Who's been to Petra?

[creekland]

With youngest son studying abroad in Jordan fall semester (end of Aug to end of Dec) and Petra being one place I've always wanted to see in person... I'm doing some mental calculations.

 

Has anyone been there (from Amman) who can offer tips/thoughts?  I assume we'd be staying in a hotel in Amman - then there seems to be the options of bus trips or individual chauffeurs?  Are there better days/months to go?

[J-rap]

I have!  But it was years ago (back in the 80's).  It was absolutely amazing!  I had an interesting experience there.  I actually don't remember too much about the logistics of it at all, so I'm not really much help.  We took a "service" taxi there.  At the time, they were very inexpensive.  If I can find my travel journal from those days, I'll see if I can get more info for you.

 

How exciting for your son to be studying there!  Will he be in Amman?

[Sara in AZ]

I've been! It was 20 years ago as part of a study abroad to Jerusalem. So transportation was arranged for us. But I remember we did stay in a hotel in Amman and take a bus from there. I'm sure there are nicer times of year to go, but we went in July. It was hot, but we survived. You walk through a long canyon to get there (or ride a donkey of you want), and it's really shady. Such an amazing place!! I hope you get to go!!

[maize]

I would go in November or December. I spent the month of May on an archeology dig there years ago and it was horrendously hot--we did field work as early in the morning as possible and spent afternoons in the lab. No way would I want to be there in August.

[East Coast Sue]

I went in the mid 1990's. I can't remember the name of the place where we stayed but it was close to Petra. It was an amazing experience and I'm really glad I got to go.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[creekland]

I have!  But it was years ago (back in the 80's).  It was absolutely amazing!  I had an interesting experience there.  I actually don't remember too much about the logistics of it at all, so I'm not really much help.  We took a "service" taxi there.  At the time, they were very inexpensive.  If I can find my travel journal from those days, I'll see if I can get more info for you.

 

How exciting for your son to be studying there!  Will he be in Amman?

 

Yes, he will be in Amman.  I'm not sure he'll be able to go with us as we're told skipping classes is really frowned upon.  It will depend upon his breaks, but I expect, as with here, going during breaks will be more crowded.  We're going to see how it plays out schedule-wise once he's there and settled in.

 

I've been! It was 20 years ago as part of a study abroad to Jerusalem. So transportation was arranged for us. But I remember we did stay in a hotel in Amman and take a bus from there. I'm sure there are nicer times of year to go, but we went in July. It was hot, but we survived. You walk through a long canyon to get there (or ride a donkey of you want), and it's really shady. Such an amazing place!! I hope you get to go!!

 

This is one of the things I'm really looking forward to seeing.  I've heard it's an incredible entrance to an incredible site.

 

I would go in November or December. I spent the month of May on an archeology dig there years ago and it was horrendously hot--we did field work as early in the morning as possible and spent afternoons in the lab. No way would I want to be there in August.

 

Thanks!  Nov could be a good month for us - or perhaps early Dec too.  It would give me more time to save and plan over trying for Sept/Oct.

[creekland]

I went in the mid 1990's. I can't remember the name of the place where we stayed but it was close to Petra. It was an amazing experience and I'm really glad I got to go.

 

Do you remember which month and if you liked/disliked the weather?  We could have a window of late Sept to early Dec.

[maize]

You might consider staying in Wadi Musa and really exploring the surrounding area.

https://www.tripadvisor.com/Hotels-g318895-Petra_Wadi_Musa_Ma_in_Governorate-Hotels.html

[creekland]

You might consider staying in Wadi Musa and really exploring the surrounding area.

https://www.tripadvisor.com/Hotels-g318895-Petra_Wadi_Musa_Ma_in_Governorate-Hotels.html

 

We might.  Technically we'd be going there to visit with youngest, but if he's only free on the weekend, we might stretch out our trip and do more days near Petra on our own.  Right now - anything is possible.  He just firmed up that he's going, so I'm at the very beginning planning stage.

 

ETA:  ps  LOVE the prices on that link - VERY affordable (at least in Oct on the dates I put in).

Edited May 2, 2017 by creekland

[FaithManor]

Never been. Just wanted to say that my "passport" is jealous!!!

 

:D

[solascriptura]

Jealous! It's on my bucket list!

[J-rap]

I have!  But it was years ago (back in the 80's).  It was absolutely amazing!  I had an interesting experience there.  I actually don't remember too much about the logistics of it at all, so I'm not really much help.  We took a "service" taxi there.  At the time, they were very inexpensive.  If I can find my travel journal from those days, I'll see if I can get more info for you.

 

How exciting for your son to be studying there!  Will he be in Amman?

 

Well I pulled out my old travel journal, and got some more info.  Of course this is from the 80's!  I'm sure things have changed quite a bit.

 

We stayed overnight in Amman before we went to Petra.  At the time, there was just one very early morning bus to Petra each day (I'm sure there are more now), so we opted to take a service taxi, which took about 3.5 hours and cost around $2.85 each!  (I'm sure THAT'S changed!)   :)

 

After spending the day there, we stopped by a cold drink stand run by some Beduin in the area.  We met the son of a sheikh there who invited us to camp over night in a cave nearby, for free.  For a cave, it was really nice, with a door, rugs on the floor, and pads to sleep on!  It was a beautiful, hilly area, where many Beduin families lived in tents and caves.  One of the families invited us to dinner that evening, which was outside over a fire.  We sat on mats on the ground and ate cooked goat with our right hands, men in one area and women and children in another.  (Though they let me stay with my husband.)  This was during Ramadan so was an extra special feast.

 

That evening, we met the sheikh himself, and he offered to trade my dh a herd of goats for me!  (We never knew for sure if he was joking or not!)

 

The next day we explored the hills in the area (by foot), which were full of hundreds if not thousands of little caves.  At one time, they were all homes.  Some of them still were.  We found a human skeleton in one!  Mid-afternoon, we left the Petra area for Aqaba, again in a service taxi.  We stayed in Aqaba for one night, and then rented a car and drove to Wadi Rum, camped in the dessert for one night (just in the sand, no tent), and drove back to Aqaba the next day.  From Aqaba, we took a bus back to Amman.

 

So there you go!  It was fun to re-read my journal and remember what we did.  We went in June and it was quite hot, but it didn't dampen our trip.  I know you didn't ask for all the other info (going to Aqaba, etc.), but it might give you some more ideas on things you can do in the area.  My husband spoke Arabic so it made traveling in the area so much easier.  (We were actually living in Irbid, Jordan, at the time.)

 

It would be interesting to know how much everything has changed since then.  I did make a note in my journal that the government was planning to move all of the Beduin who lived in the Petra area into a designated area and make the park more commercialized/touristy.

Edited May 3, 2017 by J-rap

[DawnM]

I have!  But it was years ago (back in the 80's).  It was absolutely amazing!  I had an interesting experience there.  I actually don't remember too much about the logistics of it at all, so I'm not really much help.  We took a "service" taxi there.  At the time, they were very inexpensive.  If I can find my travel journal from those days, I'll see if I can get more info for you.

 

How exciting for your son to be studying there!  Will he be in Amman?

 

That was me too.  I was there in the 80s.  Pretty sure I won't be much help for a trip now.

[mommyoffive]

So want to go there.   

 

Is the area safe?

[Farrar]

Oh so jealous! My step-father went when he was in Jordan as part of a business exchange. It seemed pretty incredible.

[YaelAldrich]

My DH, friends, and I went in 1999 from Israel. We went through Eilat though. We stayed in a three star type hotel. We felt so spoiled with the T.V. and carpeting after our Spartan life in yeshiva! We thought we'd be the only Orthodox Jews there but we met up with a group from a yeshiva going to the grave of Aaron, Moses' brother. We joined them for the several hour camel, donkey, and foot trip up a mountain just outside the park. It was guarded by a one eyed, elderly man with a large sword! We prayed, did a naming ceremony for our friend, and ate. We came back down and the took in the ruins. I wish we could do it with our children, but I'm sure we wouldn't be quite as welcome now. :(

[creekland]

So want to go there.   

 

Is the area safe?

 

Honestly?  It's as safe as anywhere else in the world right now.  One never knows where a lunatic will show up - or a texting driver...  We (personally) don't opt to stop living due to the "what ifs."  Plenty of tourists go their daily.  Plenty of others live there.  In general, their crime rate for most crimes is lower than the US.  You can look at some general comparisons (not all is scientific data, but the rate sources look decent) here:

 

http://www.nationmaster.com/country-info/compare/Jordan/United-States/Crime

 

Well I pulled out my old travel journal, and got some more info.  Of course this is from the 80's!  I'm sure things have changed quite a bit.

 

We stayed overnight in Amman before we went to Petra.  At the time, there was just one very early morning bus to Petra each day (I'm sure there are more now), so we opted to take a service taxi, which took about 3.5 hours and cost around $2.85 each!  (I'm sure THAT'S changed!)   :)

 

After spending the day there, we stopped by a cold drink stand run by some Beduin in the area.  We met the son of a sheikh there who invited us to camp over night in a cave nearby, for free.  For a cave, it was really nice, with a door, rugs on the floor, and pads to sleep on!  It was a beautiful, hilly area, where many Beduin families lived in tents and caves.  One of the families invited us to dinner that evening, which was outside over a fire.  We sat on mats on the ground and ate cooked goat with our right hands, men in one area and women and children in another.  (Though they let me stay with my husband.)  This was during Ramadan so was an extra special feast.

 

That evening, we met the sheikh himself, and he offered to trade my dh a herd of goats for me!  (We never knew for sure if he was joking or not!)

 

The next day we explored the hills in the area (by foot), which were full of hundreds if not thousands of little caves.  At one time, they were all homes.  Some of them still were.  We found a human skeleton in one!  Mid-afternoon, we left the Petra area for Aqaba, again in a service taxi.  We stayed in Aqaba for one night, and then rented a car and drove to Wadi Rum, camped in the dessert for one night (just in the sand, no tent), and drove back to Aqaba the next day.  From Aqaba, we took a bus back to Amman.

 

So there you go!  It was fun to re-read my journal and remember what we did.  We went in June and it was quite hot, but it didn't dampen our trip.  I know you didn't ask for all the other info (going to Aqaba, etc.), but it might give you some more ideas on things you can do in the area.  My husband spoke Arabic so it made traveling in the area so much easier.  (We were actually living in Yarmouk, Jordan, at the time.)

 

It would be interesting to know how much everything has changed since then.  I did make a note in my journal that the government was planning to move all of the Beduin who lived in the Petra area into a designated area and make the park more commercialized/touristy.

 

That sounds really fun!  My son is the one who speaks Arabic - hence it would be nice if he were able to go with us on the side trip part.  Time will tell.  I'm only good for French and English (sigh).  I'm hoping for a tourist location, that will suffice for when he isn't with us.

Edited May 2, 2017 by creekland

[....]

So want to go there.   

 

Is the area safe?

 

I'm more cynical than most people, so keep that in mind when you read my post.  I lived all over the Middle East and saw a lot.  Just BE careful - but that needs to be said anywhere you travel overseas.  You really need to be aware of your situation at all times.  I worked as an interpreter and most of my days involved situations with westerners getting into trouble/getting hurt for different reasons.  

 

I've been to Petra.  Be careful going inside the little buildings built into the rock.  They're dark inside and men were using them as bathrooms when I was there.  That was the most uncomfortable thing about the visit.  The government didn't seem to be taking very good care of the area. 

 

Modest dress as always in that region.  I always wore pants/long sleeve shirt.  I walked to class and saw women being terrorized by groups of men for wearing make-up (in Amman).  That made a hugely sad and lasting impression on me in that city.  It also wasn't unusual for people to honk or whistle when they passed by.  

 

Be careful, travel with a buddy, I would leave an itinerary with a friend if I had one back at the hotel or something...don't leave your headlights on for hours at a time and drain your battery (stupidly, we did that out in the middle of absolute nowhere and had to get help from local truck drivers).  Be careful if you drive.  Lots and lots of car accidents.  It's not uncommon to come over a hill and there's an entire herd of sheep in the road.  Two of my coworkers died in a car accident when we were there.

 

Just my 2 cents. 

 

YaelAldrich - I lived in Eilat for awhile, too.  What a neat aquarium they have!

[Seasider]

Jealous! It's on my bucket list!

My exact thought, you got the words out first!

 

I hope all the details work out for this wonderful adventure, creekland!

[creekland]

How feasible is it to go to Petra on our own without knowing Arabic?  English or French are the only languages we're able to travel with.  I'm sure I can learn some of the basic phrases, but not nearly enough to understand a true conversation.

 

Should we make sure youngest can go with us?  Or hire a guide/translator?  Or join a tour?  I've never been to that area of our planet.  Where we've gone before, English and/or French has been fine - esp in tourist areas.

[YaelAldrich]

How feasible is it to go to Petra on our own without knowing Arabic?  English or French are the only languages we're able to travel with.  I'm sure I can learn some of the basic phrases, but not nearly enough to understand a true conversation.

 

Should we make sure youngest can go with us?  Or hire a guide/translator?  Or join a tour?  I've never been to that area of our planet.  Where we've gone before, English and/or French has been fine - esp in tourist areas.

Everyone we interacted with spoke some  English.  I wouldn't worry overly much.  Money talks good too (sic)!  Don't hesitate to bargain hard - it's the local culture. Otherwise, people will be happy to rip you off.  Look in good travel guides for hotel recommendations - there are high price/ Euro-style hotels, smaller places that are locally run, and hostels (which could be fine or scary).

 

Edited for a comment and a comma.

Edited May 3, 2017 by YaelAldrich

[creekland]

Just updating in case anyone is wondering and finding this thread.  We just finished the day in Petra... It was everything I imagined and far, far more.  We loved it.

 

I like Jordan in general (except for all the trash!!!), but Petra...wow! (Petra is mostly clean - it's the rest of Jordan that has trash similar to other second and third world countries, but for whatever reason, I expected it to be different here.)

 

If one likes history and/or geology, it ought to be on one's Bucket List.  The Siq (slot canyon), the rocks, the 2000+ year old carvings, the water channels, the road.  These are the things that memorize Creekland and family.  I like walking on some of the same stones folks used oodles of years ago and trying to picture their lives.  I like seeing the remains of clay piping for water channels and realizing "ancient" man wasn't "dumb!"  I'm artistically challenged, so seeing such massive art, engineering, and building that has lasted so long is just a wow factor.  There's no way I could be a master stone worker the way these folks were.  I can see why it got voted in as one of the new Seven Wonders of the World.

 

Ok, I wasn't fond of how the folks treat the animals either, esp donkeys and horses (sigh), but I'd still come again if there weren't so many other places on this planet I still need to see.

 

ps  It's not a place for young kids or the physically disabled.  There were plenty of college kids and early 20s or 30s, a group of high school kids on a field trip, and older folks like us - 50s - (with everything in between), but senior citizens either couldn't do as much or were impressively in shape (some were!).  I have breathing issues with hills, so we all opted for donkey rides up the 800 or so steps to the Monastery (sorry donkeys!), but the rest was fine for those who can walk.  We logged in 11+ miles today on our phones before they died (too many pictures).  Hubby's didn't die and said we got 14 miles in, but I suspect his was pretty darn generous looking at a map and where we actually went.  Between 11 and 12 is more accurate.

 

pps  I can also say we love the Edom Hotel for lodging - very convenient, not terribly expensive, quite nice for our standards (which aren't too high, but aren't too low either).  Wear sturdy shoes.

[mommyoffive]

It is on my list now.  I am so glad you got to go. 

 

 

[creekland]

It is on my list now.  I am so glad you got to go. 

 

Me too.  I had expectations from what I knew via word of mouth and documentaries.  Seeing it in person - actually being here and filling in the mental map - exceeded those expectations.

 

We enjoyed Jerash (ruins) and Aljun (castle) up near Amman too - and Shobak (castle) on the way here - but get a guide for that last one as there are no signs explaining much.  There are in Jerash and Aljun.  Karak was nice too, but we should have hired a guide there (didn't know that at the time) and it's supposedly on the "red flag" list from our state dept (shrug), so one can stick to the others.

 

Tomorrow we'll be out at Wadi Rum (Wadi means Valley and Rum means Sand).  This is the place they've filmed many movies including Lawrence of Arabia and The Martian, etc.  But I don't know if that can top Petra for me.  I'm sure it will add to the trip in general.

[thessa516]

Sounds fantastic, it's definitely on my bucket list. Do you blog about your travels? I'd love to read about them.

[Amira]

I love Petra. It's so nice when a place you've wanted to go exceeds your expectations.

 

We're planning on going to next largest Nabatean city soon.  It's in Saudi Arabia and therefore has almost no visitors.

 

Nothing else in Jordan topped Petra for me either.  I'

[creekland]

Sounds fantastic, it's definitely on my bucket list. Do you blog about your travels? I'd love to read about them.

 

I haven't, no.  It's something I've mused about for my empty nesting life as we resume going more places.  For the past few years most of our travel has been associated with college visits or places we've been many times before like Canada, Niagara Falls, or Florida (due to their accessibility for us).  We're just starting to venture out to "new" again.  Most of our previous "new" dated back to 2007 and before - 10 years old.  There are a couple of exceptions, but not many.  The economic downfall hit (us) in 2008 curtailing travel and then college expenses started in 2010.  Our youngest graduates this year.  ;)

 

We're contemplating Iguazu next, but it will probably be a few months.  My mom has terminal cancer.  This Jordan trip got tucked in because youngest is here.  I'm glad we kept it on our schedule, but other trips will probably wait a few months as I enjoy time with her.

[creekland]

I love Petra. It's so nice when a place you've wanted to go exceeds your expectations.

 

We're planning on going to next largest Nabatean city soon.  It's in Saudi Arabia and therefore has almost no visitors.

 

Nothing else in Jordan topped Petra for me either.  I'

 

Definitely update when you can...

[FaithManor]

And the camels???? :D

[maize]

I'm so glad you made it out, Petra is truly an exceptional place.

 

When I was there on an archeology dig we were excavating both Nabatean and Natufian (prehistoric culture) sites right next to each other. People have lived in Petra for a very long time.

Edited October 13, 2017 by maize

[Ausmumof3]

I'm super jealous. I've always wanted to go there since I had a dream about the place when I was like 13 or so. So glad you got to go, and thanks so much for sharing your experience here with us.

[....]

We enjoyed Jerash (ruins) 

 

I'm trying to remember, but I think it was Jerash where they said the structures are starting to sway...  We didn't have a guide, but there were guards there that day and they were telling me about it.  I *think* it was Jerash...  I could actually see the columns swaying.

 

Qu'asr Albint is cool, too.  There's a local legend about how the king's daughter couldn't keep up with his army, so he stopped and had a castle built to house her.  Not sure if I'm remembering the details correctly. 

[mommyoffive]

Me too.  I had expectations from what I knew via word of mouth and documentaries.  Seeing it in person - actually being here and filling in the mental map - exceeded those expectations.

 

We enjoyed Jerash (ruins) and Aljun (castle) up near Amman too - and Shobak (castle) on the way here - but get a guide for that last one as there are no signs explaining much.  There are in Jerash and Aljun.  Karak was nice too, but we should have hired a guide there (didn't know that at the time) and it's supposedly on the "red flag" list from our state dept (shrug), so one can stick to the others.

 

Tomorrow we'll be out at Wadi Rum (Wadi means Valley and Rum means Sand).  This is the place they've filmed many movies including Lawrence of Arabia and The Martian, etc.  But I don't know if that can top Petra for me.  I'm sure it will add to the trip in general.

 

That has been true for me of everywhere we have gone.   

[Seasider]

Happy for you and your wonderful adventure!

 

But I must confess, jealous!!! Petra's on my bucket list.

[creekland]

And the camels???? :D

 

That will be today at Wadi Rum.  We just got up.  :coolgleamA:

 

My son tells me he loves riding the camels, so we shall see.  I know I wasn't impressed with my one and only donkey ride yesterday - small steps, thin critter, youngster tagging along behind trying to keep it moving quickly even up the steps  :glare: , and probably because of that, a donkey that would barge through people if they didn't move out of its way.  :cursing:

 

At this point, I'm content with ponies!

 

BUT... since I couldn't have done the Monastery or beyond without them, I appreciate the donkeys.  I just wish I'd been able to give it a carrot or something at the top instead of just getting off and having the youngster take it and the other two back down to get more riders.

 

Must say... those donkey drivers (all young lads) are certainly in shape!  They remind me of Sherpas, except the only thing they carry is a whip.  They go up and down those stairs like it's nothing though.

 

I'm so glad you made it out, Petra is truly an exceptional place.

 

When I was there on an archeology dig we were excavating both Nabatean and Natufian (prehistoric culture) sites right next to each other. People have lived in Petra for a very long time.

 

We saw one of the trails that headed to the Natufian excavation in the guidebook.  If I recall correctly it goes back 7500 years?  I wish we could spend more time here and do some of those, but my youngun only has Thurs-Sun off from school.  Thurs we can here via the two castles and Kings Highway.  Yesterday we did the main site of Petra.  Today he wants us to go to Wadi Rum - then back to Amman.  Sunday he wants to show us the Citadel, Jordan Museum, and... something else.  Monday he returns to school and we return to Qatar Airways (sigh).  This is just a 12 day trip for us (9 days in Jordan).  It seems way too short, but I need to get back to my mom.

 

Prior to Thursday hubby and I were exploring on our own (Jerash, Aljun) or in the evenings with our son around Amman.  One night the family took us to their farm near the Dead Sea for a BBQ (grilled meat and fresh fruit from their trees - dates, oranges, etc).  That was really, really nice.

 

Otherwise, we're missing the Dead Sea.  I had hoped to get a float in that, but there just isn't time.

 

I'm super jealous. I've always wanted to go there since I had a dream about the place when I was like 13 or so. So glad you got to go, and thanks so much for sharing your experience here with us.

 

It's been a place I've dreamed of going to since I first heard about it sometime back in my high school days too.  I'm now 50 and that dream has happened.  I hope you get to go too!

 

I'm trying to remember, but I think it was Jerash where they said the structures are starting to sway...  We didn't have a guide, but there were guards there that day and they were telling me about it.  I *think* it was Jerash...  I could actually see the columns swaying.

 

Qu'asr Albint is cool, too.  There's a local legend about how the king's daughter couldn't keep up with his army, so he stopped and had a castle built to house her.  Not sure if I'm remembering the details correctly. 

 

Interesting.  We didn't notice that about the columns.  Now I'm curious!

 

We saw what was left of the castle.  Seems like a pretty darn nice "bedroom" in its day!  :lol:

 

That has been true for me of everywhere we have gone.   

 

Mostly it's true for us.  There have been a few places I wish we'd skipped though as they just aren't "us."  Las Vegas comes to mind as topping the list, but at least we now know what it's like personally.

 

In general, we've morphed to mostly skipping cities in favor of things like National Parks, though often it's a little like this trip where we start in a city (if we must) and branch out.

[mommyoffive]

totally agree with you on Vegas.  I had no interest in going there ever.  Not my seen.  We stopped there as a stop on a road trip through national parks.  Not impressed at all.  

 

 

[creekland]

And the camels???? :D

 

Well... we liked the camels.  They need work on comfortable saddle design, but camels themselves?  Not bad.  I prefer my ponies (or horses), but they wouldn't do so well in the desert I expect.  I'll take a camel over a donkey any day!  Except again, I doubt a camel could do those steps safely...  each critter designed for a purpose I suppose.  Well, then man created mules to try to improve on donkeys I think!

 

 

totally agree with you on Vegas.  I had no interest in going there ever.  Not my seen.  We stopped there as a stop on a road trip through national parks.  Not impressed at all.  

 

We were told we HAD to see Vegas - that we would be so impressed with the lights, etc.  Yeah, to this day we wish we had spent an extra night or two in Death Valley instead.  That's far more our speed.  We ended up taking one of our "Vegas" days to fly to the Grand Canyon, then helicopter down to the bottom of it on a Havasupai Indian tour.  Then we continued on to the Grand Canyon via car and enjoyed it again.  I don't remember the specific order of parks we did, but on that trip I seem to recall Bryce being our favorite overall.  Zion and Mesa Verde were cool too - and Chaco.

 

Tons of terrific memories.

 

We truly love the line in my sig that says "We travel not to escape life, but that life does not escape us."

 

But still, we're nature lovers first, "old" history lovers next.  Modern cities or shopping?  Not at all.  Our host's daughter here (in her 20s) asked us what we thought of downtown Amman.  "Isn't it beautiful?"  "Sure," we said to be polite, but quite honestly if one covered up the words (different language) and didn't look too closely at the pictures in the advertisements it could be any city in the US.  Even many of the chain restaurants are the same.  Eh, who wants to travel to see that?  (I'm sure some do - and that's ok, but not us.)

[mommyoffive]

Totally agree.   I am a nature lover at heart.  On our last trip it was neat to see all the history in Rome for sure ( and all the other cities we visited in each country).  But it wasn't a trip that was on my bucket list.  It was dh's number one. 

 

National parks are my place.   Cities are not. 

Edited October 14, 2017 by mommyoffive

[creekland]

Totally agree.   I am a nature lover at heart.  On our last trip it was neat to see all the history in Rome for sure ( and all the other cities we visited in each country).  But it wasn't a trip that was on my bucket list.  It was dh's number one. 

 

National parks are my place.   Cities are not. 

 

History is fun too.  Today we were at The Citadel in Amman.  History there goes back 7500 years.  All of Jordan is rich with history including much of it from Biblical days (Ammonites, Moabites, Edomites, Assyrians, Romans, and more).  It's still really awesome (for us) to be staring at carvings and antiquities that folks made thousands of years ago.  We've been pondering what they'd think now if they knew they'd be on display eons later. ("You found that one??? Why not one of my better ones?"  I buried that one because it had flaws!   :lol: )

 

We went to the Jordan Museum only to find out it's closed for 2 weeks.   :glare:   Bummer.

 

We could have used another week or two here to do more than we'd love to do, but alas, my son's break ends tomorrow so he'll head off to class and we'll head off to the airport.  We have one more night to spend with his family.  He has another couple of months to explore.

 

It's been really, really worth it for all of us.  I highly recommend Jordan for the traveler who wants to explore and who isn't put off by the language differences.  (If one is, there are still bus tours of all sorts.)  We were fortunate to have my son here.  Every single person we came in contact with (cab drivers, guides, folks we asked questions of) were 100% thrilled to hear him speak Arabic, even moreso after asking where he was from and hearing "America."  They've been incredibly helpful and pleasant to be with. They're wonderful human beings just like most other places we've traveled to.

 

(Now if they would just clean up their garbage that's strewn all over and quit smoking... but such is life.)

[FaithManor]

Green eyed monster of jealousy eating me up!!

 

At least we will be in Egypt this December. But I very much want to go to Jordan now!

[FaithManor]

 

 

They've been incredibly helpful and pleasant to be with. They're wonderful human beings just like most other places we've traveled to.

 

(Now if they would just clean up their garbage that's strewn all over and quit smoking... but such is life.)

This is what we have experienced as well! And yes, cleaning up the trash and giving up smoking. I wish that would happen for their sakes. Lots of issues with that in Southern Egypt as well.

[creekland]

Green eyed monster of jealousy eating me up!!

 

At least we will be in Egypt this December. But I very much want to go to Jordan now!

 

Jordan is very worth it if one loves history and/or geology.  I'll admit we're debating a return trip (probably in a couple of years) to see what we missed (Dead Sea, Aqaba, more castles, other trails at Petra).  The family we're with has said if we come back, we're definitely welcome to stay with them again, so it's quite tempting, esp if youngest wants a reminisce trip and can take time off from wherever he's working.  

[mommyoffive]

Oh I hope you get to go back.   Nice if you get to stay with them.  Makes for a cheap trip

 

I hope you share pictures when you get home. 

[creekland]

Oh I hope you get to go back. Nice if you get to stay with them. Makes for a cheap trip

 

I hope you share pictures when you get home.

The family insists we need to return in May when Jordan is pretty from Spring instead of dry and desert from the hot summer. We will see. This May youngest graduates, so that's in our plans at least.

 

I'll admit I picked up an Eco-Jordan brochure advertising quite a few nature trips. It looks very appealing and is totally different than what we have done so far. We saw a hyena in the wild, but there appear to be more critters we can look for...

 

Pictures are tough to put on the Hive because they have to be on the internet and FB doesn't work. I might be able to get some on Photobucket if that still works - or I'm open to other suggestions if anyone has them.

[mommyoffive]

Is your son there for the year? 

[FaithManor]

The family insists we need to return in May when Jordan is pretty from Spring instead of dry and desert from the hot summer. We will see. This May youngest graduates, so that's in our plans at least.

