Another Furniture Painting Question: Hive Dumpster Divers, pls tell me..............

[MariannNOVA]

if you wanted to paint a piece of oak furniture (an old piece - you know, with those wheels on the bottom), and have it in the room looking functional and gorgeous in no time at all,

 

HOW WOULD YOU DO IT?

 

I saw a piece at Re-Store yesterday --

 

I am thinking no for milk paint (which I have totally botched before).

 

I really want to simply go to Sherwin Williams, select a 'sample' (their samples are ample) of a color that coordinates with my dining room - or just go with black- prep the piece and paint away.

 

I know I already asked this: Do I have to sand alot -- or can I get away with not sanding (probably not, right?) and prime, and if I prime, KILZ, right?

 

i've read about Liquid Sandpaper. Has anyone used it? Thoughts about it?

 

And stay tuned, I need help re-arranging the living room furniture. Last time house was on the market, folks did not care for the way the room was configured and it hurt us alot (not emotionally, ;) but from a first impression point of view).

Edited January 15, 2012 by MariannNOVA

[kahlanne]

It really depends on the finished look your going for. If I am trying for the pottery barn aged finish, I will lightly sand and then paint away without priming. Then lightly sand in areas that would normally show wear. If you prime and then sand, the white of primer will shoe through. This is okay if it is the look your going for. If it still looks too new in the solid areas, you can wash over it with a glaze made with brown craft paint and water or even stain. Wash it on and wipe off in direction of grain. If you are going with a clean new paint finish that isn't aged, I would prime with kilz and paint after fully dried.

[Beach Mom]

I have painted several pieces, and as long as you sand WELL, and use a dark color (black etc.) you don't have to prime (at least I never do). I only prime when I am covering peeling paint or going from a very dark finish to a lighter color and not distressing it.

 

The key is to use good quality paint or stain, a medium grade sand paper or quality sander (I use my DH if I can:lol:) and run tack cloth over the piece after you sand it.

 

You will get a better finish if you do not use a gloss paint. If you are going for black, Minwax makes a black stain with built in poly that you paint on, I find it much more forgiving than black paint followed by poly and much quicker too. It is my new favorite, and comes in other colors too.

[MariannNOVA]

It really depends on the finished look your going for. If I am trying for the pottery barn aged finish, I will lightly sand and then paint away without priming. Then lightly sand in areas that would normally show wear. If you prime and then sand, the white of primer will shoe through. This is okay if it is the look your going for. If it still looks too new in the solid areas, you can wash over it with a glaze made with brown craft paint and water or even stain. Wash it on and wipe off in direction of grain. If you are going with a clean new paint finish that isn't aged, I would prime with kilz and paint after fully dried.[/QUOTE]

 

In red, that is what I am going for. Thanks. your suggestions help.:)

[MariannNOVA]

I have painted several pieces, and as long as you sand WELL, and use a dark color (black etc.) you don't have to prime (at least I never do). I only prime when I am covering peeling paint or going from a very dark finish to a lighter color and not distressing it.

 

The key is to use good quality paint or stain, a medium grade sand paper or quality sander (I use my DH if I can:lol:) and run tack cloth over the piece after you sand it.

 

You will get a better finish if you do not use a gloss paint. If you are going for black, Minwax makes a black stain with built in poly that you paint on, I find it much more forgiving than black paint followed by poly and much quicker too. It is my new favorite, and comes in other colors too.

 

Thank you -- very helpful -- I was wondering about miniwax stain with the built in poly.:)

[kahlanne]

Since that is what you are going for, definitely sand well, prime, and then paint. I haven't used the black stain but sound promising.

[samba]

I've painted furniture a few times. One of my most successful jobs was painting a bookshelf and entertainment cabinet. The wood was very nice to begin with (older Ethan Allen piece)...I think the quality of the wood determines how much prep is needed. I sanded very lightly and did not use a primer. I went with Old Village paints, satin black latex. Here's a link.

 

http://www.old-village.com/products.html

 

We've moved houses a couple of times with this furniture and it still looks great.

