at sewing. We can both play around and maybe we can use the serger for the pants.

Baby lock reps tell you that they don't want you to oil them. They want young bring them in. I would call and get some advice, maybe from a reliable machine repair shop .

[Tap]

Baby lock reps tell you that they don't want you to oil them. They want young bring them in. I would call and get some advice, maybe from a reliable machine repair shop .

LOL good to know.

 

 

 

I was actually thinking about taking both it and my machine to the sewing machine store and ask them if they had any resale value.  I want to change my machine and if I can get a little bit between them both, I thought I may just get a different sewing machine all together.

 

I go back and forth.  On one hand I want to teach dd9 to sew, but then I remember how fussy this machine is and then I remember the hassle that the machine was the last time I used it....and then I don't want to sew at all, let alone teach someone else. 

 

My sewing machine was my husband's grandmother's who was a tailor and it was her home machine. It is in a solid wood cabinet and for some reason, this machine and I have just never really gotten along. I was raised on classic Singers and this one is a Riccar.  I don't know if that is why I don't like it or if it just has issues.  It has always seemed a bit fussy to me.  The tension gets off and I seem to have to adjust it quite a bit. 

 

I think I would sew more if I had a machine that I preferred.  I was thinking that this may be the perfect time to do this.  I am not expecting a lot from either one,  but I know sometimes stores will give you a better deal on a new machine if you are trading in, since they will make profit on the trade in as well as your purchase. 

Edited April 5, 2016 by Tap