Anyone know of a TRULY non-yellowing polyurethane to put over white paint?

[HappyGrace]

I  have never used polyurethane before but have heard it can yellow and I want to make sure it doesn't do that to my newly painted tabletop! Thanks.

[Cricket]

Get a water-based polyurethane instead of oil-based.

[NicksMama-Zack's Mama Too]

This blogger uses paste wax...

http://www.centsationalgirl.com/2012/03/painting-a-kitchen-table/

[Plink]

We usually discourage our customers from using poly over paint.  It simply isn't very effective, and the results aren't great.  It takes many coats of water based poly (the non-yellowing kind) to create a protective layer, but that many coats usually results in bubbles unless you are absolutely perfect with your application.

 

If you want a very durable finish, consider using enamel instead of latex paint.  Easy application, beautiful and durable results.

[Harriet Vane]

Paste wax makes a nice finish but the item has to be re-waxed yearly, which is a royal pain. It should really be done twice a year, but an item that is not touched a lot can go longer. (Ask me how I know . . . )

 

Water-based urethane is a good option.

 

If the table is is painted then it does not need to be sealed with a clear coat. Using polyurethane over paint just ends up icky.

[HappyGrace]

I should have mentioned-this is to go over Annie Sloan Chalk Paint. I don't think the wax will be durable enough as this is for the table we eat on and homeschool on! PLUS it would take three coats at least, and then I'd have to reapply yearly. AND we need to start using the table soon but the wax takes 21 days to cure.

 

I already painted it with the Chalk Paint and need a durable clear coat finish (hopefully fairly matte).

 

I've been googling and it seems a water-based wipe on polyurethane? Any good brands you can recommend that won't yellow?

 

Liberty-you have me so worried about poly now-what would you recommend in this case, where the table is already painted with the Chalk Paint?

[Plink]

Oops, I misunderstood your original post.  

 

In your case, poly isn't a bad choice.  But you will need to work very carefully. Here is my over-the-top system for flawless poly application. 

 

(I'm assuming your chalk paint is water based.  I've never worked with that product personally, so double check.  If it is oil based you will do much better to use an oil based product.)

 

Water based polyurethane application:

 

Prep your table thoroughly.  Use a damp cloth to moisten the wood and slightly raise the grain, then sand it lightly with fine grit (I like 220) sandpaper.  Never use steel wool to smooth your piece.  It can leave behind tiny flecks of metal that the water in the poly will rust over time and are almost impossible to remove.  Wash your piece with a damp rag thoroughly to remove any and all traces of dust, vacuum the room, then wipe again.

 

Use only waterbased poly and a high quality synthetic brush.  Oil based poly will yellow, and cheap brushes will give you cheap looking results.  Never use a foam brush or roller, because they make lots of bubbles.

 

Stir your poly very slowly and gently.  NEVER shake it - again, we don't want to add any more bubbles than necessary.

 

Work indoors.  Do not attempt to do any poly application outdoors - the dust and pollen in the air will cause bubbles.

 

Do not work from the original bucket because leaving it open for a long time will allow dust to enter the can.  Instead, transfer a moderate amount of poly into a clean container and refill often.

 

Don't scrape your brush against the bucket to remove excess poly, tap once on the side.  This will make sure that you are working with sufficient product to prevent the brush from dragging.  Make sure that you are able to work with only light pressure.  If you feel you need to press hard, you don't have enough poly on your brush.  On the other hand, you don't want so much on your brush that you are dripping or causing runs.

 

Brush each area only once in long, even strokes - avoid the urge to brush over areas that have already been covered.  This only adds roughness and bubbles.  You will be doing several coats, so any missed spots will be hit in the next application.

 

When applying, make sure that you brush with the grain of the wood, even if you can't see it.  This will make any brush marks make sense in the finished product. Be careful when working on the legs to avoid runs.  Use thinner coats here and change the angle that you are working at often so that you can see your workspace thoroughly.  If a run does occur, carefully use a razor blade to remove the worst of the run, then sand it smooth before your next coat.

 

Allow the product to dry thoroughly.  This usually takes longer than the directions on the can state, unless you live in an extremely dry climate.

 

When you are working with poly any dust or small flaws will be amplified with each new coat, so you will need to sand lightly between each coat with 220 grit sandpaper or finer.  This will knock off the tops of any bubbles and allow for a smoother finish.  Wash off all dust thoroughly with a slightly damp rag.  Vacuum, and wipe again.  

 

Repeat - I would do at least 4 coats on a table, preferably 6. 12 isn't unreasonable, even though it sounds crazy.  Water based poly is very thin, and doesn't offer the same protection as oil based products.  You know your family.  If they have a tendency to scrape materials across your table top, or drum on the edges, you will want more coats.

 

Post pictures when you are finished!!!

[HappyGrace]

Wow, Liberty-that is a well-explained method, thank you!

 

The whole reason I did chalk paint was to avoid so much work. I'm so bummed. They tell you there's no sanding, priming, etc, but they don't tell you that the waxing at the end is a huge pain!

[plansrme]

Wow, Liberty-that is a well-explained method, thank you!

 

The whole reason I did chalk paint was to avoid so much work. I'm so bummed. They tell you there's no sanding, priming, etc, but they don't tell you that the waxing at the end is a huge pain!

I stripped, resained and waxed a bunch of six-panel doors last summer (in my garage, in Atlanta; I have still not cooled off), and the waxing was no big deal. Wax on, wax off. I actually loved the waxing because of how it mellowed the finish--it was fun, after all of that work, to see the finish mature. I used rags torn from old t-shirts. I know once you wax you are stuck with it and can't poly over it without removing it, but it sounds a lot easier than poly-ing, and it is a lot more fool-proof. And despite the gallons of sweat it cost me, I still love my doors.