 

HTH,

Carolyn

 

PS. Have you used Sherwin-Williams? I know a lot of people do, but I've never had good luck with their paints. I like Benjamin Moore, Old Village and Martha Stewart.

[MariannNOVA]

I've painted furniture a few times. One of my most successful jobs was painting a bookshelf and entertainment cabinet. The wood was very nice to begin with (older Ethan Allen piece)...I think the quality of the wood determines how much prep is needed. I sanded very lightly and did not use a primer. I went with Old Village paints, satin black latex. Here's a link.

 

http://www.old-village.com/products.html

 

We've moved houses a couple of times with this furniture and it still looks great.

 

HTH,

Carolyn

 

PS. Have you used Sherwin-Williams? I know a lot of people do, but I've never had good luck with their paints. I like Benjamin Moore, Old Village and Martha Stewart.

 

 

Yes, I like their paints -- I also like Martha Stewart and Benjamin Moore. I'm thinking SW b/c they are open on Sunday (;)) and their 'sample' containers of paint are reasonably priced and I would be able to get the job done with one container. But, the mini wax with poly is sounding like apossibility as well.

[AuntieM]

I do recommend a primer, and a good one at that. Zinsser/Bullseye is the one I like. It covers a multitude of sins and ensures that your finished color is the color you want it to be, even and true.

 

If there's any kind of lacquer or finish on the original piece, do sand, but a good primer will cover it well and give a good base for the paint color to grab onto. I think I paid $12-$14 for the last gallon I bought (Zinsser makes some pricier ones, but the one at this price point is the one I use and it's sufficient).

 

I like satin for painted furniture. It provides a wipeable finish yet it's not too glossy. If you want it to look sleek as a finished product, maybe go with semigloss. High gloss for that Chinese-lacquered look! Also, for sleek and formal, I think you will need to be prepared to sand between coats. It takes more time but the time spent is evident in the finished product.

 

I think a red sideboard sound wonderful! Have you thought about a faux marble or granite finish for the top?

 

As for a protective layer --- I have mixed feelings. I gave seen too many polyurethanes go yellow. I know it's only supposed to happen with oil based ones, not latex, but...but...but....:tongue_smilie:

 

You can use a small, low pile roller brush, but don't use a foam roller. They leave teeny tiny paint bubbles. Learned that the hard way. Good thing that dresser was free!

 

I will try to post pictures of my most recent furniture facelift. If I can figure out how.

[MariannNOVA]

I do recommend a primer, and a good one at that. Zinsser/Bullseye is the one I like. It covers a multitude of sins and ensures that your finished color is the color you want it to be, even and true.

 

If there's any kind of lacquer or finish on the original piece, do sand, but a good primer will cover it well and give a good base for the paint color to grab onto. I think I paid $12-$14 for the last gallon I bought (Zinsser makes some pricier ones, but the one at this price point is the one I use and it's sufficient).

 

I like satin for painted furniture. It provides a wipeable finish yet it's not too glossy. If you want it to look sleek as a finished product, maybe go with semigloss. High gloss for that Chinese-lacquered look! Also, for sleek and formal, I think you will need to be prepared to sand between coats. It takes more time but the time spent is evident in the finished product.

 

I think a red sideboard sound wonderful! Have you thought about a faux marble or granite finish for the top?

 

As for a protective layer --- I have mixed feelings. I gave seen too many polyurethanes go yellow. I know it's only supposed to happen with oil based ones, not latex, but...but...but....:tongue_smilie:

 

You can use a small, low pile roller brush, but don't use a foam roller. They leave teeny tiny paint bubbles. Learned that the hard way. Good thing that dresser was free!

 

I will try to post pictures of my most recent furniture facelift. If I can figure out how.

 

 

I would love to see photos -- you can email them to me -- you have my email addy.

 

I don't want gloss -- thought about it -- isn't the look I want here. I would love red - love the warmth factor, but I have to mull it over some more. It would be more of a burgundy/claret than red - a sort of Canadian brick red that matches the AGA - which is 20 feet away on the opposite wall.

 

decisions, decisions.:001_huh: