Jump to content

Menu

What is the secret to one-coat painting??


Moxie
 Share

Recommended Posts

We bought a "new" house and pretty much every room needs painting. I have NEVER in my life been able to make a room look good with one coat of paint. Am I buying the wrong kind? I use whatever the guy at Lowe's sells me (Behr or Valspar, primer+paint in one, about $34/gallon). Am I putting it on wrong? I use cheap rollers and a pretty expensive brush for cutting in. I hate cutting in and I stink at it; which painters tape is best??

 

Bring on all your best painting tips!!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You basically do two coats at once. You have to use a.cross hatching technique, then go back over with a smooth roll top to bottom. I cross hatch over about 5feet, then go back with a smooth roll. There are generally a few little spots that need a touch more paint, bit never a full second coat.

 

Cross hatching: paint at diagonals, crossing over your own strokes. Diagonal to the right a few strokes and then.back to the left. While the paint is wet you get a basket weave look. Do a good size section, then a quick smoothing stroke over the top.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Switch to Aura by Benjamin Moore. It's thicker than other paints and covers like a dream. I have gotten away with only one coat of that brand, but have always needed a second coat of other brands (even the other types of Benjamin Moore paint.) It also has NO ODOR, which is wonderful.

 

It's pricey, but it ends up costing less in the long run because it covers better and requires fewer coats.

 

The Aura primer is excellent, too, if you need any of that. You can have it tinted to the same shade as your final paint color, and it covers almost as well as "real" paint, not like a lot of the primers which seem to go on almost like water.

 

Also, buy better rollers and make sure they're on the fluffy side. The super-cheap, skimpy ones don't seem to hold enough paint. (But you don't need the really expensive ones, either -- I tried them and didn't see much of a difference, if any, than when I used the moderately priced ones.)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Don't get fooled by the paint & primer in one - it's thick and goopy, and when I did dd's bedroom it dried lumpy and needed three coats. Later I mentioned it to my uncle who works at Lowe's, and he laughed and said never buy that stuff, in any brand (I had used Ace, but he said Lowes is just as bad). If you need a primer, get it tinted similar to your paint, and wait before painting over it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Some things that have worked well for me (note: I still do primer and one coat of paint at a minimum):

  • Tinted primer. Go with either gray primer or a color that's similar to the color you're painting the room.
  • Blue painter's tape. After putting down the tape, run a putty knife over it to press it down for a good seal.
  • Paint conditioner. Using a paint conditioner (such as Floetrol) slows down the drying time and evens out the paint, making it easier to get an even coverage without visible lap marks/brush strokes (which can reduce the number of coats needed).
  • Do one wall at a time. When you completely finish one wall before moving on to the next, your brushed paint (corners/trim) and rolled paint blend together better than if you do all the corners/trim first, let them dry, and then go back and use the paint roller.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm stunned by the replies. I've painted every room in my house with a paint and primer in one mix. The only room that required two coats was the living room, and I think that's because it's a shade of red. The rest of the house was beautiful in one coat (and I haven't even had to touch it up in over two years).

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm stunned by the replies. I've painted every room in my house with a paint and primer in one mix. The only room that required two coats was the living room, and I think that's because it's a shade of red. The rest of the house was beautiful in one coat (and I haven't even had to touch it up in over two years).

 

Same here. Dh complains that I put it on too thick. That's why I paint while he's at work. ;-P

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hmmm.... We hire professional painters because I am terrible at painting. We had our whole first floor done a few years ago. They did it all with one coat. Even the dark red color I have in one room. I was skeptical when the owner of the company did the quote and said they would probably do it in one coat. Even more so because he makes more money the longer this guys are here..... But he was right. They did it all in one coat and I cannot see any flaws. And that was using Harmony Paint (low fume) from Sherwin Williams. The owner was reluctant to use it because he never had before and did not know for sure how it would behave....which is why he was not sure they could get away with one coat.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The only paint we've done one coat and been successful has been BM Aura. We love it. Read the instructions though, as application is a bit different than other paint. It is a bit pricey, but you also need less of it. It is quite durable, scrubbable, self-levels small drips, so great for families.

 

edited to add that while I think a paint "warranty" is pretty much useless, SW says you must use two coats to have the paint warrantied.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have never just painted one coat on anything in over 30 years of painting. ( Dad has a remodeling company, we worked as teens.) It just takes 2 coats. If it isn't flat paint, make sure to cover a whole wall and cut it too before moving to another, the sheen is different on egg shell, and gloss paints. I hate, hate, HATE anything but flat. LOL Clean up on the others paints is easier though. I always buy an extra gallon of flat for my own house, so I can touch up as needed.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 year later...

I've painted several rooms with one coat, with these factors in common: light color over another light color, good quality paint in matte or eggshell, and careful technique with a small (6") roller with thick pile.

 

Two days ago I painted a yellow bathroom off-white (Swiss Coffee) using Behr's Premium Plus Ultra paint, and a very thick roller designed for "semi-smooth to semi-rough walls." It covered perfectly in one coat; the only place I needed to go over again was a small area between the cabinet and the door, where I had to get into a really skinny space with a brush. (The walls had the standard "splatter texture" you see in a lot of newer houses; that particular roller probably would have left somewhat of a "roller texture" on perfectly smooth walls.) I have also painted one coat of off-white over beige, and one coat of light gray over off-white, using Benjamin Moore Regal Matte and a thinner pile microfiber roller (also 6") on lightly textured walls, and I have painted bright blue (Behr Premium Plus Ultra) over dark tan and only needed to touch up some areas with a second coat — I'm pretty sure I could have gotten away with one coat if I'd used a smaller, thicker roller.

 

Here's why I prefer a short roller with thick pile:

 

(1) It eliminates almost all cutting in at the corners, and if I'm painting the ceiling the same color, it eliminates cutting in between the the walls and ceiling, because I can get the roller right up to the edge and into the corner. It eliminates the need to use a brush in a lot of small areas, like above doors or windows, and sometimes I will even use a 4" roller for those areas if they're particularly small. And even in places where I can't eliminate the cutting in (like right up against a window or door frame or baseboard), I can get very very close, so I only need to cut in a very thin line up against the woodwork. I never tape window or door frames or most other woodwork; I use a special angled brush with a rubber handle that I can hold like a pencil, so I can get a very straight, controlled line. Occasionally, if it seems less time consuming to tape the baseboard vs cutting it in, I will tape it and then just roller right up against it. I find it easier to get full coverage with a thick roller vs a brush, so maximizing the area I can paint with a roller minimizes the need for a 2nd coat.

 

(2) With a small (4"-6") microfiber or high-pile roller, I can just "lay" the paint on the wall instead of pushing it around. I find that with a standard 9" roller, with thinner pile, people tend to load the roller with more than it can really hold, stick it on the wall, and then try to roll a large area, so they end up really squeezing the paint out of the roller at the edges of the area they're working on. This leads to uneven coverage (thick where the roller first hits the wall and thin when it's being squeezed) as well as ridges and drips. A smaller, thicker roller holds the right amount of paint to evenly cover a smaller area, so I never end up trying to squeeze the last bits out. It means more dips in the paint tray, and more trips up & down the ladder, but IMHO it provides a much better finish, and if it saves me a whole second coat it's more time efficient — and cost-effective— in the long run.

 

ETA regarding drying time... most modern paints are dry within a couple of hours; when I've needed a second coat, I can usually start it as soon as the first coat is finished. I can paint even a pretty large room, with two coats, in about 8 hours. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share

×
×
  • Create New...