 

I'll admit I picked up an Eco-Jordan brochure advertising quite a few nature trips. It looks very appealing and is totally different than what we have done so far. We saw a hyena in the wild, but there appear to be more critters we can look for...

 

Pictures are tough to put on the Hive because they have to be on the internet and FB doesn't work. I might be able to get some on Photobucket if that still works - or I'm open to other suggestions if anyone has them.

Whoa. Wait.

 

Mind boggling. He graduates!

 

Gah, that makes my eldest boy a junior. Okay, I knew that. Right. It's just that your announcement here made it seem that much worse. I swear it really truly does not take 365 days to orbit the sun, and somebody in NASA had better get with the program and do the research because the calendar is WAY off!

 

About pictures. I would love to upload some here, but they have to be so small, and I can't seem to downsize them enough. The Nile at night is gorgeous, and I'd LOVE to see your Jordan pics!

[creekland]

Is your son there for the year? 

 

He's just in Jordan for the semester (taking four classes) - returns a couple of days before Christmas.  He graduates from Eckerd (in FL) in May.  We currently have our reservations in St Pete Beach for graduation time.  Whether we can afford to take a trip immediately afterward or not is yet to be seen.  It could make a nice graduation gift, but it certainly wouldn't be inexpensive and would pull from any other trip we might want to do that year (Iguazu?).  I also have to see if my mom is still with us and how she's doing.

[Amira]

This part of the world really is completely different in the spring. It is as dead and dry as can be right now. Jordan is wonderful in May.

[FaithManor]

Creekland, I don't blame you for making your graduation reservations so far in advance. If youngest ds chooses MTU or NMU, we have to have reservations for move in day several months in advance because there are more people coming out of town than there are hotels, cabins, Air BnB, and camping for. Both schools - only two hours apart and in the U.P. - have the same freshman move in weekend historically, and often the same graduation!

 

It's nuts!

 

We won't know where he is going to land until the financial awards are finalized, and March is too late to get a room for move in day. So I have booked one already in Marquette, and thankfully it is refundable. If he lands at MTU, we will still only be a two hour drive out instead of the 9.5 hours it is from home, so the room near Northern will still work.

 

Off topic, I know. But ya....college move in, college graduation...crazy times! LOL

 

Now back on topic, it would be wonderful if you did a kind of one post, succinct review of the hotels, restaurants, airline, etc. A nice quick, Rick Steves kind of thing so if any of us ever have a chance to go, we have some ideas of where to stay, tours to take, quality of air travel, customs....talk us through customs and immigration.

 

 

[creekland]

Now back on topic, it would be wonderful if you did a kind of one post, succinct review of the hotels, restaurants, airline, etc. A nice quick, Rick Steves kind of thing so if any of us ever have a chance to go, we have some ideas of where to stay, tours to take, quality of air travel, customs....talk us through customs and immigration.

 

Well... I'm in Doha (Qatar) now for another 4-5 hours (of a 10 hour layover since we're cheap and didn't want to pay an extra $400 per person for our airfare. ;)  It hasn't been a bad layover at all.  Doha's airport is superb - super modern - super nice.  I see signs bragging about how they are only the 6th airport to win some sort of 5 star award and I can believe it.  I'd easily book through here again.

 

And those inexpensive airfares were with Qatar Airways.  I was wondering if we'd get what we paid for (cheap), but no.  They are a super highly rated airline that flies to oodles of places worldwide and has a fleet of young, very updated airplanes.  Even on our 2 1/2 hour flight that started at 1:15pm and ended at 3:45pm, they served us a full tasty lunch with real silverware (we're Economy Class).  On our 12+ hour flight they serve three full tasty meals (choices available with these), several drinks, and a snack.  They also offer individual cleaning cloths (nice quality) and socks if folks want them.  We are seriously contemplating joining their frequent flier program.

 

I found their commercial on YouTube.  Needless to say, we love their philosophy.

 

 

Customs from the US (and probably Canada, but check on it) is super easy.  One gets off the plane in Amman, exchanges money (currently 1JOD = just 71cents USD, so be wary of the exchange when calculating costs).  You choose between "something to declare" or "nothing to declare" lines.  We chose the latter.  Then one pays $40JOD for a Visa, after which one gets shifted to the next person over for Customs (maybe three steps away).  The gentleman I had asked me my name, what I was there for - didn't understand what I said at all - so asked again, still didn't seem to understand, but used his intuition to ascertain that I wasn't likely to be a terrorist and stamped the passport.  Bags get scanned via machine, you pick them up, and are on your way.

 

Otherwise, I can't add too much since we stayed with our son's host family (not an option for others) and they cooked most of our meals for us (extremely tasty).  Taxis are easily available right out the front door of the airport.  My son met us and guided us to his place, but I'm sure the taxi drivers know the hotels well.

 

There are several trip options to be found on the internet or one can take taxis and see things themselves.  We opted to hire drivers for further things (Jerash, Aljun, to Petra via the Kings Highway, & back from Petra via Wadi Rum with a 4x4 ride seeing the desert (quite fun - though now we MUST watch The Martian again since we chose that film site) and riding the camel).  We took taxis to things in Amman like The Citadel, the Souk, Jordan University, and Rainbow Street.  Taxis tend to be cheap - we often paid more because it seemed too cheap for the drivers to make a living... unemployment rate is something like 18%.  For the more bargain traveler, one can take a nice bus to Petra for far less than a driver, but they'll take you via the Desert Highway which isn't nearly as interesting (to us) as the King's Highway.  It is far quicker though.

 

We picked our hotel in Petra by reviews and location and now highly recommend the Edom Hotel!  Staff were all superb.  Beds and the room itself were comfy and modern (have power adapters though).  Breakfast (free buffet) had many options.  Then one is just two tenths of a mile from the entrance to Petra's Entrance.  It's SO NICE to be that close when one is finished with the day.  Our cost for a triple room (three single beds) was $62+/-USD per night with all fees added - a mere $120 or so for two nights.  One would pay much more at most places in the US.  In Petra we just picked one of the buffet restaurants for 10JOD per person.  It was ok - again - many options, but admittedly, the home cooked food we had with youngest son's place was tastier.  We didn't go to Petra for the food though, so all was fine.

 

The other restaurants we ate at were picked by our drivers (only one was way overpriced, but I can't recall the name (sorry!).  It was along the Desert Highway and in retrospect we'd have asked to eat at one of the more local places near the castles we visited.  My son had us eat at a place he frequents near Jordan University too - it's in a food court area many students use.  That was tasty and very inexpensive.

 

Not everyone in Jordan knows English and many of those who do, know some, but not a lot.  Around tourist areas (like Petra), knowledge is common.  With taxi drivers, some do, some don't.  It can help to have destinations in writing (or on a phone).  Even when they don't understand the language, everyone we met was super helpful and trying to make a good impression.  There are oodles of tourist languages here.  English has not been the most common we've heard.  Many tourists are European.  Still, signs in tourist areas are in English as it's a "common" world language.  Arabic is also used on signs, of course.  No English speaker will feel out of place in Petra. If desired elsewhere, sign up for bus tours or private drivers who are also English speaking guides.

 

One other tidbit for Petra.  It costs 50JOD per person for one day (only 55JOD for two days) IF it's not your first day in the country, so schedule it later in your trip.  It's either 90 or 100JOD if done as a day trip (from Israel this is common) or if on the first day of your trip.  Essentially, they give tourists a break if they are spending more time/money in the country.

 

In hindsight, I'd have used more guides at historical sites.  We started doing this at Shobak Castle (they're needed there - no signs), but also did it at the Citadel.  The guide tells a bit more history than one can get from the signs alone.  They are licensed by the government and need to pass tests to get that license, so it's not just an "anyone can do this" job.  They know their history and the language one chooses.

 

We were in Jordan for 9 days, but feel we barely started to touch the surface of what the country has to offer.  I only learned about their Eco-tours focusing on nature in the cab on the way back to the airport!  We missed more castles, churches (saw one with an old mosaic), multiple Biblical sites I'd like to see, the Dead Sea, Aqaba for snorkeling or diving, and evidently, springtime - then the nature part.

 

Dress modestly (because practically everyone else does), but jeans/khakis (even for women) are fine.  I kept a light sweater with me to put on over my short sleeved shirt when it seemed we were in more modest places.  I'm wearing it now in Doha too. We don't mind bending to local culture, but one doesn't need a dress/or long skirt or similar in this country.  Head covering is not recommended unless one is Muslim.  There are plenty of Christians here - and just plain "people," so we females without head coverings are not out of place.  Our host family is Muslim, but the three females in it (mom and two adult daughters) did not wear head coverings either.  Others choose to do so.  It's all ok.

 

In Petra, dress isn't as critical, but remember most tourists are not American so shorts are rare and T-shirts even more rare. Sneakers are fine - even recommended due to the walking in Petra.  Even so, I doubt anyone will say anything unless one happened to go into some sort of really conservative area. People here are too polite.

 

We have never once encountered anyone the least bit mean (and my son understands Arabic, so if folks were talking about us, he'd know).  We've found a lot of curiosity about America and many people eager to have tourists come to enjoy their land and treasures.  They hate ISIS as much as we do, and we've gotten apologies for it.  In turn, we've apologized for how many Americans feel about "The Middle East," blanketing them with the news.  Yes, there are wars in other countries - Jordan has taken in countless refugees - one of youngest's host sisters volunteers with Syrian children.  Our family didn't recommend visiting Syria or Iraq... (sadly, because they love Syria).  But short of the type of terrorism that can happen in Orlando or Las Vegas or Paris or London, The Hashemite Kingdom of Jordan is a safe, proud, wonderful country (with too much trash strewn about along the highways and a pretty high smoking rate).

 

It's very worth visiting IME.  The history one can feel here is incredible.

Edited October 17, 2017 by creekland